i've been reading some older threads and i see a lot of people advising to get motor mounts installed with headers. i know it will help the y-pipe banging. but i'll be going to a shop for the header install and i want to know if it will add much to the labor. for example, switching the spark plugs out during the header install shouldn't add much to the labor since they're basically there already, right? is it the same thing with the motor mounts or should i expect to pay a lot more to do that job at the same time?

 

I am doing this project as we speak. I could see that being true for spark plugs...but motor mounts are still quite a bit beyond removing manifolds/headers. I would think it would not save you more than 50% of the normal labor costs for motor mounts. And 50% savings would be a steal.

My opinion is do the motor mounts along with headers even if it only saves you 25%. Good luck.

 

i'm from va. beach too! are you doing this yourself or having a shop do it? can you recommend a shop in our area for that job? or would you like to earn some extra money?

 

it would be more along the lines of having the motor mounts done = $x.xx and having the manifolds replaced at the same time wouldn't cost much more.

headers, motor mounts, and spark plugs are a good thing to do at the same time. The labor effort is similar for each one.

 

i see, i see.

(other thread deleted )

 

Getting #8plugwire on #8 coil . Hardest part in my install
With a lift up disconnect the ac /alternator . ahh access ..remove one mount install poly inserts tightner up ,on to the other side once thats done start sliding in the headers ..lift down.. start runnin header bolts .lift back up.. put back ac/alternator..lift back down .. install plugs, wires ,lid assembly that was a quick run down of the job but it was a lot of up and down

 

Professor. Sorry I haven't checked this thread in awhile. Between motor mounts and headers, with a buddy for 90% of the time, I spent about 35 hours on this. I have a closed in garage and some nice tools (air compressor was huge). However, I didn't have an engine hoist or lift. Things to consider when talking about how much labor you'd pay.
I am deploying in mid Jan so spending anymore time in the garage, even if I were making a buck, my wife would kill me. I would be happy to help when I get back in the summer. As for a shop in the area....call DTP (dyno tuned performance) chesapeake. I did a dyno day with them a couple weeks ago and they seemed like good guys. Shop I used for my springs was A to Z auto in VA Beach. They would not give a quote over the phone though...then I decided to do it on my own.

 

no problem man. a fellow ls1tech-er offered to help whenever i get all the parts in order. i'll be getting qtps as well. is their ORY as shitty as everyone says? i may just get a custom ORY if i can find a place.

 

I did not think their ORY is shitty. But I just finished install an hour ago and haven't driven yet. I still need new air tubes. I have a 98 with 01/02 headers.

 

i wouldnt change your motor mounts unless you are running a big nasty cam.

 

IF you replace the engine mounts do the trans also .

 

When I got my Pacesetter LTs I had lots of header thumping going on when accelerating. I got prothane motor mounts-problem solved Got tranny mount and bushing for stock torque arm while I was at it.

 

Most definatly get the mounts swapped out. Poly mounts are great, and most people report LESS vibration. The stockers are weak, plus you'll really wish you had them when you toss in a T-Rex later on. My friend has a 230/236 in his car with stock mounts, you'd think the manifold was going to hit the cowl while it's idling.




^^^ Bad advice. ^^^

 

I replace mine while I was did my heads. The driver side was still a pain in the ***!!! The passenger side was a piece of cake.

 

I changed my mounts out when I did my headers too. I personally think it's a good idea. Swap 'em out and don't worry about 'em again.

 

is it even easier when the heads and cam is out and all

Erik