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Ebay Header "S" Mod, how to?

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:55 AM
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Default Ebay Header "S" Mod, how to?

I know this is a touchy subject, i only need the tech advise on how to take on the challange of the drivers side header and its angle,,,and the "S" thing i keep seeing in the posts already submitted is what i really need to know. What is it, i gather its to conform, or go around something to do with the floor board. Please be cool with this topic so i can get my answer, and we dont get shut down. Thanx all!!!
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:17 PM
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the collector sit so tucked up and actually point slightly at the floorboard that when pipe is attached to the flange it has to be angled slightly downward to clear a part of the floorboard.... i guess we keep hearing of LT's that hang too low, now we have one that's tucked too high
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:55 PM
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My Kooks didn't hit the floorboard......



I believe the header would put the y-pipe into the fuel lines and the dreaded floorboard hump.
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 03:36 PM
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cool, but what is the "S" thing i keep reading about,,,,i think it is a pipe, going in a S shape to go around something or other along those lines? not sure though,,,i've also read where folks have put a "block" of steel or something between the header and the floorboard to prevent the banging.
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:22 PM
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here you go....

not neccessarily and "S" but it "dips" down...

Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:31 PM
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That is exactly what i needed to see,,thanx for the help!!!

Happy holidays!!!
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 05:00 PM
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oh so thats what everyone else is doing haha!!.... i just pie cut my header collector and welded it back together pointing a bit straighter and not towards the floorboard...
right where the primaries go into the collector i tooke a big v chunk out and bent it over and welded it to point straight back.. worked like a charm and made fabbing up my h pipe a lot easier... better groung clearance too
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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Heh...never though of that...looks like im takin um back to work haha, how much did you take out of the collector
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 05:49 PM
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I'd describe it as an offset down, but that's just my sheetmetal fabrication background speaking...lol
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:17 PM
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Here's mine:
Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RrCoX22
the collector sit so tucked up and actually point slightly at the floorboard that when pipe is attached to the flange it has to be angled slightly downward to clear a part of the floorboard.... i guess we keep hearing of LT's that hang too low, now we have one that's tucked too high
I knew that there would be some issues arise sooner or later.
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
I knew that there would be some issues arise sooner or later.
although it's an issue well worth it

....your a big promoter of "custom" pipes, so i don't matter
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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I didn't mean it in a bad way.


BTW: Keep this thread "clean". You guys know what I mean, so don't ask.
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 08:36 AM
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I think it would be more beneficial in fact to cut the collector and merge it downwards so that the pipe is once again straight, then you can fab (the y pipe) off of that.
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 08:43 AM
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That tiny bend is not going to harm anything. I would not cut the collector.
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Specialized
I think it would be more beneficial in fact to cut the collector and merge it downwards so that the pipe is once again straight, then you can fab (the y pipe) off of that.
Mehh.
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 04:41 PM
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To me, the options in order of MY preference are:
1. Cut the collector and reweld the way it should have been done originally.
2. Cut 3-4 inches off the end of the collector and just make a gentle slope off collecotr.
3. Make a tight turn down then out directly after the collector.

I didn't know about this issue when I put mine on, so it was too late for options 1 or 2 and had to go to a tight S turn. If I were to do another one, I would probably cut the collector short to make a gentle down slope instead of a tight turn directly after the header. I would prefer the first option, but I don't own a tig welder and to have everything done I would want done would have cost $150+ extra.

Galen
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 04:51 PM
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the "S" bend will not effect flow at all... why make more work for yourself when someone can just customize it for you either ways?
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 07:41 PM
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put mine on tonight....pretty easy, just had to cut that tab off the block(sawzall took about 15secs)....unfortunately the exhaust shops were closed....so shes running about 20in of pipe, sum bitch screams!..honestly its not that loud. my friends BB chevelle with full exhaust is still louder.
Old Dec 9, 2006 | 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SuperSlow02
put mine on tonight....pretty easy, just had to cut that tab off the block(sawzall took about 15secs)....unfortunately the exhaust shops were closed....so shes running about 20in of pipe, sum bitch screams!..honestly its not that loud. my friends BB chevelle with full exhaust is still louder.
congrats!

...gotta love runnin open pipes... although if your cammin' it's even better



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