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Need help on install

Old Dec 27, 2006 | 10:44 PM
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Default Need help on install

Im changing my intake to a Ls6 i have a 99 TA,i purchased this kit http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...e575a7214b5ab8 it says thats all i need for the istall.But is there suppossed to be one in the front and the back?I have my intake removed right know so i need help ASAP. thanks
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 10:51 PM
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Anyone
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 11:07 PM
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Some people are just using there stock LS1 coolant pipe and just grinding down the ribs in the bottom of the LS6 intake for clearance.

Reason ???.. better distribution of the steam/coolant from/to the back number 7 cyl. seem to be the most common reason.

As you can see you from the kit, you only get the front pipe and are supose to plug the rear ports.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bczee
Some people are just using there stock LS1 coolant pipe and just grinding down the ribs in the bottom of the LS6 intake for clearance.

Reason ???.. better distribution of the steam/coolant from/to the back number 7 cyl. seem to be the most common reason.

As you can see you from the kit, you only get the front pipe and are supose to plug the rear ports.
Ok so the rear gets plugedno lines at all right ?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 11:30 PM
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yes with that kit you plug the rear. I just did my swap last week. I kept my ls1 coolant lines.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 88zukon36s
yes with that kit you plug the rear. I just did my swap last week. I kept my ls1 coolant lines.
in what area or areas did you have to cut?
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by m1candelaa1
Ok so the rear gets plugedno lines at all right ?
Single crossover pipe in the front and plugs from your kit in the rear.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 12:51 AM
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The under side of the LS6 has cross ribs... line up your LS1 coolant pipe and grind down the ribs that will cause the Intake to now lower enough to seat the manifold correctly. Just grind the ribs to almost to the base only, no farther.

Do a seach on LS6 intake swap and there will be a lot of post with info on the swap. I remember one of the post had a picture. but i can't recall or find it right now.

good luck.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 02:42 AM
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Ok i just finished with install.When i started the car the needle from the oil gauge jumped all the way up past 80 does not move.Any idea what i could have done wrong???
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 01:09 PM
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Possibly pinched harness,broken, or un-connected oil pressure sensor. If your not careful, it's very easy to break off.

It's the small black cylinder just behind the intake. When removing the manifold the brake booster line can hook around it. If you pull and don't know, the sensor will crack at the base.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 06:43 PM
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I did nothis the cylinder,it is very loose turns in both directions.Is this normal or did i break it?
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 07:28 PM
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I'm going with broken. Shouldn't be "loose" in any way.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SSmokin 01
I'm going with broken. Shouldn't be "loose" in any way.
Does that mean my oil pump is not working?Or just the gauge not picking up the pressure,can i still drive it a day or two...
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 08:08 PM
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Oil pump is in the front and mechanically driven off the crank. You still have oil pressure, just cant read it due to the broken sender. Driving for a few days shouldn't be an issue.

Just be sure you don't have any oil leaks around the base of the sender. You shouldn't, but better to check and know.
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Old Dec 28, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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Thanks ill let you know what happens
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Old Dec 31, 2006 | 09:11 PM
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Would i be able to use an Autometer #4327 in place of the stock broken cylinder?
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Old Jan 2, 2007 | 10:50 PM
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TTT... same question
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