Relocating coils
#1
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Relocating coils
I wanted to see my valve covers and clean up the engine bay a little more so I moved my coils down under the car and mounted them under the radiator.
LT1 wires are NOT long enough here. However, I have seen LT1 plug wires reach if the coils are mounted on the frame rail.
I had to custom make my own set of wires. I used straight boots with standard plug ends for the spark plugs because I went "outside-in". In other words, I didn't want to run them under the headers. I reused the coil ends from the set of wires I removed because standard spark plug ends do NOT make contact at the coil. These ends are available too, I was just anxious to get done.
The lengths of each plug wire to cylinder #
51" - 8 7 - 44"
47" - 6 5 - 38"
45" - 4 3 - 36"
42" - 2 1 - 34"
On the driver side I routed over the sway bar and kept them between the frame and the fuel/brake lines.
On the passenger side I routed over the sway bar and then followed the AC lines. There is a nice "notch" to tuck the wires into.
Extending the wiring harness wiring is another animal. Just expose your wiring from the coil plug back thru the harness as far as you can and then cut and extend them. The pink and black wires require some thought since they don't go all the way to the PCM. Not too bad if you are proficient at soldering/heatshrinking and have the patience.
The pics...
Driver side
Passenger side notch/plug wires & harness wiring loom
Driver side routing behind fuel/brake lines
Passenger side again
Under car
Extended harness wiring bundle
I hope this helps out anyone who has been thinking of doing this.
LT1 wires are NOT long enough here. However, I have seen LT1 plug wires reach if the coils are mounted on the frame rail.
I had to custom make my own set of wires. I used straight boots with standard plug ends for the spark plugs because I went "outside-in". In other words, I didn't want to run them under the headers. I reused the coil ends from the set of wires I removed because standard spark plug ends do NOT make contact at the coil. These ends are available too, I was just anxious to get done.
The lengths of each plug wire to cylinder #
51" - 8 7 - 44"
47" - 6 5 - 38"
45" - 4 3 - 36"
42" - 2 1 - 34"
On the driver side I routed over the sway bar and kept them between the frame and the fuel/brake lines.
On the passenger side I routed over the sway bar and then followed the AC lines. There is a nice "notch" to tuck the wires into.
Extending the wiring harness wiring is another animal. Just expose your wiring from the coil plug back thru the harness as far as you can and then cut and extend them. The pink and black wires require some thought since they don't go all the way to the PCM. Not too bad if you are proficient at soldering/heatshrinking and have the patience.
The pics...
Driver side
Passenger side notch/plug wires & harness wiring loom
Driver side routing behind fuel/brake lines
Passenger side again
Under car
Extended harness wiring bundle
I hope this helps out anyone who has been thinking of doing this.
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Originally Posted by kyles2000z
ive never thought about relocating them there, thats nice. but arent the coil packs gonna get SOAKED now?
that's my first reaction. i really want to do this, but dont want to extend the harness. wouldnt under the cowl be a better place? or the shock towers?
EDIT- you have sexy valve covers
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I dont know if it makes that much of a difference to even be noticed but doesnt electricity lose voltage the longer the wire? I used to be into radio controlled cars and some of the pro racers told me that when i set up my chassis to make my wires as short and simple as possible.
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#11
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That is badass. I am about to relocate my coils, and already have the wires/terminals/crimper. I was going to do it under the cowl, but I think I may do something like this, somewhere down low. Thanks for posting up the pictures and details!
PS - Do you have any more pics of how the coils are attached to each other? What kind of stuff did you use?
PS - Do you have any more pics of how the coils are attached to each other? What kind of stuff did you use?
#12
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I guess I'll keep you posted then, whether it is moisture, a curb, or wire length and voltage issues. If it comes to any of these I'll move them to the frame rail and have a great excuse to get the MSD coils. I thought about the cowl mount but the main idea was to hide as much as possible, just like the fenderwell wiring and hood release cable.
TheBlurLS1 - I'll get you a better pic. The coils are turned so the mounting holes in the coils line up. The brackets are made out of bent metal stock, threaded stock runs thru the coil mounting holes and a metal sleeve cut as spacers.
nut-washer-bracket-spacer-coil-spacer-coil-spacer-coil-spacer-coil-spacer-bracket-washer-nut.
TheBlurLS1 - I'll get you a better pic. The coils are turned so the mounting holes in the coils line up. The brackets are made out of bent metal stock, threaded stock runs thru the coil mounting holes and a metal sleeve cut as spacers.
nut-washer-bracket-spacer-coil-spacer-coil-spacer-coil-spacer-coil-spacer-bracket-washer-nut.
#14
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I dont think water would be an issue because its right behind the airdam. Now standing water is a different story. I dont think its a big issue with having longer wires. While no as long as these, the C5/6-R's both had them mounted at the front of the motor.
I think it looks good. Have any pics of the whole engine bay from the top?
I think it looks good. Have any pics of the whole engine bay from the top?
#15
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The resistance put up by longer plug wires is not enough to worry about, especially when we have a coil on each plug. The old cap-n-distributor motors had pretty long wires, and probably less power to the cap than our cars, and they run fine.
They are waterproof/weatherproof and will probably be fine as long as you don't park them under water lol.
They are waterproof/weatherproof and will probably be fine as long as you don't park them under water lol.
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Originally Posted by presto_z
looks good.. why did u decide to move them upfront and lower instead of under the cowl... just curious