Coolant crossover pipe
I know the LS6 composite manifolds you need tog rind down the ribs to sue the ls1 lines or use the ls6 lines. you dont NEED the ls6 lines if you dont wanna mess with them. and i still havent seen no damn LS6 metal intake
** OHHHH now I know what the hell youre talking about lol I had forgot about the z06 manifold being metal. Im not sure if you need them on it or not
** OHHHH now I know what the hell youre talking about lol I had forgot about the z06 manifold being metal. Im not sure if you need them on it or not
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Joined: Jun 2003
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Don't know where the thread is but there is some discussion that it's not a bad idea and certainly won't hurt to keep the rear coolant lines due the fact that the # 7 hole always running hotter. Some have suggested that this might be why the #7 detonates faster and burns the piston (steam pockets - cooler is always better).
I don't want to start a debate- just that origin of the thread was information gleaned from a GMC engine tech site.
It makes sense - why block off something that GM installed? Bean counters that they are - they don't engineer, design, and install stuff unless it's needed.
The lines are evidently there for a purpose. Next time I pull the manifold I'm going to request that the installer re-attach the rear coolant lines - my motor is ATI charged.
I don't want to start a debate- just that origin of the thread was information gleaned from a GMC engine tech site.
It makes sense - why block off something that GM installed? Bean counters that they are - they don't engineer, design, and install stuff unless it's needed.
The lines are evidently there for a purpose. Next time I pull the manifold I'm going to request that the installer re-attach the rear coolant lines - my motor is ATI charged.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Feb 7, 2007 at 02:07 PM.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: So.Cal.
If you get 2 front pipes, install one in front and one in back, run hoses from each to a Y (run the hoses on the outside, next to the valve covers), and then run another hose from the Y to the radiator...
this will give you two steam paths and no need to grind the bottom of the intake.
this will give you two steam paths and no need to grind the bottom of the intake.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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I don't think you do need to buy any parts - just grind clearance on the composite manifold and keep the coolant lines attached.
Here are some pics of the lines - Lingenfelter calls the Weind Manifold an LS6 Manifold and its metal.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/.../199R10267.pdf
Here are some pics of the lines - Lingenfelter calls the Weind Manifold an LS6 Manifold and its metal.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/.../199R10267.pdf
the part numbers you are looking for is 12602544, some guys buy the plugs for the back and some guys run a second "front" coolant pipe on the back as well, either run it up to the tube to the front or block it off, this way you'll still get coolant by cylinders 7 and 8
and the difference is that your coolant pipes now look like an I and what the ls6 style looks like is
. .
__ with the two dots at the back of the motor symbolizing plugs and the line is the cross over tube 12602544
and the difference is that your coolant pipes now look like an I and what the ls6 style looks like is
. .
__ with the two dots at the back of the motor symbolizing plugs and the line is the cross over tube 12602544
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE011.jpg 2 front 2001+ coolant lines vs stock 1998-2000
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg Pull off the hose for the rear one and cap it.
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE015.jpg problem solved
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/630983-will-ls6-coolant-tube-conversion-hurt-cooling-system-performance.html
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE013.jpg Pull off the hose for the rear one and cap it.
http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/geniii...//IMAGE015.jpg problem solved
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/630983-will-ls6-coolant-tube-conversion-hurt-cooling-system-performance.html
