Syxx613

iTrader: (8)

hey guys im going to be doing an LS1 swap, and need to know where a good place to lift the engine is. any help is appreciated, thx!

Jeff@TotalPerformanceEng

iTrader: (6)

I just pulled mine out of my C5 last night. I pulled it out the top.
You have a few options. You can either buy valley cover lifting plate (around 45 bucks) OR you can use a couple of studs off the side of the block.

I opted to use 2 of my bellhousing bolts (screwed into 2 spots on the side of the motor), and a leveler bar.

Its not hard at all.

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

yeah, the motor is not designed to come out from the top. its easier to drop it from the bottom. unlike the vettes, our engines sit under the wiper cowl, which means more work to get it out from the top.

Syxx613

iTrader: (8)

i plan to drop/ install from the bottom, however i need some way of holding it up and lowering onto a skid as i raise the vehicle on a lift slightly. where are these places to put the bellhousing bolts? could i just use the motor mounts or is that not a good point? thx guys!

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

You can lift it with 2 bolts, one in each head, on opposite corners. The bolt holes were the power steering pump bolts to work great.

Most people put the dolly/support/skid under the k-member/trans, set the car down on it, then unbolt the k-member, and lift the body.

There's a video floating around of the guys on HPTV doing the whole process, they go over nearly every aspect of it. Search around for "engine removal" or "pull motor" or something and you'll find a thread where it's posted.

03 BUSA

iTrader: (25)

I used the Happy Hooker from TPIS. Cost about $45 but worked great.

jay_99z

iTrader: (5)

Who told you that?

I think it's just as easy or easier to bring it out the top. It's all personal preference.

DrkPhx

iTrader: (15)

Because that is how the factory installed them and almost every shop does engine swaps for these cars. You're right it is a personal preference, but doing it from the bottom is easier.

I pulled mine from the top, minus heads and accessories. I used a regular engine hoist, but also used a load leveler which really helps. For the install, I did it from the bottom. It was installed complete (PCM harness, headers, and all accessories) with the entire front suspension, new k-member and trans attached.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

f you have a lift like most shops....out the bottom rules. They just set it on the ground.

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

all i gotta say is phone books?......

Sykokilla

iTrader: (4)

I searched for it, Here is the thread Blur was talking about I believe.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...e-removal.html

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

hellatious necropost there dude.. 0_o


Good link though.. I'll watch it. Gonna try and get an LQ block this summer.

Hard Core Z28

QTP makes a lifting plate. Here is the video on how it works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFdddGUnT74

thegroup

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=DrkPhx;6581363]Because that is how the factory installed them and almost every shop does engine swaps for these cars. You're right it is a personal preference, but doing it from the bottom is easier.[QUOTE]

sry but

easily can be done from the top. only took me about 5 hrs granted i already had the tranny and headers off. prob could have done it a little quicker if i had realized that i couldnt use a lever-er and just use chains like i did below

5w20

iTrader: (21)

[QUOTE=thegroup;14558395][QUOTE=DrkPhx;6581363]Because that is how the factory installed them and almost every shop does engine swaps for these cars. You're right it is a personal preference, but doing it from the bottom is easier.5 hrs? f-that

did bottom then tried top once, lets just say i will keep pulling them from the bottom.

thegroup

iTrader: (1)

Ow I'm sry. Not everyone has a fancy dancy shop like that to work in. Plus this was my 1st 4th gen pull. 2-3 hrs easily if I hadnt messed with that damn leveler or diddled around.

Steve Gunn

I used a $15.00 standard lift plate found at any auto parts. I had to key the holes with a dremmel to fit the valley plate holes.

5w20

iTrader: (21)

you don't need a shop to do it. i've done it the old fashioned way with a cherry picker and jack stands too. i don't recommend the pulling the engine from the top from my experience.


you can unbolt the k-member with jack stands underneath and with the front bumper removed pick the car up with the cherry picker.

BarneyMobile

iTrader: (4)

I've done it both ways. Out the top is much easier to me. I use to think going out bottom was easier until I did it out of the top. Going out of the bottom I think is harder for several reasons, you have to undo brake lines and make damn sure that everything is detactched from the car be for lifting the car. When you go back in, you have to make sure you don't crush anything and you'll have to bleed the brakes once everything is back in. I also hate the fact that you'll have to set your alignment since you've moved the K-member. Going out the top, you don't have to open any brake lines or move the K-member. FWIW, me and a buddy of mine had my motor out and on an engine stand in less than 2 hours going out the top.

Chrome355z

iTrader: (1)

Out the top unless you have a lift, most ppl that do it out the bottom do it in the most redneck death trap way possible...

IDK why people think it's hard out the top, it's like they think it's so cool to unbolt the K-Member that goign out the top is old fashioned and not worth their time. Short of a lift I think it's easier.