AIR Removal with PICS!
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
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From: Hutchinson, MN
I would think that if your going to buy headers, buy the "race" ones without the emissions stuff and then do it all at once. That way you don't have to buy any block off plates. If you don't have an ls6 intake you will have to go buy a freeze plug to fill the hole.
You will have to get your codes deleted once you remove both of them.
You will have to get your codes deleted once you remove both of them.
Last edited by -Freak-; Mar 23, 2007 at 06:51 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Hutchinson, MN
the Check engine light came on. i guess i have to get it programmed out.
I'm thinking i might as well do the egr then also, but heres the deal. I drive this as a daily driver during the summer and round trip every day is 100 miles. will removing the egr hurt my fuel mileage?
I'm thinking i might as well do the egr then also, but heres the deal. I drive this as a daily driver during the summer and round trip every day is 100 miles. will removing the egr hurt my fuel mileage?
Originally Posted by -Freak-
the Check engine light came on. i guess i have to get it programmed out.
I'm thinking i might as well do the egr then also, but heres the deal. I drive this as a daily driver during the summer and round trip every day is 100 miles. will removing the egr hurt my fuel mileage?
I'm thinking i might as well do the egr then also, but heres the deal. I drive this as a daily driver during the summer and round trip every day is 100 miles. will removing the egr hurt my fuel mileage?
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 33
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From: England- UK!
I tuned out my AIR system a while back and pulled the fuse, it wasnt till 2 weeks ago i removed all the hoses, Going to remove the pump today as the car is in bits! Shall take some pics of the pump removal but the hoses have already gone.
I cut the plates off the hoses I removed right at the base and got the little hole welded up, worked a treat!
No CEL as its been tuned out!
I cut the plates off the hoses I removed right at the base and got the little hole welded up, worked a treat!
No CEL as its been tuned out!
I removed the EGR and the AIR hoses a while back and had them programmed out...I will take the pump out soon, the hose is sitting on the inside of the fender with an old lug cap plugging it, lol...good job on the write up!
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From: Hutchinson, MN
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
No it won't, not enough to notice anyway. You should buy a 4-banger Honda for a 100 mile commute!
I'll get both tuned out and let you guys know if i notice a difference.
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Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 18
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From: South Side of Chicago
definitly a great write-up. I just got my LS1 and obviously put a lid on it. Since its an 01' it had the hose going to the air pump, I just took it off from the pump but was about to ask anyone if they had ever taken the whole system out and here it is... Thanks...
Nice post!
For some reason when I had my headers installed they said they removed the whole AIR and EGR system...by the looks of it they left the Air pump still on my car because i still have the hoses going down to it.....bastards!
For some reason when I had my headers installed they said they removed the whole AIR and EGR system...by the looks of it they left the Air pump still on my car because i still have the hoses going down to it.....bastards!
Very good write up.
For the SES light I just clear the codes and it only pops once in a blue moon. I think I have to do at least 40 min drive + stop and go to get it to show up.
It also helps to have a Diablo Sport tuner to scan/ clear the codes.
For the SES light I just clear the codes and it only pops once in a blue moon. I think I have to do at least 40 min drive + stop and go to get it to show up.
It also helps to have a Diablo Sport tuner to scan/ clear the codes.
Originally Posted by 2002BlackSS
What does that line connect to? Why can't it also be removed?
Teching In
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What trips the ses light? I have a set of race headers, but also have the block off kit I could put on until I figure out exactly what exhaust set up I wanna put on the car. My question is....what sets off the sensor with the removal of the air system only? is it set off simply by the difference in oxygen levels to the front O2 sensors/rear or a combination of this and voltage going to the air pump? Anyone know?
i have this really loud annoying, ticking-like sound when the engine is under a decent load. its almost like a pinhole leak i can only hear it from the drivers side but i bet its from both. im not sure if the AIR line gaskets are bad but it sounds like crap. i think its killing the power as well because i ran a 14.1 in the quarter (00 T/A WS6 M6) it might just be my driving but the sound is bad.....anyone think it could be something else like exhaust manifold gaskets or just a pipe leak? (all stock until the end of the y-pipe with a flowmaster catback, clamped on)
Originally Posted by Vrbas
Same system for a 99 WS-6? Cause i don't see that hose going to my lid under my hood. Maybe it fell down below somewhere?
