ARP harmonic bolt.
04-02-2007, 11:05 PM
#2
Originally Posted by LS1HowTo.com
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt which I *highly* recommend, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. I have always stopped at 200lb/ft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.
NOTE: If you did not buy a longer crank bolt, and you are reinstalling the stock pulley, you run the risk of stripping out the first few threads of the crankshaft. This will NOT be fun to fix! Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lb/ft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
NOTE: If you did not buy a longer crank bolt, and you are reinstalling the stock pulley, you run the risk of stripping out the first few threads of the crankshaft. This will NOT be fun to fix! Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lb/ft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count. Again, I always seem to get about 90-100 degrees worth (estimating, knowing what 90 degrees looks like) and leave it as is so don't worry about going crazy here.
Once the pulley is installed, the timing cover should be nice and centered around it, so we can now tighten all 10 of those timing cover bolts. Torque them to 18lb/ft on the bolts you can get a torque wrench on, and just make the others you can't get the wrench on about as tight as those. Reinstall the A/C belt at this time.
04-03-2007, 12:22 AM
#3
with the arp bolt? and its not the stock crank pulley. its the ati harmonic balancer. why would i want to use the stock crappy bolt. i stripped the first 3 threads off the crappy bolt on my last car. Th stock bolt is weak. how do i install the ARP bolt.
04-03-2007, 12:30 AM
#4
Most people use the old stock bolt to install the pulley, then put in a new stock bolt. The stock bolts are torque-to-yield, which means they are toast after one use. ARP is not, it's a much stronger unit, so that process I posted earlier doesn't really apply.
You need a longer bolt to get the pulley started with or you will end up stripping the CRANK, which is about as bad as it gets. After that, put the ARP in and TQ it down.
You need a longer bolt to get the pulley started with or you will end up stripping the CRANK, which is about as bad as it gets. After that, put the ARP in and TQ it down.
04-03-2007, 12:33 AM
#5
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No, you just use the stock bolt to "pull" the ARP on to the end of the crankshaft until it seats.
Blur is just saying that because it's an ARP bolt you don't have to do that extra "torque to yield" crap.
EDIT: Right, what he said.
Blur is just saying that because it's an ARP bolt you don't have to do that extra "torque to yield" crap.
EDIT: Right, what he said.
..well worth the 40 bucks Trending Topics
04-03-2007, 06:10 AM
#9
You guys have all of this wrong. Follow the GM procedure, which is DON'T pull it on with a bolt or you will damage the threads. If you don't have the right tool, make one, its less than $20.
Once the balancer is on all the way with the installation tool, use the old bolt and torque to 240 lb-ft. Then measure your snout setback, it will differ with the ATI pulley. Once you do this, install the ARP bolt with ARP Assembly Lube on the threads and both sides of the washer. Tighten to 190 lb-ft. If you take the ARP to 240 lb-ft, you will likely break it.
Also, I assume if you have the ATI pulley you have measured your interference fit and are between the required 0.0007"-0.0009" interference requirement on the diameter.
Once the balancer is on all the way with the installation tool, use the old bolt and torque to 240 lb-ft. Then measure your snout setback, it will differ with the ATI pulley. Once you do this, install the ARP bolt with ARP Assembly Lube on the threads and both sides of the washer. Tighten to 190 lb-ft. If you take the ARP to 240 lb-ft, you will likely break it.
Also, I assume if you have the ATI pulley you have measured your interference fit and are between the required 0.0007"-0.0009" interference requirement on the diameter.
04-03-2007, 10:28 AM
#10
You have a few options when it comes to the method by which you install the balancer. I would recommend the Kent Moore J41665 tool that GM calls out for this. It can be had on Ebay for ~$30. You will need a long bolt like in the picture from Vettenuts to use the tool. You can also buy the installer from hawk618 that works very well. Finally, you can make your own as detailed by Vettenuts.
ATI recommends 240-250 lb/ft as a torque specification for their balancer, whether using an aftermarket or stock bolt. Over the past few weeks, I've installed two ATI balancers on Corvette's with ARP bolts torqued to 250 lb/ft and have not had any issues.
There is a very good installation document here: www.jasperengines.com/pdf/GMCrankBalancer.pdf
HTH
ATI recommends 240-250 lb/ft as a torque specification for their balancer, whether using an aftermarket or stock bolt. Over the past few weeks, I've installed two ATI balancers on Corvette's with ARP bolts torqued to 250 lb/ft and have not had any issues.
There is a very good installation document here: www.jasperengines.com/pdf/GMCrankBalancer.pdf
HTH
Last edited by 405HP_Z06; 04-03-2007 at 12:16 PM.
04-03-2007, 11:49 AM
#11
Installing the pulley with a bolt is fine and dandy as long as it's a bit longer than the stock bolt. Putting the pulley in the oven for a while also helps.
The threaded rod with washers and nuts is the best option, but it's not completely necessary.
The threaded rod with washers and nuts is the best option, but it's not completely necessary.
04-07-2007, 10:43 PM
#13
Originally Posted by BigBenz
this is what i did. i used the stock old bolt to get my new bolt about 7 turns in . The the just took that arp bolt till i couldnt pull it anymore. seems just fine and everything lines up. I was almost standing on the bar lol
I like his way, short n sweet
04-07-2007, 10:57 PM
#14
I've got a few questions:
1) Is TSP the place to get my cam gasket kit?
2) I need to get the ARP bolt on top of the gasket kit?...so i then have a new balancer bolt and an ARP bolt...right? lol
3) *confused* the ARP bolt is used to get it started...then the stock one tightens it down...then the stock one comes out and the ARP goes back in @ 190lft/lbs???
I think I've heard/read too much about this and I've confused myself pretty good.
1) Is TSP the place to get my cam gasket kit?
2) I need to get the ARP bolt on top of the gasket kit?...so i then have a new balancer bolt and an ARP bolt...right? lol
3) *confused* the ARP bolt is used to get it started...then the stock one tightens it down...then the stock one comes out and the ARP goes back in @ 190lft/lbs???
I think I've heard/read too much about this and I've confused myself pretty good.
04-07-2007, 11:19 PM
#15
*confused* the ARP bolt is used to get it started...then the stock one tightens it down...then the stock one comes out and the ARP goes back in @ 190lft/lbs???
I think I've heard/read too much about this and I've confused myself pretty good.[/QUOTE]
im with him
I think I've heard/read too much about this and I've confused myself pretty good.[/QUOTE]
im with him
04-08-2007, 11:57 AM
#19
Originally Posted by BigBenz
What the hell do i TQ this puppy down to. the search aint working.
part number 234-2503
thanks alot guys.'
im hearing 250 lb tq please dont be true.
part number 234-2503
thanks alot guys.'
im hearing 250 lb tq please dont be true.
first pass for a crank bolt is 36ft lbs tq. then second pass is 120 or 140 degrees which the total come out to a lot lol... if you have the tool with the degrees for tq. then you'll be fine.