Ceramic coat or not?
.either way...I promise it will do no good to coat them. People do it anyway though. In the end it is your money and how fast you want to spend it.
Last edited by orangeapeel; Apr 14, 2007 at 09:29 AM.
I ran those times bone stock as well while the dyno results are after the clutch, lca's, and ls6 intake swap. I've ported the throttle body since then, and will be adding exhaust.
I'm building a true dual setup over the axle with stainless steel everything. I'm doing the measure 500000times, do it once approach to my exhaust.
After time, stainless does "stain" to a dull brown and they are a pain to clean installed. My car does see rain at the least. Considering the benefits it gives (low engine temps, higher exhaust temps) I think it's a good option, especially those in smog patrol crazed areas. Every little bit to help me pass emissions without having to change back to stock is a good option.
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It's pricey, but I already allocated enough cash to do all this, I actually found a shop to do the fab work of the true dual stainless steel cat back for a lot cheaper than I anticipated, so with that extra funds I opted to grab an adjustable panhard rod, driveshaft loop, get ARP header studs (instead of stage 8 lockers) and get the headers ceramic coated.
It's not exactly the "true duals for cheap" setup I'm aiming at. I'm going for an exhaust that can potentialy support 500hp naturally aspirated while still passing emissions testing of which we have nearly as bad as California.
I don't see why all of you are saying not to when he hasn't installed them yet... its worth it IMO. They might look a little bit worse, but you can get them ceramic coated silver or a similar color to the bronze-tone that the stainless will turn after a while.
After time, stainless does "stain" to a dull brown and they are a pain to clean installed. My car does see rain at the least. Considering the benefits it gives (low engine temps, higher exhaust temps) I think it's a good option, especially those in smog patrol crazed areas. Every little bit to help me pass emissions without having to change back to stock is a good option.
Well, if smog is a problem, you are 100% illegal with a longtube anyway.
I PROMISE you'll be thrilled with them if you get plane ole' uncoated stainless.
Also, if you measure the egt at the collector (via the 02 bung) it will be higher with all other parameters being the same. This will allow the 02 sensor to function better.
The lowered surrounding temps was mentioned by them, which never hurts considering all the electronics surrounding the LS1. The O2 sensor sensitivity was also mentioned as the higher temps inside would aid in that department.
Also, the headers were guaranteed to keep their color by the company that would do my headers else they'd recoat if it rainbowed badly or chipped. I'm not expecting them to stay immaculate, but it should resist the coloring stainless gets over time. I had a stainless steel y-pipe and catback on my old car and it was one of the things I noted before I sold it off last week that the stainless had really gone fugly over the years. I've seen some snowmobiles that had their exhaust pipes coated and despite being exposed to crap all winter have still kept a good color to it.
For appearance and stealth reasons, it was suggested to do them in black instead of typical shiny ceramic. This might be a good option for some. To me though, black reminds me of what my rusty old mild steel headers looked like right before they turned rusty.
Stainless turns a brown/gold after a while, but anybody who knows anything will realize they're stainless. Coated Kooks look just like Pacesetters. Coating WILL turn strange colors, and it will look like jacked up coating, not stainless.

If I WAS somehow convinced to coat my stainless, I'd do it flat black ceramic. I've seen several turbo kits done with it and they all look nice (on install).



