Rough Idle, what to check for
It is not surging as it holds the 850 rpm at idle in D. I A-tap'd it for idle rpm, current and historical misfires for all cylinders, IAC counts and desired IAC counts. All look great. This weekend I will double check the plugs and wires.
Is there anything else I should check, (i.e. EGR in A-tap and what values should I be looking for).
TIA for the help.
- Tom
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What it the best method for checking this? I ensured by intakes bolts are torqued to specs and the EGR is also. Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Tom
My guess is the ECM had adapted to the old plugs by richening the mixture. Now that the new ones have been in there a while, it "readapted" and leaned the mixture back out.
I'm just guessing, though. My idle is currently about the same as it was with the bad plugs, but my gas mileage is still up about 20%.
<small>[ April 18, 2002, 11:10 AM: Message edited by: 84ZZ4 ]</small>
I had dyno tuning done 2 days afdter plug swap (Dyno Graph here )
I don't think I am running rich. It idled great for the first 2 days after the dyno tune. Then the third day it started to act up (weather also got alot warmer).
What should I check to see if I am running "Pig Rich"
Thanks for the help
- Tom
If you had custom tuning done.. I'd suggest going back to them. See what they think is the problem.
Again thanks for all the help,
Tom
PS. I am going to ohm test the plus wires, what range should they be in?
<small>[ April 18, 2002, 06:43 PM: Message edited by: Tom99SS ]</small>
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That was another thought.. have you atap'd the car? If it's running pig rich. Might be the plugs.
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<strong>
...my IAC are around 80 when in drive (car warm after 1 hr of driving). Could it be that the warmer air needs the TB drilled more? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Your desired IAC in gear at a stop when the car is hot would be in the 30 - 40 range. If it is between 20 - 50, I wouldn't worry too much. If it is at 80, that's a bit too high. I'd try opening the TB blade about a 1/2 turn via the idle set screw and see if that helps. It is easier to remove than a hole in the TB blade.
Thanks to all for the help.
- Tom
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<strong>Thing is, it idle great for two days after the dyno tuning and the part throttle is fantastic. This only started happening once the weather got warmer (from 55 - 85). ... </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I don't suppose it rained during those two days did it?
I had to have my ECM replaced (under warranty) because of water intrusion damage during a big rain storm. The ECM is located very close to a water downspout. (Duh!) It should be sealed against water, but I guess mine leaked.
However... my symptoms were different. The idle surged between 500 and 800 rpms, and only when the engine was cold. BTW, the service department said the car was not safe to drive with the bad ECM in it.
Dave
The motor hasn't really been touched - could it be an intake leak? Is this hurting performance? Help, I'm an idiot!
FYI It only seemed to do it after the converter was installed, since the converter made it looser I can almost sit at stop lights with my foot off the brake and not move but when it surges the car inches forward slowly, is this normal?



