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Driver's side header is a bitch!!!!!!!!!!!

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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 01:06 PM
  #21  
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steering shaft should be a standard thing to remove since it does block somewhat.

once the lower bolt and top bolt are off, pull up on the shaft from where it connects to the rack and pinion, once off there slid it forward towards front of the car and it comes off. a small screwdriver should help pry it off the bottom.

it all depends on the angle you trying to go in at. if you point straight up or even further most header go right in. its all in the angle of the dangle.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 01:09 PM
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Thanks for your replies guys, I am bound and determined to get my car started tonight! we will see how it goes. Danny, it's hammer time! (no reference to MC Hammer)
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 01:40 PM
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Stick a screw driver or cold chisel, etc. right in here, (the slot on the pic). It'll spread that linkage enough to slide it off of the rack.
Attached Thumbnails Driver's side header is a bitch!!!!!!!!!!!-steering.jpg  
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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hell, my pacesetters went in without removing the casting flash or disconnecting the steering shaft. I just took the motor mount bolts loose and jacked up the motor, header slid right in. I can't believe the kooks are that much different unless they are 1 7/8" or bigger.

Get the steering shaft loose and jack the engine up, I'd bet firebirdman469's left nut the header would go in
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by turbotko
hell, my pacesetters went in without removing the casting flash or disconnecting the steering shaft. I just took the motor mount bolts loose and jacked up the motor, header slid right in. I can't believe the kooks are that much different unless they are 1 7/8" or bigger.

Get the steering shaft loose and jack the engine up, I'd bet firebirdman469's left nut the header would go in
it's not that kooks are different, it's that his car is different. when his car came off the assembly line, the clearances varied from the norm. that is why he's having problems. his car's slightly off compared to the norm. no car is 100% the same.

this further proves the fact that every brand of LT header will have clearance issues for someone, even kooks. our cars aren't all perfect and they're all a little different.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 03:07 PM
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ya but the KOOKs headers are a way different story........better bends, larger tubes......the y-pipe should be the easy part
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chuckyt1
Stick a screw driver or cold chisel, etc. right in here, (the slot on the pic). It'll spread that linkage enough to slide it off of the rack.
Thx for the pic, that's what I figured I had to do. I get off of work at 7:30 and we will see how it goes. I wonder how much the "seat of the pants horsepower" will be increased after LS6 intake install and Kooks headers....
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 03:24 PM
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Post up what it feels like, and any numbers when it's finished; I'm about to put on the same mods(AR headers/catted Y though) plus a TB and MAF. I'm anxious to see what it's like.

Video too!
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 03:54 PM
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My Pacesetters slid right in with out having to take the tab off or anything. Good luck dude, I would try jacking up the motor a little bit.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
it's not that kooks are different, it's that his car is different. when his car came off the assembly line, the clearances varied from the norm. that is why he's having problems. his car's slightly off compared to the norm. no car is 100% the same.

this further proves the fact that every brand of LT header will have clearance issues for someone, even kooks. our cars aren't all perfect and they're all a little different.
OH-Come on------there is NO WAY there is THAT much of a difference...
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:04 PM
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put the header straight up and down with the collector pointing down and push straight up should go right in.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeR@kooks
put the header straight up and down with the collector pointing down and push straight up should go right in.
George I have tried this numerous times to no avail, xxxtreme36 has even tried lol. I think I will get it tonight. By the way, great product!!
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by firebirdman469
George I have tried this numerous times to no avail, xxxtreme36 has even tried lol. I think I will get it tonight. By the way, great product!!
are you using a floor jack and jackstands? a lot of people find that that's not high enough for the install. what a lot of people do is put a wooden board on top of the floor hack, giving you another inch or two that you'll be able to jack it up. headers like kooks and QTP need A LOT of room underneath to install or so i hear. if you're using a floor jack, i bet you'll be able to get it in a lot easier with another few inches of room to stand the header up. if you know someone with a lift, now's the time to ask for a favor
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 05:36 PM
  #34  
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when i did my header install i only removed the oil filter and raised the engine a bit to get the drivers side in. make sure the car is high enough. i had these up all the way and some wood under them. so lets say rougly 24 inches in total lift. i placed the jack stands where the lower a arms meet the k member.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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Ok I took the steering linkage out....but I still can't get it. I actually get farther in from the top, but the collectors are spaced so damn far apart that it hits top part of the wheel well and the head....WTF!!!!!!!!!! It's been 8 hours of trying to get just this side in....the passenger side only took 5 minutes....

The only thing I can think of is to get that side of the motor higher......how is this done?? I have limited tools, jack stands and a floor jack.....HELP PLEASE!!! I will give money to whomever gives the best advice!!!!
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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take a breather first, when you get upset things start getting worse.

be easy on it and visualize the angles, first get the header pointed straight up, for me i pointed the header flange alittle towards the back of the car and then try that.

also those metal heat shields try forming them more against the car so they dont cut up ur hands or scratch the header.

dont touch the engine mount unless its ur last choice since you have to move the altrantor and junk to get to the mount bolt.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by MdFormula350
dont touch the engine mount unless its ur last choice since you have to move the altrantor and junk to get to the mount bolt.
i was able to get that bolt near the alternator out without removing the alternator
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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Anyone live close to me that could help me out????? This **** is ridiculous....
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 09:43 PM
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i installed some hookers last week. couldnt get the dr side in for ****. i took the linkage out, beat the floor board in and put a ding in one tube, nothing. i losened the motor mount and jacked the motor up about 3 inches and bam. right in.
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Old Apr 26, 2007 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 3800RS
i installed some hookers last week. couldnt get the dr side in for ****. i took the linkage out, beat the floor board in and put a ding in one tube, nothing. i losened the motor mount and jacked the motor up about 3 inches and bam. right in.
When you loosened the motor mount....which bolts are they?? and did you have to loosen any other bolts?? I don't want to only loosen 1 side, and break something when I jack the motor up.......

I am going to post pics in a second..
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