Some of you may have been aware that I am in the process of a heads/cam swap. There have been a recent flood of ASP pulley threads online, especially people with concerns about installing them with Double Roller timing chains. I already have a Rollmaster/Iwis Double Roller timing chain installed in my car. Today I put the ASP pulley on. Here's a rundown of my install.

I did pretty much everything per jmX's walkthrough. I did not need to use a longer crank bolt like some people say you do. I was able to fit the ASP pulley onto the crank snout by hand, and get it on far enough that when I threaded the old crank bolt into the crank, it was able to turn a full 2-2.5 times before I got hard to turn. This was enough for me to begin tightening the pulley on.

I also chose not to lubricate the crank snout with motor oil like some people said. The pulley went on rather easily with my torque wrench and 2 foot cheater pipe slipped over the handle. The hardest part was actually keeping the flywheel from spinning. (I have an A4). I already had the starter dropped from when I took the old pulley off. Getting my metal rod into the flywheel and keeping it from turning was a little tricky, since it would fall out sometimes.

I got the old bolt torqued down to what I would guess would be somewhere between 200-240 ft/lbs. My torque wrench only went to 150 ft lbs, and I was able to turn it maybe 1/8 of a full turn (45 degrees) past 150.

This is a picture of my pulley seated onto the crank with the timing chain cover still loose.



I got the old bolt out, and put the new one in. I torqueed it down to 37 ft/lbs, and then got out my breaker bar. I took a pencil and marked the bottom of the bolt, and turned it to a little past 90 degrees. That's all I was able to turn it. Even though it says to turn it to 140 degrees, jmX's walkthrough says at least 90 is enough. If you look at the following picture, which is the pulley seated onto the crank, with the new bolt in, and the timing cover torqued down to specs, you'll see that where the A/C belt would go, is lined up with the tensioner.



If you notice, you can see more of the crank snout (the darker metal) in the second picture than the first picture. This is because in the first picture, the timing cover was loose, and is covering up more of the crank snout.

As I'm sure most of you know, there has been a lot of debate as to whether ASP pulleys need to be shaved in order for them to work with double roller tming chains. Maybe this doesn't apply to Rollmaster chains, but as you can see, there is no way possible the pulley could be affected by the chain. There is about 1/8" between the end of the pulley and the beginning of the front main seal.

In the end, this install went a LOT smoother than I thought it was. I was super paranoid about this thing, and this install put a big smile on my face as I didn't run into any of the problems I thought I would. I hope this information sets some of your mind's at ease if you were considering an ASP pulley and Rollmaster chain.

 

I still find it weird that the way the ASP pulley fits on does not cause a leak from the front seal. I've pulled my stocker off a few times, and I've noticed that the pulley fits into the front seal (causing it to not only seal tightly but to align the timing cover.)
In fact, I'm not sure what benefit there is to NOT tightening up the timing cover first during an ASP pulley install. Since no part of the pulley is even touching the front seal, how could it possible align anything?
Further, since the crank snout clearly has a smaller diameter than the part of the pulley that slips over it, I can't understand why this setup doesn't leak. Appareantly it doesn't leak, but I wonder why?

Anyways, maybe I'm looking at this the wrong way, but those pictures sure seem to make it clear...

Tommy

 

Hey man, I am in total agreeance with you. I just dont understand how this setup doesn't work.

Even more confusing is why so many people have had problems where they needed to mill their ASP pulley with a double chain? As you can see, there is plenty of room, and that doesnt even count the thickness of the seal before you get to the oil pump. The ASP pulley would probably have to be a full 1/2" - 3/4" longer to protrude into the main seal and that just isnt the case. As you can see in my pix, it is aligned with the AC pump and tensioner, so its obviously on as far as it needs to go!

 

BTW, awsome website. Good luck with your setup, it should be sick! Be sure to get a good tune

Tommy

 

That is the pulley and not the crank.




The pulley goes into the seal. You guys are mistaking the smaller diameter end of the pulley for the crank.

 

Nice work

Good luck

 

Ther was never a huge debate. It was just stated that some guys get them to fit right on, and others have to get them milled.

What you are milling is the OD. of the pulley, and the lip. Nothing is coming off the end. So, the pulley will go on fine, the way you have shown. Mine looked like that. The problem is that the motor would not turn over with a beaker bar, after the pulley was all the way on, because the OD. of the pulley was pushing out into the oil pump cog (sticked out further because it had to be shimmed when the double roller was installed.

I hope this clears it up. Make sure the motor turns over by hand (wrench). If you are one of the lucky ones, that has no issues, then congradulations, you can move on to the next step. I was not so fortunate & feel that I was lucky to have caught it.

 

Is your's a new SFI approved design or the older one? There may be some differences in the two...I know one is heavier.

For the real test, go out and romp on it through the four gears you have and let us know if the belt flies off. After I finally got mine put on, my was snugged up to the cover more and there is only about an 1/8" of the pulley shaft cover showing. Still got my belt, but haven't beat on it on the highway....just 1,2 gears.

I know you said you were in process so this might not be feasible for you, so let us know when you get it buttoned back up.

 

I wish I would have taken a picture of my pulley before putting it on, but are you sure about that? Take a look at this picture. This is my pulley just resting on the crank snout before I put any pressure on it with the bolt. The crank is a darker color than the pulley is...and thats what I thought I was seeing as the darker metal in the pictures with the pulley on tight.



Yes, I definitely checked this. I put my breaker bar back on the bolt with my flywheel unlocked, and I was able to turn the engine over just as easily as before the pulley was installed. Thank goodness I am one of the lucky ones that didn't have any problems.

No, this is the older style pulley. I actually bought this thing back in Feb when I was putting the pieces together for my engine. I think I read in another thread the SFI approved versions are all black. If you can see any shiny metal parts of the pulley, like mine, then its the older style.

And I will definitely give all of you a review of everything once its back together. This weekend I am hoping to get my heads back on. The car is being tuned at Speed Inc on Friday, May 23, so that night I should have some impressions on the car...if it runs!

 

BTW, thanks everyone for all their advice and feedback on this! Good luck to anyone attempting this!