Y-pipe Argh!!!!
07-08-2007, 10:02 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by nytmare1
I installed my XS headers/Y-pipe yesterday. +1 for the pry bar / heater hose mod. It's pretty common knowledge that on these headers, the clearence on the driver side is incredibly close (read: touching). But, I'll take it to my exhaust shop, have them weld in the high-flow cats I bought and twead the driver side collector so that it clears with no touching. After all is said, I'll still have paid significantly less for stainless steel headers and Y-pipe than I would have for other brands.
Oh... I love the new setup! Woot!!
Marc
Oh... I love the new setup! Woot!!
Marc
For Marc's headers I lowered the K-member to get the y-pipe onto the collector. Due to clearance issues with the design. the collector is too close to the floor, So it was very difficult to get on, and touches the bottom of the car.
I told Marc to have an exhaust shop heat the pipes at the bend of the collector and reposition it. That should fix the issues. Other than that the rest went together pretty well. The only other issues I found was that the bolt holes on the flanges were slightly off, making it harder than usual to get the last bolt in. Also the number 4 spark plug wire sits very close to the pipe. We put heat shielding on them so it should be ok.
Marc as soon as you tune out the rear O2s you will be able to feel a giant difference in performance. Glad you are happy. Pass my name on to everyone else.
07-08-2007, 06:02 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by wldesyWS6
ok, question for all of you then. Im going to weld in dual cutouts on this y-pipe right after the headers....are they goin to fit????????
07-08-2007, 11:47 PM
#25
Originally Posted by KameleonTransAm
No I did the rubber hose mod, so no vibration for me. I've started it a lot already making sure everything's okay.
07-09-2007, 12:34 AM
#26
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Oh, hmm I don't remember the exact thread but it was within the past 2 days and honestly its quite simply. You just go to your local autoparts store and ask them for a foot of 1" rubber hose. Then cut off however much you need, then cut through the center, hot-dog style, and place it between the pipe and floorboard where contact is. Hope that helps.
07-09-2007, 06:23 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Gangreen
I told Marc to have an exhaust shop heat the pipes at the bend of the collector and reposition it. That should fix the issue. The only other issues I found was that the bolt holes on the flanges were slightly off, making it harder than usual to get the last bolt in. Also the number 4 spark plug wire sits very close to the pipe.
We heated up the collector at the bend and bent it downwards. We also smacked on the top of the Y in that area and flattened it more. That gave enough clearance to get the heater hose in there. Otherwise the Y would be jammed up against a frame brace. We opened up the first and last bolt holes. The back bolt would not go in straight. I installed a set of MSD plug wires and they fit beautifully with plenty of room.
These headers slide up with unbelievable ease. But because of these other issues, I was lucky to do the install at a shop with a lift with experienced exhaust guys.
07-09-2007, 06:49 PM
#29
Originally Posted by Soul TKR
Once you stick the rubber hose up there, how does it stay in place? Do you tie it down with anything? Also I would think that rubber hose would melt on a hot exhaust pipe?
07-09-2007, 07:18 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Soul TKR
what do you mean run it through it? if you sliced it down the center "hot dog style" how do you run a clamp through it?
07-09-2007, 07:21 PM
#32
It's tight enough that I just wedged it in there. It's not going anywhere. If you don't slice it, you can run a clamp through it.
I was a little concerned about melting/burning, but since so many guys recommend this, I guess it's not an issue. I'm going to keep an eye on it for a while, though.
I was a little concerned about melting/burning, but since so many guys recommend this, I guess it's not an issue. I'm going to keep an eye on it for a while, though.
07-09-2007, 07:55 PM
#33
Originally Posted by INMY01TA
I didn't say anything about "slicing it". Cut a piece of hose an inch or two long and run the clamp thru it. Wrap it around the pipe and tighten it down.
Originally Posted by KameleonTransAm
Oh, hmm I don't remember the exact thread but it was within the past 2 days and honestly its quite simply. You just go to your local autoparts store and ask them for a foot of 1" rubber hose. Then cut off however much you need, then cut through the center, hot-dog style, and place it between the pipe and floorboard where contact is. Hope that helps.
07-09-2007, 10:53 PM
#34
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idk i mean i guess it could be done with pretty much common sense. the only thing i would have trouble with in my mind at least is how to make it stay. I'm sure once i got down there i could figure it out..
07-10-2007, 12:37 AM
#35
thanks for the info guys, i may end up needing to do this when i install my xs's. i also would think melting would be an issue so i guess I'll just try and find some high temp rated hose. i dont know how hot the exhaust pipes get but it's gotta be several hundred degrees.
07-10-2007, 02:38 AM
#36
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I had more issues with my Y-pipe to Intermediate connection and my stock exhaust mounts on the rear of the car than I ever did with the headers or y-pipe themselves...
granted I did have, what RevGTO mentioned, the rear bolts not going in right... so I just halfassed it and used a stock bolt on each of the rear sides and have had zero issues... though tightening with both an 11mm on all but two of the header bolts was slightly annoying, since the stockers are 10mm
so I'm a little surprised about the issues recently... might have just been a bent jig or whathaveyou... who knows ... mine went in like cake, well, as close to cake-like as one can expect when doing them by yourself, on jack stands, in an apartment complex parking lot and having zero prior experience with a header install on an LS1 F-Body
granted I did have, what RevGTO mentioned, the rear bolts not going in right... so I just halfassed it and used a stock bolt on each of the rear sides and have had zero issues... though tightening with both an 11mm on all but two of the header bolts was slightly annoying, since the stockers are 10mm
so I'm a little surprised about the issues recently... might have just been a bent jig or whathaveyou... who knows ... mine went in like cake, well, as close to cake-like as one can expect when doing them by yourself, on jack stands, in an apartment complex parking lot and having zero prior experience with a header install on an LS1 F-Body
07-10-2007, 08:17 AM
#37
Originally Posted by Demon Of Dreams
mine went in like cake, well, as close to cake-like as one can expect when doing them by yourself, on jack stands, in an apartment complex parking lot and having zero prior experience with a header install on an LS1 F-Body
BTW, how do you tolerate your GMMG with the ORY? On mine the rasp is beyond horrible - like a jackhammer. I'm not even driving my car until my Hooker goes on.
07-10-2007, 09:53 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by RevGTO
I don't know how you guys do it ...
BTW, how do you tolerate your GMMG with the ORY? On mine the rasp is beyond horrible - like a jackhammer. I'm not even driving my car until my Hooker goes on.
BTW, how do you tolerate your GMMG with the ORY? On mine the rasp is beyond horrible - like a jackhammer. I'm not even driving my car until my Hooker goes on.
as for how we do it...
lack of options in the end.
i had two days to kill and figured if I didn't do it in one day at least I had a second day to knock it out.
07-10-2007, 01:12 PM
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Ok, so who is having trouble with their Y-pipe RESTING on their floorboard? How about the bolt holes on the header flanges not properly lining up with the head? I sold my Jet-Hot longtubes and ORY in order to get a set of these XS headers and I hope I made the right choice... I'm mainly wanting to know if this is an isolated incident, or if there is an entire batch of these things that are not fitting properly.