what should i dyno at the rear wheels?
08-01-2007, 01:36 PM
#21
Originally Posted by SLP/Drew
well I am pleased with my results...I live in Memphis Tn and it is hot and humid outside today and the car pulled 345.13rwhp and 355.56rwtq, on the street it pulls real hard for a bolt on car. Oh and who ever said that uncatted ls1 sound like ****...well their wrong, this is the best sounding exaust ive ever heard!!! (pacesetter lt, ory, and flowmasters)
That just seems high for bolt ons. What dyno was this on? Like i said you lose hp with the Chokemaster c/b and the 4.10 gear. The numbers you posted are those SAE corrected? i think that those are...
it's a catfish thing 
08-01-2007, 11:34 PM
#27
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Palm Harbor, Fl
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TLUZLS1
Wait so SAE correction lowers your numbers? I dynoed 332/351 sae but 339/357 std. Can someone please clarify?
The main thing in using a correction factor is consistancy. If your baseline is SAE, all others should be as well.
Here's some info I found through a quick google search:
http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-tec...horsepower.htm
08-02-2007, 08:08 AM
#29
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: College Station/La Porte, TX
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 2002BlackSS
They're 2 different standards of correction for weather. SAE is typically going to show lower numbers than STD, but most people seem to prefer it (I haven't really looked into the formulas much to see which is better in my mind, but I chose to stick with SAE). Each standard (or set of standards) is a way of normalizing the data from a dyno so it can be compared to other dyno pulls. Each set assigns "ideal" conditions and compensates for any difference in temperature and pressure. Because the ideal conditions vary for each standard, they will result in different corrected numbers (if a pull is made at the ideal conditions, there will be no difference between uncorrected and corrected numbers).
The main thing in using a correction factor is consistancy. If your baseline is SAE, all others should be as well.
Here's some info I found through a quick google search:
http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-tec...horsepower.htm
The main thing in using a correction factor is consistancy. If your baseline is SAE, all others should be as well.
Here's some info I found through a quick google search:
http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-tec...horsepower.htm
08-02-2007, 10:46 AM
#30
TECH Resident
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Palm Harbor, Fl
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TLUZLS1
Ok thanks, I guess im just trying to figure out an excuse for why my car put down such weak numbers.
Don't worry about it though. Did you have a baseline? How much did you make from your mods? Enjoy driving your car, even if you don't enjoy dynoing it!
08-02-2007, 06:48 PM
#31
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: College Station/La Porte, TX
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 2002BlackSS
Your numbers are a bit on the low side - I've got similar mods and dynoed 332/34x (had a spike on the torque, but another pull during the tune was 325/338, so I'm guessing around 340-342 for torque). This is without any TB work and through an A4.
Don't worry about it though. Did you have a baseline? How much did you make from your mods? Enjoy driving your car, even if you don't enjoy dynoing it!
Don't worry about it though. Did you have a baseline? How much did you make from your mods? Enjoy driving your car, even if you don't enjoy dynoing it!
