bent valves aren't going to add any additional rotating resistance, so you won't feel it harder to turn if your valves are hanging open, if anything they won't allow the cylinder to build compression so it might actually turn easier.


try to refrain from the "see how bad my life gets" statements, we've all been there. the first motor i built when i was 17 had the cam timing off and bent almost all the valves, i had no help and didn't know what to do. you learn from your mistakes. now i work at a dealership and i think of that first motor i fk'd up every time i do a timing belt.

 

do a leakdown test and find out for sure. if you get air coming out the intake when you're not supposed to, the intake valves are bent.

 

Refer to what I said here..
Even if the there was a slightly bent valve stem, its not going to make it harder for the motor to crank. If its a bent stem, or if the valve just isnt seating properly (because of the afore mentioned lockup), then the cylinder is not going to hold compression, making it able to turn with very little effort.

But assuming this was the case, youre probably not going to have bent valves in every cylinder, and it doesnt sound like its hitting compression anywhere in the turn over.

Im almost wondering if you can wire a starter backwards

 

(shaking head in disbelief)

I assume by that you mean "yes, it's an adjustable timing set."

The Rollmaster I saw on Texas Speed's site have several crank keyways machined into them, each one dials in a given amount of cam timing advance or retard.

Assuming you have one of those, which keyway did you install the crank gear onto?

 

 

 

its non adjsutable from what I can tell

 

All the Rollmaster doubles I see on Futral and TSP are adjustable.

Got the part# from yours?

 

No I dont, came with the motor I bought.

 

Did it come with an instruction sheet?

 

no it didnt. I looked at the front and back of it, no marknig or anything identical front and back sides.

 

On Gen-1 SBCs, adjustable timing sets had three different crank keyways...each had a unique symbol like a circle, a triangle, or a square.

The cam sprocket only had one dowel pin hole, but had corresponding circle/triangle/square symbols in the right locations.

Basically, you decided if you wanted the cam retarded, advanced, or straight up based on the cam's grind. Most newer cams came with 4deg advance already ground in, so you just installed the timing set on the straight up markings. If you installed the crank gear on the triangle keyway, you used the cam gear's triangle as your 6 o'clock pointer.

When finished installing, you checked the results with a timing wheel. Most common screwup was mismatching the symbols...crank gear on the triangle, cam gear indexed on the circle symbol for example.

I dunno nothing about no Rollmaster timing sets, hopefully this info will point you in some useful direction.

 

Hey Tainted ,
I'm sorry for your frustration.
Sounds like bent valves but could still be cam timing p/r length etc. etc.
Just remember, no matter what you do , you MUST find out what caused this to happen in the first place or you will be out even more money and your car will be down longer yet.
If you are new at this (we all have had a beginning and some hard knocks along the way) and you don't have all of the proper tools and experience, I strongly suggest you save up some extra cash and pay a qualified tech to go through the entire set up, i.e. valve timing, push rod length, p/v valve clearence etc.
Mabe this person would be willing to have you watch to see if you missed a step along the way.

Good Luck hope you get it running soon.

 

What size valves do you need? I might know a place that has good deals on Rev Stainless Valves, or if you need stock size I have a complete set here you can have.

 

Before I check out for the night, this article has a good picture of the Rollmaster multi-keyway crank gear. If you still have pics of your engine parts and build, go back and compare.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ii/index1.html

 

i would highly recomend this.....ive got a question you said it was dot to dot....well it can still be 180 out....and thats what it sounds like ive seen it thousands of times....Did you for 100% sure have #1 on TDC when you lined up the dots??????if not it will do everything your explaining.....do a leakdown with the rockers off....if its good re check the timing......

 

If the dots are lined up correctly how can it be 180 off ?

 

are you serious???????well think about it its a 4 stroke engine with 8 cylinders......lolyou have to get #1 on top dead center which means the # 1 piston has to be up...

 

May I just throw something out there so you can be prepared for a possible bent valve(s)? I'm goin to assume you just said yes....

In bending a valve, you also run the risk of bending the valve guide as well. Now, I don't know how many this may or may not have happened to, but I wanted to throw that out there so you aren't surprised if you take it to a machine shop and they say the guides need to be replaced (or they're bent enough that the head is unuseable). It's a slight possibility, but a possibility nonetheless. I know it's a lot to handle at this point, but it's better to be fully aware of what could have happened.

If i was at home (across the country), I believe I have a stock head that is laying around that I would gladly pull the valves off and send em to you. However, I think that's a bit too much of a job to ask of my family to do for me

 

definitely do a leakdown with the rockers off to make sure your not just off 180 degrees. Unfortunately however, it's sounding more and more like you might of bent hte intake valves even with light contact turning it over.