New Product - WS6 Functional Ram Air Kit!
#81
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[QUOTE=Fast Toys Performance Parts;8148125]If you already sealed the top nostrils yourself, you could just order the bottom portion of the kit
QUOTE]
I think what he's worried about, like myself, is that we would have to modify our current airbox seals because they would not allow any air into the airbox even with the lower plate without removing the lower portion. Look at these pics to see what we mean. Pay attention to the bottom area:
![](https://www.fasttoys.net/shop/images/jaam1.jpg)
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I think what he's worried about, like myself, is that we would have to modify our current airbox seals because they would not allow any air into the airbox even with the lower plate without removing the lower portion. Look at these pics to see what we mean. Pay attention to the bottom area:
![](https://www.fasttoys.net/shop/images/jaam1.jpg)
![](https://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/jag42420/JGRA.jpg)
#83
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Our current seals keep IATs low, and have no open areas for hot air to come into. One of the only concerns I (probably we) have is that the larger open areas of the lower part of the JAAM (2 around the latching mechanisms and washer fluid lid) may allow hot engine compartment air in.
Those of us (us meaning WS6 owners, as non WS6 owners have a win win with the FTRA) that are not FTRA fans are not for that main reason, it has to be moving a while to stay effective. While I would agree that the performance gains are comparable/similar at speed, keeping the IATs low around town keeps PCM calculations (like spark) off the line optimal.
Everything aside, I agree that this kit is a much more long term and stock looking setup than what we currently have. I'd just like to see some performance data, and possibly some IAT logging. My current seal keeps IATs within a few degrees of outside temps, and has not been above 90 since I installed it.
...I'm thinking that maybe there's a way to use some rubber around the areas where the holes will meet when the hood closes...
Those of us (us meaning WS6 owners, as non WS6 owners have a win win with the FTRA) that are not FTRA fans are not for that main reason, it has to be moving a while to stay effective. While I would agree that the performance gains are comparable/similar at speed, keeping the IATs low around town keeps PCM calculations (like spark) off the line optimal.
Everything aside, I agree that this kit is a much more long term and stock looking setup than what we currently have. I'd just like to see some performance data, and possibly some IAT logging. My current seal keeps IATs within a few degrees of outside temps, and has not been above 90 since I installed it.
...I'm thinking that maybe there's a way to use some rubber around the areas where the holes will meet when the hood closes...
#85
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The kit will only work on WS6 cars. If you have an Ultra Z hood, go with our FTRA instead.
JAAM did their testing using only the upper nostrils and combination of upper and lower nostrils. With upper nostrils only, they did not see a significant pressure increase. They only received the pressure incease using all 4. There is a pressure table posted on our site and probably in one of these threads
JAAM did their testing using only the upper nostrils and combination of upper and lower nostrils. With upper nostrils only, they did not see a significant pressure increase. They only received the pressure incease using all 4. There is a pressure table posted on our site and probably in one of these threads
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What if you had the FTRA, would actually using the entire new kit on a WS6 give you even more air? Or would one fight the other and cause some kind of turbulence?
Just a thought after looking on your site, since they would be pulling from the top side of the car and the bottom...
Would it be possible to get the new JAAM kit without the cut out for the washer fluid resevior? As I do not have washer fluid, and the hole would look stupid...
Just a thought after looking on your site, since they would be pulling from the top side of the car and the bottom...
Would it be possible to get the new JAAM kit without the cut out for the washer fluid resevior? As I do not have washer fluid, and the hole would look stupid...
#88
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What if you had the FTRA, would actually using the entire new kit on a WS6 give you even more air? Or would one fight the other and cause some kind of turbulence?
Just a thought after looking on your site, since they would be pulling from the top side of the car and the bottom...
Would it be possible to get the new JAAM kit without the cut out for the washer fluid resevior? As I do not have washer fluid, and the hole would look stupid...
Just a thought after looking on your site, since they would be pulling from the top side of the car and the bottom...
Would it be possible to get the new JAAM kit without the cut out for the washer fluid resevior? As I do not have washer fluid, and the hole would look stupid...
The lower plates are all cut for the washer resevoir. It would have to be some sort of a special order to get one made without (if they can do it).
#89
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I have a US Exotics hood it's like the firehawk but 2" taller. I was starting to pull off the lower air box to add the ws6 style when I notice that the person who owned the car before me cut out the bottom of the air box. has any one heard of the and would it even help? I'm also intrested in this kit.
Last edited by ls1joe; 11-21-2007 at 12:10 AM. Reason: grammer
#92
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I have a US Exotics hood it's like the firehawk but 2" taller. I was starting to pull off the lower air box to add the ws6 style when I notice that the person who owned the car before me cut out the bottom of the air box. has any one heard of the and would it even help? I'm also intrested in this kit.
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Our current seals keep IATs low, and have no open areas for hot air to come into. One of the only concerns I (probably we) have is that the larger open areas of the lower part of the JAAM (2 around the latching mechanisms and washer fluid lid) may allow hot engine compartment air in.
Those of us (us meaning WS6 owners, as non WS6 owners have a win win with the FTRA) that are not FTRA fans are not for that main reason, it has to be moving a while to stay effective. While I would agree that the performance gains are comparable/similar at speed, keeping the IATs low around town keeps PCM calculations (like spark) off the line optimal.
Everything aside, I agree that this kit is a much more long term and stock looking setup than what we currently have. I'd just like to see some performance data, and possibly some IAT logging. My current seal keeps IATs within a few degrees of outside temps, and has not been above 90 since I installed it.
...I'm thinking that maybe there's a way to use some rubber around the areas where the holes will meet when the hood closes...
Those of us (us meaning WS6 owners, as non WS6 owners have a win win with the FTRA) that are not FTRA fans are not for that main reason, it has to be moving a while to stay effective. While I would agree that the performance gains are comparable/similar at speed, keeping the IATs low around town keeps PCM calculations (like spark) off the line optimal.
Everything aside, I agree that this kit is a much more long term and stock looking setup than what we currently have. I'd just like to see some performance data, and possibly some IAT logging. My current seal keeps IATs within a few degrees of outside temps, and has not been above 90 since I installed it.
...I'm thinking that maybe there's a way to use some rubber around the areas where the holes will meet when the hood closes...
Relocating the IAT to a position in the airstream right before the air enters the filter will resolve your 'high IAT' issues and will cost you less than $40 for an off-the-shelf extension + new IAT sensor.
#95
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I logged my IATs both before and after sealing using HPTuners. My IATs were commonly 120-140 in traffic before I sealed, debaffled and did the coolant bypass. I sealed, debaffled, and did the coolant bypass mid summer, and my IATs have not once climbed above 95 in traffic. That's effectively a 25-40 degree temperature drop, without moving anything. My IATs are typically about 10 degrees higher than outside temps sitting in traffic now. BTW - 95% of my driving is below 35mph in town, with stoplights every block or two.
Getting cooler air in will definitely make a difference, and truely lower IATs for more power and better mileage. I can't see making more power with hotter air regardless of tuning or sensor location. I could put the sensor in a refrigerated box, but the PCM would just be getting false data, and the spark advance would be wasted.
Last edited by jag42420; 11-21-2007 at 01:57 PM.
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I'll have to agree to disagree with you there. While I do agree that heat soak keeps you from achieving a perfect outside temperature IAT, sealing, debaffling, and doing the coolant bypass is very effective in lowering IATs. My concern with the JAAM is that it appears to allow hot engine air to enter, similar to the FRA mod.
I logged my IATs both before and after sealing using HPTuners. My IATs were commonly 120-140 in traffic before I sealed, debaffled and did the coolant bypass. I sealed, debaffled, and did the coolant bypass mid summer, and my IATs have not once climbed above 95 in traffic. That's effectively a 25-40 degree temperature drop, without moving anything. My IATs are typically about 10 degrees higher than outside temps sitting in traffic now. BTW - 95% of my driving is below 35mph in town, with stoplights every block or two.
I logged my IATs both before and after sealing using HPTuners. My IATs were commonly 120-140 in traffic before I sealed, debaffled and did the coolant bypass. I sealed, debaffled, and did the coolant bypass mid summer, and my IATs have not once climbed above 95 in traffic. That's effectively a 25-40 degree temperature drop, without moving anything. My IATs are typically about 10 degrees higher than outside temps sitting in traffic now. BTW - 95% of my driving is below 35mph in town, with stoplights every block or two.
I'd think it would be more accurate for fuel and spark calculations where the air enters the TB, after going through the airbox assembly. Either way, with good tuning I can't see it making a difference either way as the actual air temp would be unaffected.
Getting cooler air in will definitely make a difference, and truely lower IATs for more power and better mileage. I can't see making more power with hotter air regardless of tuning or sensor location. I could put the sensor in a refrigerated box, but the PCM would just be getting false data, and the spark advance would be wasted.
Getting cooler air in will definitely make a difference, and truely lower IATs for more power and better mileage. I can't see making more power with hotter air regardless of tuning or sensor location. I could put the sensor in a refrigerated box, but the PCM would just be getting false data, and the spark advance would be wasted.
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Trust me when I say I've done quite a bit of testing with the IAT. Take my friend's car for example. At the track on an 80* day, he was leaving the line with IAT's in the 120s~130s and 21* of timing instead of the 27* he should have seen (due to the IAT timing table). By the end of the track, his IATs were still in the low 90s. Relocated the IAT and the next pass he left in the high 80s under full timing (27*) and was within 2* of ambient temp. by the 1/8th mile. It's worth doing on an NA car regardless of the kind of ram air kit you have.
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Trust me when I say I've done quite a bit of testing with the IAT. Take my friend's car for example. At the track on an 80* day, he was leaving the line with IAT's in the 120s~130s and 21* of timing instead of the 27* he should have seen (due to the IAT timing table). By the end of the track, his IATs were still in the low 90s. Relocated the IAT and the next pass he left in the high 80s under full timing (27*) and was within 2* of ambient temp. by the 1/8th mile. It's worth doing on an NA car regardless of the kind of ram air kit you have.