jag42420

[QUOTE=Fast Toys Performance Parts;8148125]If you already sealed the top nostrils yourself, you could just order the bottom portion of the kit QUOTE]

I think what he's worried about, like myself, is that we would have to modify our current airbox seals because they would not allow any air into the airbox even with the lower plate without removing the lower portion. Look at these pics to see what we mean. Pay attention to the bottom area:

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you might need to modify your seals a bit. Take a look at the link to the JAAM instructions we posted and it shows some more pictures and details.

jag42420

Our current seals keep IATs low, and have no open areas for hot air to come into. One of the only concerns I (probably we) have is that the larger open areas of the lower part of the JAAM (2 around the latching mechanisms and washer fluid lid) may allow hot engine compartment air in.

Those of us (us meaning WS6 owners, as non WS6 owners have a win win with the FTRA) that are not FTRA fans are not for that main reason, it has to be moving a while to stay effective. While I would agree that the performance gains are comparable/similar at speed, keeping the IATs low around town keeps PCM calculations (like spark) off the line optimal.

Everything aside, I agree that this kit is a much more long term and stock looking setup than what we currently have. I'd just like to see some performance data, and possibly some IAT logging. My current seal keeps IATs within a few degrees of outside temps, and has not been above 90 since I installed it.

...I'm thinking that maybe there's a way to use some rubber around the areas where the holes will meet when the hood closes...

LS1>Imports

iTrader: (2)

would this work for camaros with the ultra z hood?

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

The kit will only work on WS6 cars. If you have an Ultra Z hood, go with our FTRA instead.

JAAM did their testing using only the upper nostrils and combination of upper and lower nostrils. With upper nostrils only, they did not see a significant pressure increase. They only received the pressure incease using all 4. There is a pressure table posted on our site and probably in one of these threads

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

^ that doesn't surprise me, i would think the bottom nostrils being bigger and lower would definetely direct more air into the airbox

NSTY WS6

iTrader: (5)

What if you had the FTRA, would actually using the entire new kit on a WS6 give you even more air? Or would one fight the other and cause some kind of turbulence?

Just a thought after looking on your site, since they would be pulling from the top side of the car and the bottom...

Would it be possible to get the new JAAM kit without the cut out for the washer fluid resevior? As I do not have washer fluid, and the hole would look stupid...

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

Air takes the path of least resistance so the two kits are going to fight each other and any pressure gained in one will be lost out the other. Pick one and stick to it.

The lower plates are all cut for the washer resevoir. It would have to be some sort of a special order to get one made without (if they can do it).

ls1joe

I have a US Exotics hood it's like the firehawk but 2" taller. I was starting to pull off the lower air box to add the ws6 style when I notice that the person who owned the car before me cut out the bottom of the air box. has any one heard of the and would it even help? I'm also intrested in this kit.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

^^^

That would be the FRA (Free Ram Air) mod and is pretty much useless. Id try and find an in-tact lower airbox if I were you

mellowyellow

iTrader: (11)

How about a group purchase ? Please.......

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

the FRA mod helps a little bit, but if you wanna run this kit then you'll need a new lower airbox, or you could get a FTRA since your airbox is already cut for it and probably get a little more performance then the jaam for a little less money.

Eatinstang4life

iTrader: (10)

No offence or anything but that graph looks like it was made in ms paint

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

The problem with rising IAT's has 10x more to do with the sensor and its location than it does the kind of ram air kit you have. Heatsoak is way more to blame for increased IAT's in traffic because the IAT 1) is surrounded by plastic that retains heat and 2) sits right next to the MAF, which retains more heat.

Relocating the IAT to a position in the airstream right before the air enters the filter will resolve your 'high IAT' issues and will cost you less than $40 for an off-the-shelf extension + new IAT sensor.

jag42420

I'll have to agree to disagree with you there. While I do agree that heat soak keeps you from achieving a perfect outside temperature IAT, sealing, debaffling, and doing the coolant bypass is very effective in lowering IATs. My concern with the JAAM is that it appears to allow hot engine air to enter, similar to the FRA mod.

I logged my IATs both before and after sealing using HPTuners. My IATs were commonly 120-140 in traffic before I sealed, debaffled and did the coolant bypass. I sealed, debaffled, and did the coolant bypass mid summer, and my IATs have not once climbed above 95 in traffic. That's effectively a 25-40 degree temperature drop, without moving anything. My IATs are typically about 10 degrees higher than outside temps sitting in traffic now. BTW - 95% of my driving is below 35mph in town, with stoplights every block or two.

I'd think it would be more accurate for fuel and spark calculations where the air enters the TB, after going through the airbox assembly. Either way, with good tuning I can't see it making a difference either way as the actual air temp would be unaffected.

Getting cooler air in will definitely make a difference, and truely lower IATs for more power and better mileage. I can't see making more power with hotter air regardless of tuning or sensor location. I could put the sensor in a refrigerated box, but the PCM would just be getting false data, and the spark advance would be wasted.

Tainted

iTrader: (9)

id be down if yall came up with a group purcahse and had it for about 160-170$

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

Check out our Thanksgiving special starting at midnight... there might be something to your liking

SSpdDmon

iTrader: (10)

I guess I took it a step further by relocating it in free air just before the filter. If you ever pop the hood while sitting somewhere after you've been idling for 5 minutes and hold your hand on top of the lid (where the MAF sits), you'll feel how hot it gets. Relocating the IAT enabled me to acheive ambient air temps (+ a degree or two) at speed and actual underhood air temps in traffic.

There's a charge temp bias (charge temp blending) table in the tune that accounts for heat transfer in the intake tract. The throttle body would give even worse false readings because it's a huge chunk of metal that gets hotter than the MAF or the lid. Focus on the important part - the air. Air is a very poor conductor of heat. It only absorbs a little off the surfaces it passes over in the intake tract. Yes, more when it's slow. But, it's not like an oven where the air is still. Hell, it takes an oven 10 minutes to preheat if that's any indicator. The power loss from this whole ordeal isn't really in the temp of the air, but more so the perceived temp of the air. In other words, the PCM thinks the air is warmer than it really is, then leans out the fueling, and pulls timing. If you're still running closed loop, you'll see this because the fuel trims will swing positive.

Trust me when I say I've done quite a bit of testing with the IAT. Take my friend's car for example. At the track on an 80* day, he was leaving the line with IAT's in the 120s~130s and 21* of timing instead of the 27* he should have seen (due to the IAT timing table). By the end of the track, his IATs were still in the low 90s. Relocated the IAT and the next pass he left in the high 80s under full timing (27*) and was within 2* of ambient temp. by the 1/8th mile. It's worth doing on an NA car regardless of the kind of ram air kit you have.

Fast Toys Performance Parts

iTrader: (3)

A little birdie told me that this kit is part of our Thanksgiving sale (Thursday only). Get it now!

its turbo time

iTrader: (3)

so where is the best place for your iat to be? pics?