$100 for bolts?
#2
grade 8 bolts are 70$ cheaper and jsut as good. Hell most people re-use their stock bolts with a little anti-seize
*woops no loc-tite for header bolts
*woops no loc-tite for header bolts
Last edited by Tainted; 11-19-2007 at 07:58 PM.
#7
I originally planned on using the new ones that came with my Pacesetters, but when I went to tighten them down, they got kind of mushy on me, so I threw the stockers back on. I'm not cheap by any means, but $100 for some ******' bolts?!?! No way.
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#13
since no one could answer this in another thread where Stage 8's were recommended... how do you use Stage 8 locking header bolts on an LS1?
maybe i'll get an answer in this one.
#14
Its crazy.. I've had my stock bolts on and of 30 times. I've never had an issue. If you want, go to your local bolt store and buy some hardened bolts. You'll spend 20 bucks total.
They are torqued to a max of 18lbft. Its virtually impossible to crossthread them unless you over tighten them.
They are torqued to a max of 18lbft. Its virtually impossible to crossthread them unless you over tighten them.
#15
You dont even need the locking style. All you need is standard grade 8 "metric" bolts. ANY nut/bolt store is gonna have them.
#16
i just want an answer on how to use the locking bolts on an LS1 when the bolt holes are smack inbetween the primaries.
#17
There is a SS flange that slips into a groove on the bolt itself. The flange itself stops the bolt from backing out by being stoppped by the primay tube. I've had the bolts for like five years without an exhaust lead. Many bolts start to work their way out because of the constant expansion and contraction of the heads and headers.