Seat of the Pants Bolt Ons?
#1
Seat of the Pants Bolt Ons?
I have the mods in my sig. My parents are getting me UMI 3 Point Bolt in SFC's for Christmas. I have around $500, plus once Christmas rolls around, I'll have more, but what are some bolt ons that I can do and give me a SOTP gain? Or should I keep saving and get a H/C pack? Also, can any of you guys tell me about how much horsepower I have at the crank and wheels with my current set up?
Last edited by 0235SS93; 11-21-2007 at 04:50 PM.
#2
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I would go for some MAC long tube headers and Y pipe. You should be able to pick up a set on EBAY for 550.00 with the Y pipe included. The other option would be an LS6 intake or maybe a dry shot zex nitrous system.
#5
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Throw in the fact that MAC's are midlengths, NOT longtubes, and if you pay a dime over $200 for MAC's with y-pipe, you're getting ripped Buying them new is a mistake as they're more expensive than longtubes, all for less gains.
To the OP: if I were you, I'd get my throttle body ported, get a Fast Toys Ram Air kit, and then a nice dynotune. That'll run you about $500. All three of those mods should net you ~30-40 horsepower or so (figure 5-10 rwhp for the ported TB, 10-15 rwhp for the FTRA at cruising speeds and 15-20 rwhp for the tune). Don't even think about putting that $500 towards a H/C setup because a quality H/C setup will cost you $1,500+, plus install and tuning.
To the OP: if I were you, I'd get my throttle body ported, get a Fast Toys Ram Air kit, and then a nice dynotune. That'll run you about $500. All three of those mods should net you ~30-40 horsepower or so (figure 5-10 rwhp for the ported TB, 10-15 rwhp for the FTRA at cruising speeds and 15-20 rwhp for the tune). Don't even think about putting that $500 towards a H/C setup because a quality H/C setup will cost you $1,500+, plus install and tuning.
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#9
ok thanks! I have been thinking about porting my throttle body and doing the bump stop mod, as my dad has a car business and plenty of tools!!! The only reason I haven't done it already is because I'm a little scared I'll screw something up! As for the FTRA, I already have the SLP version of this! And, I thought that there was no place close to get a dynotune, but I found one 45 min from m house, and he's a good, well-respected tuner in the area, so now all I have to do is contact him!
#10
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I'm having my throttle body P & P by a member on here for $80. He is also doing the bump stop and knife edge the butterfly. I figure thats a good price for the work done and the fact he's done hundrends of these, knows better than me what to do.
#13
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Exactly. A stall should be your first mod. Outside of nos, a good aftermarket torque convertor is the best sotp mod you can do for an A4. It won't help your dyno numbers, but it sure will help on the street and the track.
Also, if you get your tb ported, make sure it's done correctly. The A4's can be alot more picky than the m6's with this mod. When I had mine done, my car had all kinds of idling, surging, and start up problems. Went back to stock and I've never looked back.
Last edited by Gary98Z; 11-22-2007 at 11:47 AM.
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I'd say put that money towards a nice stall. I've never had an A4 car so I don't know if you can get a Yank or another good quality stall for 500 or not. I say try porting the throttle body yourself, if you screw if up (thats hard to do) then you can just get another TB off of someone on here for cheap.
#16
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To the OP: if I were you, I'd get my throttle body ported, get a Fast Toys Ram Air kit, and then a nice dynotune. That'll run you about $500. All three of those mods should net you ~30-40 horsepower or so (figure 5-10 rwhp for the ported TB, 10-15 rwhp for the FTRA at cruising speeds and 15-20 rwhp for the tune). Don't even think about putting that $500 towards a H/C setup because a quality H/C setup will cost you $1,500+, plus install and tuning.
FTRA=$169.99 + shipping
DynoTune=$400.00-500.00 for a good tune from a shop that knows LSx engines.
...That seems to be a bit over $500 last time I checked my math but still a good a good route to go in terms of mods unless the original poster of this thread does plan on running a heads/cam package in the near future, then it would be wise to wait because why pay $400-500 twice in a short amount of time, espeecially if you are strapped for cash.
And to whoever said its going to be way more for heads and cam, you are wrong unless you get the best of the best. Those AFR heads are one of the most expensive but very high quality heads on the market for LSx engines. You can get a great setup from TSP for under $1500 and many people do because they do not have the money to run the best of the best.
A stall would be a good option or go for what was mentioned above because both will help you out but the above option will be more then $500.
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Vigilente makes some nice stalls.
I think they're around 700-ish new, depending on how serious you want it.
I bought my 3200 Vig used for 300 bucks.
Through on some drag radials, brake torque to 2500rpms (if the brakes or the rear tires will hold) then let her buck!
I think they're around 700-ish new, depending on how serious you want it.
I bought my 3200 Vig used for 300 bucks.
Through on some drag radials, brake torque to 2500rpms (if the brakes or the rear tires will hold) then let her buck!
#19
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And to whoever said its going to be way more for heads and cam, you are wrong unless you get the best of the best. Those AFR heads are one of the most expensive but very high quality heads on the market for LSx engines. You can get a great setup from TSP for under $1500 and many people do because they do not have the money to run the best of the best.
IMO, while the TSP heads aren't bad, they are "budget" heads to me. He said "quality" heads/cam setup, and AFRs fall into that category.
Another thing that brings that total higher is it's not as simple as buying a pair of heads and a new bumpstick. You also need the correct length push rods, new gaskets, and most everyone will also install an UD pulley at this time cause it's a free install. Then your likely gonna need some larger injectors, and in some cases a fuel pump. Don't forget about at minimum an LS2 timing chain, and a ported oil pump for the guys that have 98-00 cars.
In the end, there's the cheap way, and the correct way. To me, if it's worth doing at all, it's worth doing right.
My .02
#20
Stall converter.......hands down: end of discussion.....You said seat of the pants bolt on. You have an A4.....since you already have LT's and a lid, a stall is the next thing for SOTP dollar's worth. Make sure you have SFC's under it. Andy