Poly motor mounts
Poly motor mounts I am getting poly motor mounts so by exhaust will finally stop banging. I didnt think about getting them while i was installing my headers. So is it possibly to install the motor mounts with pacesetter long tubes in the way? Or do i have to take them out?
Putting poly mounts on my car was a very stressful experience. It took me hours and hours to pry the motor over to put the bolts through the mounts. I had the exhaust out, but I have heard of people doing it with the exhaust in. If you don't have a lot of experience installing mounts, it's probably going to be very hard with the exhaust in the way. Remember that you have to drill the old mounts out of the shells.
yeah i actually just read a write up about it. It looks like a long and difficult project. But I have to learn someone how. Might as well start on a friday night and see how long it will take me. Will this for sure fix my y pipe banging my floorboard?
There have probably been about 6 threads about mounts within the last week. Do a quick search and you'll find all the information you ever wanted to know.
I installed my Spohn solid mounts with my 1-7/8 Grot headers in. Once the alternator and compressor/bracket is out of the way they should be easy to get to. I installed them on a lift and with air tools but I still think it's a very straight forward job. I didn't find it difficult at all. Solids do not have to be welded in. They replace the entire mount and are bolt in, where as Protane's are just the inserts to the stock mounts. Both work great, you're not going to go wrong with either one.
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I installed my Spohn solid mounts with my 1-7/8 Grot headers in. Once the alternator and compressor/bracket is out of the way they should be easy to get to. I installed them on a lift and with air tools but I still think it's a very straight forward job. I didn't find it difficult at all. Solids do not have to be welded in. They replace the entire mount and are bolt in, where as Protane's are just the inserts to the stock mounts. Both work great, you're not going to go wrong with either one.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...350&highlight=
the install isnt really that difficult its just kinda time cumsuming at least it was for me youll need a vice for drilling them out and to put them back together i had to use it to sqeeze the two shells back toghter so they would sit flush with eachother cause the polys are alot bigger than stock ones i would take the headers off gives you so much more room
i had to use a two foot pry bar to push the motor over so i could line up the bolt holes dont think i could have done that with the headers on and tighten a couple bolts all the way sure it can be done with them in though but i just waited till i had them off to do it
a good mod my motor used to move all over the place at idle and when youd blurp the throtle, dosent move at all now feals alittle stiffer now and responsive, car shakes more at idle now which looks mean as hell
i had to use a two foot pry bar to push the motor over so i could line up the bolt holes dont think i could have done that with the headers on and tighten a couple bolts all the way sure it can be done with them in though but i just waited till i had them off to do it
a good mod my motor used to move all over the place at idle and when youd blurp the throtle, dosent move at all now feals alittle stiffer now and responsive, car shakes more at idle now which looks mean as hell
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easy for the most part but time consuming when the manifolds / headers are out of the way.
also had to move around the alternator and a/c compressor but its mostly time consuming.
prying / burning off the stock rubber took forever! like literally one hour for each side of drilling/prying/piecing together.
also do one side at a time so you dont mix them up at all, losen up the tranny mount as well so the engine can move alittle more.
well worth it though and almost everyone will need to do it to prevent the engine from rocking like crazy.
also had to move around the alternator and a/c compressor but its mostly time consuming.
prying / burning off the stock rubber took forever! like literally one hour for each side of drilling/prying/piecing together.
also do one side at a time so you dont mix them up at all, losen up the tranny mount as well so the engine can move alittle more.
well worth it though and almost everyone will need to do it to prevent the engine from rocking like crazy.
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with stock manifolds on...it took me 10hrs on my back...alone...to do the mounts.
most of that was positioning and moving them around to get them out/in and alignment correct.
having installed headers after the mounts...i can't imagine trying to do them with LTs in!!
i think i'd pull them out, at least unbolt them and move them off to the side to give yourself some room.
the mount cured my problems....i now have 1/4" of clearance with my exhaust and the frame...and don't hit.
most of that was positioning and moving them around to get them out/in and alignment correct.
having installed headers after the mounts...i can't imagine trying to do them with LTs in!!
i think i'd pull them out, at least unbolt them and move them off to the side to give yourself some room.
the mount cured my problems....i now have 1/4" of clearance with my exhaust and the frame...and don't hit.
i went to this performance place to price getting a cam a headers installed and i metioned getting poly motors mounts installed and he said he would have to drop the K member. Is that true?
Only if he wants to charge you more for it. There really is no reason to drop the kmember to put them in. Granted it could be easier but just taking the kmember out and putting it back in seems unnecessary to me. Im going to be doing mounts this weekend when my tranny is out while doing an auto to manual conversion so it should be pretty easy.
I changed from stock to poly and then poly to solid. I like the feel of the solid mounts. Both are painfull to install if you are by yourself. An extra set of hands would cut the install time considerably.
The poly mounts are a excellent upgrade and cured my problem with the Y Pipe hitting the floorboard. It's going to take a few hours to and you can do it without removing the k member.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Corpus Christi
u could probably buy the mounts at a junk yard for arouns $20 then u can swap rubber insert with poly ones, this way all u will need is to replace one for one and that down time while swapping insets is cut out once u start removing monts from car.... I did this, now I need to make time for actual motor mount swap. probably this weekend..
Poly for a DD/weekend racer.
With solids, that engine is really going to shake the car. Polys will absorb some of that vibration, but not as much as the stockers.
"a good mod my motor used to move all over the place at idle and when youd blurp the throtle, dosent move at all now feals alittle stiffer now and responsive, car shakes more at idle now which looks mean as hell"
so did mine.. i also changed my mounts when doing the kmember install...easy but time consuming...took about 2hrs or so w/ me and my buddy
-brandon
so did mine.. i also changed my mounts when doing the kmember install...easy but time consuming...took about 2hrs or so w/ me and my buddy
-brandon
