This has been the Jet Hot LT Header/Hooker ORY-pipe install from Hell! I installed my Jet-Hots at the end of March and I STILL haven’t solved my SES light problems! I even fouled the original O2 sensors so bad that the car ran VERY rough. Here’s what I’ve done to try and correct the SES light and the other problems associated it:

-Replaced the stock clamps with 3” wide, 3” in diameter band clamps
-Grinded down the O2 bungs to get the O2 sensors further into the exhaust stream
-Replaced the O2 sensors with new ones that have a 42” pigtail so I could eliminate the O2 extensions
-Installed MAFT to lean the car out
-Made sure no wires are pinched or burned anywhere.
-Made sure I don’t have any exhaust leaks at the header/EGR/AIR gaskets

When I re-used the stock O2’s, they started throwing the “Slow Response” codes for both front O2’s…they later switched to throwing the “Insufficient Switching” codes for both front O2’s and then the car started running so badly that it would miss until the SES light came back on and it ran in open loop mode.

I JUST replaced the O2’s with the new ones that have 42” pigtails and I’m already throwing the “Slow Response” codes for both banks and it’s been less than a 100 miles since I replaced them. I thought I had burned wires for the passenger side O2, but now that I’m throwing “Slow Response” code on the driver’s side as well now, I don’t think replacing the O2 wiring would help.

What am I missing? Has anyone else had as much trouble as I’m having and if so, what finally solved the problems? I’m just sick that I’ve now sunk almost $1000 with the headers, MAFT, and new O2 sensors and the car hasn’t run well since. If I can just get the car to run well, I’d almost be willing to forgive Jet-Hot for the fitment issues. Of course I have a banging Y-pipe, they rub the K-member on the driver’s side and run so close to the heater box on the passenger side that it’s melting. I am NOT a happy camper!

So what should I try next to solve SES light problem? I’m NOT spending another $500 on tuning or true dual exhaust…I’ll remove the headers before I spend $500 to correct a product that’s supposed to be “market ready” already. I’ve contacted Jet-Hot several times and they pretty much said “Good luck” in trying to fix it. My last email, where I inquired about returning the headers for a full refund if I can’t solve my problems, was never replied to

 

I had the same problem with my SLP's. The only thing that helped me was I put exhaust sealing compound (silkolene) on all the joints that got clamped together. Once it heats up the compound slightly expands and fills all gaps. I haven't thrown an SES(P0135 P0155) since then.

 

I would trace all the O2 wires back to the PCM to be certain thAt wiring isnt your problem. Thats what it does sound like.. a short somewhere.

 

I didn use silicone on all joints, and yes, I used "Sensor Safe" copper colored RTV.

 

I was thinking the wiring as well because when I 1st installed the new sensors, the first 3 times I got the SES, it was only the passenger side O2, so I thought it might be the wiring on that side. Last night I started setting the SES light for BOTH O2's (0135 & 0155), so that's why I'm not questioning the wiring any longer...it took almost 60 miles to set off the SES on the driver's side.

Also, as long as I just run around town, I don't set the SES light, it ONLY happens at cruise speeds after about 10 miles on the interstate. So if the wiring is bad, why is it fine around town, but then I set the SES on the interstate?

 

first i've heard of this. my initial thought was you got some anti-seize on the O2, but that was clarified.

LMK, putting mine on in a month.

Chris

 

I had similar problems with macs . I finally had the codes turned off . Now every thing is cool .

 

All the long tube headers throw the same codes because the o2 sensors are moved way down stream. I find that removing those codes with ls1 edit is the only solution. However, I would get rid of those Jet Hot headers for something else. Fitment is the worst I have seen with any LS1 header, and I have seen a lot. My friend just swapped his for a set of TTS headers like mine, which are a huge fitment improved, and also have a three bolt flange instead of the slip over style. Easy to seal up with a copper gasket.

 

I was throwing the codes until I replaced the 02 sensors (all 4) and never threw the codes again. If you have auto tap - graf the front and rear 02s and watch for when they stop switching.

 

From my understanding, sensor safe RTV will still kill O2 sensors. Never suppose to use RTV on exhaust upstream from O2's. This is what I've been told. The stuff I used 'Silkolene' is nothing close to silicone, its a exhaust sealing compound and has no other function. We use it strictly for marine exhaust componets at my work, so I took some home and gave it a try and it worked. The stuff has the consistancy of snot, but once it heats up, it turns almost foam like.

 

sorry to hear about your lt header install from hell! just got my jet hot lt's and my true dual set up and thank god no problems yet! everything went in so easyly and no rubbing to anyparts of the car. mines a 2002 z m6 and the dude from jet hot said my headers is supposevely the newer designed. i also used the flow master ball type flanged no leaks @ all and u get more gound clearance. all i can say is my jethots sounds sweet wit my true dual set up. i spent about $1,100 from headers all the way back to my turndowns. good luck wit yours!

 

I haven't used any silicone upstream of the O2's, it's all downstream.

It's been brought to my attention that there is one possibility that I've missed. My Jet-Hot's have the AIR and EGR tubes and I hooked both systems back up since I have a '98, but it's been mentioned that my AIR system might be causing problems. I did check the gaskets (no leaks), but I haven't inspected the check valves. I made block off plates tonight and I plan to install them tomorrow and see what that does, but I have a question:

If I just place a block off plate between the AIR tube and the header, and then unplug the hoses from the check valves so the pump can still operate normally (blow air), will that still set a code?

Here's my reasoning on why it MIGHT be the AIR system. I'm now back to setting the "Insufficient Switching" codes instead of the "Slow Response" codes. It's been mentioned in the past that "Insufficient Switching" codes usually indicate a leak in the system. However, P0410 also is listed a lot of times I get these codes...I just thought that was normal. I had just replaced the AIR pump check valves about a month before I did the header install, so I presumed they were fine. I also didn't do the mod to reduce the hole size for the AIR tubes and from what I understand, LT headers can burn up check valves VERY quickly. If I have a check valve that's burned up and it's stuck open, then would that allow air to get into the headers and wreak this havoc on my O2 sensors? If so, then a block off plate might be what I need, correct?

 

Yep it could, you can also try the mod method after if the block off stopd the madness, then just mod the gasket for the air and work with it.

Sorry to hear your problems, I read all the posts from here on other peoples install, I ground down the Kmember a tad (didnt have to--hate hind site), and other than that no issues with heater box, or sensor activity.

Good-luck.

 

Update:

I just installed the new AIR tube block off plates, re-set the computer and went for a drive. The SES light usually comes on after about 10-15 miles of interstate driving, but I just drove 25 miles and the light did NOT come back on. However, when I got home and hooked up ATap, I did have 2 pending codes. The driver side O2 had "Slow Response" pending and the passenger side O2 still had "Insufficient Switching", BUT when I checked the log, both of those pending codes were tripped after only 2 miles, so I'm wondering if the O2's might have been a little fouled, but now that it's running better (not as rich), could the O2's be cleaning themselves off? If the pending codes were tripped after only 2 miles, but not again, how often does the computer run the O2 tests to check for "Insufficient Switching" or "Slow Response"?

I went ahead and cleared the pending codes, and I'll put several more miles on it this week and see what happens.

One thing that's puzzling though is that both check valves seem fine. I can still blow through them in the air flow direction and not the other way around, so they're fine.

 

ALL my O2 codes started reappearing yesterday. I've got O2 "Slow Response" and "Insufficient Switching" in both banks.

I'm not back to the title of this thread...NOW WHAT?

 

I thought it might be my wiring for a little while, but once I started spitting codes for both O2's, I dismissed that possiblility, but now I'm thinking I might want to take a 2nd look at it. My wires are wrapped in heat protective wrap that run beside the passenger side header, but they do run VERY close to it. If the wires are burned on that side, could it cause codes to be set for both side O2's?

Could ONE O2 wire grounding out cause BOTH O2's to throw codes? If so, are the "Slow Response" and then "Insufficient Switching" codes burned wires would throw?

 

Please post up when you find the problem my slps
are doing the same thing.

 

TTT Any ideas here? I have the same problem and the search hasn't been too helpful. POS flowtech headers here.

 

Unless the AIR connections were leaking they should have nothing to do with it since the AIR pump shuts off after a minute.

Mine was throwing the insufficient switching codes , first for one bank, then for both - but I replaced all four and have not had the problem since. The 02 sensors need air to come in through the wiring harness so make sure the wires are straight and clear, and they need to get hot - so you might put a heat sock (for plug wires) over them to keep them hot. What kind of sensors did you get for the replacement?

 

might want to check the o2 bungs, when installing the paceshitters on my friends car, the o2 bungs were drilled offset a bit and the o2 sensor would get smashed when you screw it in give an ses light, drilled that crap out and put a new sensor in, no codes. check the bung holes(haha) visually.