Proposed solution to getting colder air into the engine.
#1
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After doing the throttle body coolant bypass, my throttle body was a heckuva lot cooler than before.
But how about doing one better? Running freon through where the engine coolant used to run? I know this will be a major problem for those in cold weather, but I live in sunny Southern California where cold is really not an issue. I think if we run freon through the TB, colder air will get into the engine.
However, colder air after the IAT really doesn't matter because the intake air temp at the IAT will still be high. I recorded a normal drive around town with ATAP and the IAT was over 100* in traffic and never saw below 85*. This is with my ram-air hood pushing cold air into the intake. I read that the LS1's have maximum timing when the intake temperature is 52*. Most don't care what the intake temp is for around-town driving, but what about at the race track? You can trailer your car there, turn it on for the last minute jsut enough to stage, run, get a good time and thats it for the rest of the day. Your intake will still be hot even after a good long time.
Most of us use ice to cool down the lids before a run so we can get nice cool air for a good run, but how about doing one better? Runing freon from the existing air conditioning lines through the throttle body and routing more lines all the way down the intake tract, cooling down the entire air intake system.
Now this is just some thoughts that I had. I don't know if this can work because I don't know what the tolerances are of the air conditioning system or if the passages in the throttle body are too small or whatever, but these are my thoughts on it.
I would LOVE to hear what the pros and cons would be as I am seriously thinking about doing this.
So let's hear it everyone!
But how about doing one better? Running freon through where the engine coolant used to run? I know this will be a major problem for those in cold weather, but I live in sunny Southern California where cold is really not an issue. I think if we run freon through the TB, colder air will get into the engine.
However, colder air after the IAT really doesn't matter because the intake air temp at the IAT will still be high. I recorded a normal drive around town with ATAP and the IAT was over 100* in traffic and never saw below 85*. This is with my ram-air hood pushing cold air into the intake. I read that the LS1's have maximum timing when the intake temperature is 52*. Most don't care what the intake temp is for around-town driving, but what about at the race track? You can trailer your car there, turn it on for the last minute jsut enough to stage, run, get a good time and thats it for the rest of the day. Your intake will still be hot even after a good long time.
Most of us use ice to cool down the lids before a run so we can get nice cool air for a good run, but how about doing one better? Runing freon from the existing air conditioning lines through the throttle body and routing more lines all the way down the intake tract, cooling down the entire air intake system.
Now this is just some thoughts that I had. I don't know if this can work because I don't know what the tolerances are of the air conditioning system or if the passages in the throttle body are too small or whatever, but these are my thoughts on it.
I would LOVE to hear what the pros and cons would be as I am seriously thinking about doing this.
So let's hear it everyone!
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Its not the freon that makes the AC work, its the pressure release that makes the high pressure area (evaporator) cool down.
I'm not air conditioning expert, but I know this wont work.
Eric
I'm not air conditioning expert, but I know this wont work.
Eric
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Yes the timing tricker does make the PCM think the incoming air is 52*, but that doesn't mean the air is actually cooler... A friend told me that if the PCM is putting more fuel in for colder air but is really using much hotter air, it will make the engine ping.
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By the way, even if you could get it to work it would get you kicked off the drag strip for dripping condensation, and it may have 0 gain on the street because the increased radiator temps from the condensor preheating the air.
Eric
Eric
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There are plenty of other areas to mod. I think you're barking up the wrong tree. As far as the TB bypass mod, I think it's bs. There's no point.
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There isn't enough surface area to really make any difference. You could run the air thru an A/C coil, but it would have to have alot of surface area to keep from adding any restrictions (alot like a aftercooler). To make it work you would have to cool it down then turn the compressor off for your run but it would warm up real fast. It's a good idea and the kind of thinking that makes us go faster in the long run. I would be a real pita to fabricate. Make it work.
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DaleMX pretty much summed it up. After I did the TB bypass, I started wonder along the same lines.
Remember the cool cans used on the older carbed engines? Well that's what I did. I took a old windshield washer resevior and plumbed it to my TB. I put alcohol and ice in the resevior and would flip a switch to circulate it.
After all the trouble to think it out, then do it {wasn't out much money as I had most of the stuff already}, I did not gain ****.
I tried several runs both ways on my GTech. Didn't show squat! I was rather dissapointed, I was hopeing my little dealy would work out. O-well
I really don't think you can cool the air down fast enough to work. Think about it, air is flowing in at a pretty good clip {at least 700-800cfm}. Air is also not all that great of a conductor. You just can't cool it fast enough.
BTW DaleMX, I would like to see your car. I'm thinking about a FF Cobra in a couple of years. I would like to tlak to someone who has been though the registration in Ga. I live up near the outlet malls on Hwy400. I've got a black 2000 Formula Firehawk with gunmetal grey wheels . Say hello if you ever see me.
Remember the cool cans used on the older carbed engines? Well that's what I did. I took a old windshield washer resevior and plumbed it to my TB. I put alcohol and ice in the resevior and would flip a switch to circulate it.
After all the trouble to think it out, then do it {wasn't out much money as I had most of the stuff already}, I did not gain ****.
I tried several runs both ways on my GTech. Didn't show squat! I was rather dissapointed, I was hopeing my little dealy would work out. O-well
I really don't think you can cool the air down fast enough to work. Think about it, air is flowing in at a pretty good clip {at least 700-800cfm}. Air is also not all that great of a conductor. You just can't cool it fast enough.
BTW DaleMX, I would like to see your car. I'm thinking about a FF Cobra in a couple of years. I would like to tlak to someone who has been though the registration in Ga. I live up near the outlet malls on Hwy400. I've got a black 2000 Formula Firehawk with gunmetal grey wheels . Say hello if you ever see me.
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I work in the A/C business, so let me throw something into the mix on this subject. to cool off 700 cfm of air 20-25 degrees would require removing about 24,000 btu's of heat. that means on an 80 degree day you would wind up with 60 degree air. most automotive a/c systems are only good for about 12,000 btu's. also, you'd have to put an a/c evaporator plus all the plumbing in the airstream somewhere as you couldn't possibly remove that much heat via the throttle body. one more thought: you'd have to run the a/c to get that 25 degree drop. next time you're on a dyno, click the a/c on and check the drop in horsepower. I did it once on a 73 f-body and it sucked up 12 horses from the rear wheels. ![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
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