98 camaro ss first mods?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8
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From: st. louis missouri
98 camaro ss first mods? i have around 1000 dollars maybe a little more. i will be buying the mod when i get a job. i have a flowmaster cat back system on it right now and some kind of cheap lid. i am looking for some good power out of a bolt on. it has 63000 miles on it.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 303
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From: eastern ky
well do some of the free mods delete the air and egr, cut out the bottem of the air box lid and then i would invest into a set of lt's and a ory which will run around 500 with pacesetters (check out texas speed) so with the other 500 i would probley do the ls6 intake, unless yours has been changed over the ls6 will flow better than your stock ls1, you can find them from about $300 to $350 used on here usually.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Chandler, Az
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i say LT's and probably a cat y since you have the flow crapper, it sounds like poop with an ORY, tune it up with some plugs and wires, take off the emissions, and use the leftover money for a tune
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From: Los Angeles, California (818)
i say do all supsension, then after u have the car with good suspension get to the engine, in the mean time do the free mods, and wast all the money on suspension, believe i did the engine first, and almost killed myself when my car could hook anymore
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: In your sisters panties
Plugs/wires, flush the coolant, replace the fuel filter, throw in some full system cleaner AND fuel injector cleaner (2 seperate bottles), oil change, check belts, change the rear Diff fluid. If it is an auto, flush the tranny. Check brakes (lines, fluid, ect)
I say change teh rear diff fluid b/c the gaskets do leak a little. I do mine EVERY 6K miles, some say it is a waste of money; i have 88K miles on my ORIGIONAL 3.42 rear, i want to keep it from going "BOOM", it doesn't hurt to do it.
I'm also having my manual tranny oil changed. You don't have to do this, but again, i have 88K miles on it and i want to change it to get out any metal shavings that might have collected in there. Again; cheap insurance and keeps older parts working longer.
This may seem like over kill but it is a USED SPORTS CAR; you have no idea how the origional owner treated it no matter what they told you. U also want to get a nice base line so you can manage your own maintance interval. Performance parts don't do dick if the car doesn't run; parts are like domino's, when one "falls" it normally takes a **** load with it....
hello, i've got a mag article "ls1 dos and donts" pm me a fax number if you want a copy. lid, catback, long tubes (if legal). for traction, lower control arms, sub frame connectors. then tune. good luck.
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 453
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From: 415 Northern CA
Plugs/wires, flush the coolant, replace the fuel filter, throw in some full system cleaner AND fuel injector cleaner (2 seperate bottles), oil change, check belts, change the rear Diff fluid. If it is an auto, flush the tranny. Check brakes (lines, fluid, ect)
I say change teh rear diff fluid b/c the gaskets do leak a little. I do mine EVERY 6K miles, some say it is a waste of money; i have 88K miles on my ORIGIONAL 3.42 rear, i want to keep it from going "BOOM", it doesn't hurt to do it.
I'm also having my manual tranny oil changed. You don't have to do this, but again, i have 88K miles on it and i want to change it to get out any metal shavings that might have collected in there. Again; cheap insurance and keeps older parts working longer.
This may seem like over kill but it is a USED SPORTS CAR; you have no idea how the origional owner treated it no matter what they told you. U also want to get a nice base line so you can manage your own maintance interval. Performance parts don't do dick if the car doesn't run; parts are like domino's, when one "falls" it normally takes a **** load with it....
