what is considered a FULL bolt on car?
-Kris
headers, full exhaust, lid, intake manifold, throttle body, underdrive pully, all the free mods, and a tune
anything that doesn't require you to pull the heads off or the front cover(internals of the motor).
don't forget how much upgraded suspension helps put what power you do have at the wheels. you can upgrade the suspension all you want and can still say its a bolt-on car

hope that helped
headers, full exhaust, lid, intake manifold, throttle body, underdrive pully, all the free mods, and a tune
anything that doesn't require you to pull the heads off or the front cover(internals of the motor).
don't forget how much upgraded suspension helps put what power you do have at the wheels. you can upgrade the suspension all you want and can still say its a bolt-on car

hope that helped
i have long tubes, full exhaust, LS6 intake, P&P TB, Bellow, SLP Lid about to put on some plugs and wires so guess all i need now is UD pully and suspension?
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Should have lid, IM(ls6), UDP, LT headers, cat-back, sfcs, LCAs and a stall if A4.
EWP is overated IMO. A good mod to polish off a great setup, but not one of the first modifications that should be done by any means.
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I almost put that down, but I wouldn't recommend anyone swaping out the stock gears. If you want a steeper gear ratio, get a 9" or 12 bolt. Otherwise you are just droping money into a sinking ship.
Last edited by landonew; May 17, 2008 at 04:17 PM.
I consider my car nearly full-bolton. The only thing I don't have is an EWP, which I don't plan to do.
My Take:
Full exhaust:
- Headers
- Off road Y or lead pipes, OR high flow cats
- cat back
Full induction:
- CAI or lid
- MAF (somewhat subjective, it is a bolt-on but most won't do it)
- Bellows area (cars with the 90 degree bend (gto, cts-v) really need to address this more than you guys with the straight back configuration)
- Ported of upgraded TB
- Upgraded intake manifold
Accessories area
- Under Drive Harmonic Balancer
- Electric Water Pump
Tune
My $0.02,
Chris







