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160 thermo did nothing.

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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 10:52 AM
  #1  
02yellowls1's Avatar
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From: indian head, maryland
Default 160 thermo did nothing.

i installed my hypertech 160 thermostat. used my diablo to tune my fans to come on at 170 and 176. the car still runs at 205. anyone know of anything else i was supposed to do?
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 11:49 AM
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Are you looking at the gauge? I haven't had my fan on/off points done yet but... sheet I saw said 166 and 175?

I was at the track yesterday and a Z owner had his Diablo hooked up and it was reading 185 degrees although his gauge said 205ish. They aren't accurate but he did say even in the 180's it is 20 degrees lower than what he saw stock on the Diablo.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 11:50 AM
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Did you burp the system?
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 12:01 PM
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Whats burping the system? I have the same issue
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 12:05 PM
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If your looking at your gauge your wasting your time. The gauge on 2000+ cars are dummy gauges and read a constant temp when at normal operating temp.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 12:07 PM
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your car will over heat if you need to burp the system. Personally, i havent swaped out my stock thermostat.. they run from the factory warm for a reason
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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It's because after 98 all f-bodys got dummy gauges that read 205 all the time and only change when it's overheating.So your car is runing cooler you just can't tell unless u have a scantool.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 12:13 PM
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exactly^^^
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 01:32 PM
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or a better guage
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 03:35 PM
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It's gonna keep showing that because like the rest of the ppl said... You have dumby guage... You can just add the guage pods and add an accurate one there.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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Wonder if someone like Casper's Electronics can rework it to read accurate?
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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brup the system what does that mean I just added a 160 same thing hypertech but mines it like rises to like 260 if I am at a drive through or something then goes right back down when I start driving first I thought I needed a flush then they were like the radiator cap was hot then the water in the other side was cold they were like no way the water is suppose to be hot also and none of the local shops want to flush it they are like you got to buy a new radiator because that thing is clogged.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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The 99 and up stock gauges get the temp reading from the 2 wire ECT sensor, then PCM, then to the gauge. People have been looking for a "fix" for the stock gauge years.

Chevy if you car was fine before sounds like air in the system. Start the car cold, radiator cap off - wait for the level to drop when the tstat opens and keep adding coolant.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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Burp it you have air. You can do this by taking the cap off a couple of times with engine off after running or pull the TB coolant line. Install University shows how they do it.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:54 PM
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ok since no one has told yall how to "burp" haha its called bleeding the cooloing system. after you removed your thermostat and put a new one in you have just created a huge air gap in a closed system. best thing to do is either remove the cap on the radiator OR on the reservoir and turn on the car while its cold. have a bucket of water or 50/50 dexcool just incase your low. turn the heater on full blast. as it heats up and there is no cap to create pressure the system will look like its fillin up put the cap on and leave it there then remove the cap. you do this a few times and the air pockets will escape the system. this is the way i did it everytime i changed out a water pump or anything that had to do with the coolin system and never had a comeback at the shop i was at. rev the car up to 1500-2000 rpms and watch the gauge. when it starts goin up let off the gas and let the thermostat open and it will cool back down. remove cap and check level. add if needed and repeat until it doesnt over heat. some times these ls motors will take an hour or only 15 minutes once car is warmed up. it just depends. hope this helped.

now as far as the dummy gauge i have no clue what yall are talkin abt. my gauge as fluctuates like it should.
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:05 PM
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if I had air in the system wouldent it have collapsed my hoses that's what one guy told me at the shop he was like if there was air bubbles in the motor because they thermostat was changed then it would callapse the houses
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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No it wouldn't. Never did that both times I had to BURP mine LOL
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:52 PM
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take your cap off, run it for 20-30 min, top off the fluid and your done. basically you just need to get the air out of the system. another trick with the ls1 is to fill the block back up through the upper hose then install it, then fill the radiator. by doing this you let most of the air out. done it 2-3 times and it works great and is fast
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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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took to my buddy in fresno we flushed it out clean put some of that cleaner stuff through it then filled with water turned on the heat full blast for about ten mins did that twice then filled up with fresh dexcool thing works perfect now thanks for the help
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Old Jul 4, 2008 | 12:50 AM
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yyyyaaayyyy areeeaaaaaaaa... its a shame you guys got the worst emission laws... one reason i wont move back home
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