qtp cutout problem
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
qtp cutout problem ok guys here is the deal
a few months ago i bought a qtp SS cut out...the steal was in great..everything looked good, until i looked into the cut out and realized that in the area where the cut out meets the other pipe..the hole is poorly cut...out of all the available space for the hole, only about 40% is used..So my question is what can i use to get in there and grind/cut that excess metal off.
if you guys need pictures to full understand all my technical terms
let me know
a few months ago i bought a qtp SS cut out...the steal was in great..everything looked good, until i looked into the cut out and realized that in the area where the cut out meets the other pipe..the hole is poorly cut...out of all the available space for the hole, only about 40% is used..So my question is what can i use to get in there and grind/cut that excess metal off.
if you guys need pictures to full understand all my technical terms
let me know 
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 503
Likes: 54
From: TX
Maybe Im not understanding exactly what you are saying. But it sounds like there is a lip where the blade meets the body? If so thats the way its supposed to be, that way when it closes there are no leaks.
Can you post a pic?
Can you post a pic?
If I understand this, you have a Y with a crappy
merge (or fork) and you need to open it up.
I did this to my present Jet-Hot Y-pipe that had
a pipe-to-pipe stick-in problem. What I did was
get a flex-shaft tool (Jacobs chuck, handle and
a speedo cable type drive) and snake it through
a piece of shop-vac pickup tube and tape it in
with duct tape. This gives you reach and some
leverage. Run it off your hand drill. Get a ball
stone or a tulip style carbide burr (try Ace Hdwr
for local, in the welding supplies) and just hog
on it. The burr will last longer and cost more.
Of course if you take off the cutout and can
get right at it, substitute a die grinder or the
electric drill without all the hokiness.
merge (or fork) and you need to open it up.
I did this to my present Jet-Hot Y-pipe that had
a pipe-to-pipe stick-in problem. What I did was
get a flex-shaft tool (Jacobs chuck, handle and
a speedo cable type drive) and snake it through
a piece of shop-vac pickup tube and tape it in
with duct tape. This gives you reach and some
leverage. Run it off your hand drill. Get a ball
stone or a tulip style carbide burr (try Ace Hdwr
for local, in the welding supplies) and just hog
on it. The burr will last longer and cost more.
Of course if you take off the cutout and can
get right at it, substitute a die grinder or the
electric drill without all the hokiness.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
sorry..the 40% is an exaggeration..but as you see...there is alot to be gained..the cut out is not mounted yet to the Y..i am working on getting headers..then everything will go on...just want everything to be ready to go
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well i am still going to try to clean it up. I hope their headers arent that shitty in quality when i get them. I wish someone would start bookmarking all of the threads with QTP products and lousy quality for when the haters of the ebay stuff start talking about "you get what you pay for".
On The Tree
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 150
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
I have a qtp e-cutout installed on my car. Maybe its my imagination but Ive had this cutout for about a year, I always have it on the loudest and for some odd reason its sounds a bit quieter.
Maybe Im used to the sound. I plan on getting a new set, thinking of going w/ summitt.
Maybe Im used to the sound. I plan on getting a new set, thinking of going w/ summitt.
I was talking about the QTP cutout housing. It looked exactly like the one on post #6. I cut out the extra metal that QTP left on it.