Shorted Meziere Water Pump
I spent the better half of last night after work installing the pump itself and removing the heater hoses. I went today to wire it up after work and spent about 4 hours thinking I was stupid. I first wired it up the simple way using the blue power wire from the pump to the gray fuel pump power wire and the black wire to ground. I buttoned everything up and filled the car with coolant and then turned the key and hear a click I go to turn it over it wont start. It blew the fuel pump fuse. So thinking about what I could have done wrong I realize there is nothing I did wrong. I replace the fuse and unplug the water pump and the fuel pump fuse stays fine car starts and runs. So thinking about this some more I think to myself that maybe its overloading the circuit so ok I go and get all the quick disconnects and wiring and quick splices to wire in a relay on the circuit spending an hour and 25 bucks i come back spend another 45 minutes wiring it up making sure I wire it all up correctly. I go to do it again and click the fuse now inline with water pump blows. I swap out and go get another relay from my toolbox and still same results. I unplug it and carefully test all the wires making sure only the 30 wire on the relay has power when key off and that the trigger wires are hot for the first 3 seconds after key on. I check the ground and its fine. I then check the resistance reading between the two wires coming from the pump and it only reads .5 ohms which seems crazy low considering if you touch the two leads together you get the same reading. So I have come up with that the brand new pump is sh*t. I am also a certifed gm driveability tech so I doubt its my wiring skills but if anyone has any ideas or things I have overlooked please help me out I hate that I have to now have my car down til I get a new pump from Meziere.
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Pin to Pin: 0.5 ohms- same reading as yours that you say is shorted-WRONG
Either Pin to chassis: OL (infinity)
Obviously from my results you're doing something wrong. Your motor is NOT shorted
I did mine 5 years ago, but may be I can think it thru anyway. The relay coil(control side) goes to the trigger wire. The other coil wire goes to chassis. The load side has to be fused of course(not against a make believe internal short, but against insulation chaffing which you have guarded against using heat shrink tubing or some other type of spagetti, right?). I hope so because I always use it and mine has never failed in 50K miles and 5 years of service, but that's just me. The load wire from the pump goes to the N.O. relay contact. The common relay contact goes to a fused 12Vdc source. The black pump wire goes straight to the chassis. Did I get it right?





