???CAR IDLES HIGHER AFTER REMOVING REAR o2's???
08-20-2008, 03:49 PM
#22
There are only a few ports, but there maybe tee connected.
Brake booster
HVAP port
PCV
MAP and the ports for the Dash vacuum assisted controls.
I would also try putting a stock MAF on, possible that the porting job may have distrupted the area around the throttle blade.
Not sure of your year, do you have a EGR and is the AIR pump still connected.
If checking for a vacuum leak, try using a can of carb cleaner spray and spray a bit on each of the suspected area (one at a time) and see/watch for the RPM Change. Check around the manifold/head runners, Throttle Body, etc.
Brake booster
HVAP port
PCV
MAP and the ports for the Dash vacuum assisted controls.
I would also try putting a stock MAF on, possible that the porting job may have distrupted the area around the throttle blade.
Not sure of your year, do you have a EGR and is the AIR pump still connected.
If checking for a vacuum leak, try using a can of carb cleaner spray and spray a bit on each of the suspected area (one at a time) and see/watch for the RPM Change. Check around the manifold/head runners, Throttle Body, etc.
08-20-2008, 05:01 PM
#23
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Join Date: Apr 2008
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There are only a few ports, but there maybe tee connected.
Brake booster
HVAP port
PCV
MAP and the ports for the Dash vacuum assisted controls.
I would also try putting a stock MAF on, possible that the porting job may have distrupted the area around the throttle blade.
Not sure of your year, do you have a EGR and is the AIR pump still connected.
If checking for a vacuum leak, try using a can of carb cleaner spray and spray a bit on each of the suspected area (one at a time) and see/watch for the RPM Change. Check around the manifold/head runners, Throttle Body, etc.
Brake booster
HVAP port
PCV
MAP and the ports for the Dash vacuum assisted controls.
I would also try putting a stock MAF on, possible that the porting job may have distrupted the area around the throttle blade.
Not sure of your year, do you have a EGR and is the AIR pump still connected.
If checking for a vacuum leak, try using a can of carb cleaner spray and spray a bit on each of the suspected area (one at a time) and see/watch for the RPM Change. Check around the manifold/head runners, Throttle Body, etc.
I really aggree with the idea of checking the throttle body blade. I have seen more then one throttle body where the blade would not close completely after a P/P was done to it or for some reason or another the cable driven TBs blade would not close completely even when stock
08-20-2008, 05:18 PM
#24
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
There are only a few ports, but there maybe tee connected.
Brake booster
HVAP port
PCV
MAP and the ports for the Dash vacuum assisted controls.
I would also try putting a stock MAF on, possible that the porting job may have distrupted the area around the throttle blade.
Not sure of your year, do you have a EGR and is the AIR pump still connected.
If checking for a vacuum leak, try using a can of carb cleaner spray and spray a bit on each of the suspected area (one at a time) and see/watch for the RPM Change. Check around the manifold/head runners, Throttle Body, etc.
Brake booster
HVAP port
PCV
MAP and the ports for the Dash vacuum assisted controls.
I would also try putting a stock MAF on, possible that the porting job may have distrupted the area around the throttle blade.
Not sure of your year, do you have a EGR and is the AIR pump still connected.
If checking for a vacuum leak, try using a can of carb cleaner spray and spray a bit on each of the suspected area (one at a time) and see/watch for the RPM Change. Check around the manifold/head runners, Throttle Body, etc.
