UDP Won't come off crank!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
Uugh.. A buddy and I went to the store to get bolts today to TRY and get that steering wheel puller looking thing to work.. .No bueno.. Even UbEr tightened the bolts on the three jaw puller and slammed the **** out of the pulley w/ a mallet while trying to tighten the puller to get it off.. No workey.. It didn't budge one frickin centimeter! 
I don't give two flying fks about this pulley right now.. I just want to drive the damn car!! I haven't driven it in MONTHS!!
I'd almost risk overheating and a dead battery just to take it around the block!!
I don't give two flying fks about this pulley right now.. I just want to drive the damn car!! I haven't driven it in MONTHS!! I'd almost risk overheating and a dead battery just to take it around the block!!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ I'm doing that anyway.. Come January 09... Seriously.. THis do0d wants to buy mine from me for $4k. Getting a short block. Either 409 or 370 forged..
That's what I was sayin tho... "Just yank the darn engine out! It's comin out anyway!"
That's what I was sayin tho... "Just yank the darn engine out! It's comin out anyway!"
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Verdad Gallardo Ehhh not if you have the right stuff, not being a dick toward you but I have been a tech over ten years and pulled countless bitch pulleys and not one have I had a puller that used a bolt that threaded into the crank, I have used some that have a shaft that goes all the way in the snout and bottoms out on the crank ( thats actually how the chrysler one I used that cost like 400$ was ), I could see it making it stable but like I said if you get a real puller a high quality one, it comes right off.
By the way OP I seriously doubt you will ever get it off with a steering wheel puller, last time I got one off I had a puller designed the same as a steering wheel puller but it was a good 3 times as thick and had a very large tip that could covered the crank snout completely, actually I left the bolt in threaded in most of the way to keep from damaging the crank snout then would pull the pulley up to the bolt then back off the bolt a little and go again, came off easily, time consuming but no frustration. Another thing is the tip that it presses on if its not lubricated or made of soft metal that will really make it harder also, lubricate the main pulling bolt it WILL help. I have had some gall up the threads before from so much pressure.
In the link below you can see the difference in the one you are using and the size of the one I used, by the way I hate 3 jaw pullers this style works better for the most part. The chrysler one may work, thats a bad bitch made for the chrysler 4 cyl's which have given me the most trouble of all pulleys I have ever pulled and the specific one worked great.
http://www.centurytool.net/525_OTC_T...s_p/otc525.htm
Get this, notice the tip on the main bolt, that is very important that it is high quality, used one that was cheap and it wadded up the metal. I think I have seen these at Oreilly before.
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2286.html
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2286.html
I found a couple places that sell decent ones and you should have one of these stores in your area.
If you get this one dont use that pointed tip on it unless you press against the bolt (hoping there is a flat tip in this kit). I still like the KD tools 2286 puller better, and Matco/Mac/Snap on best.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4080_200354080
and another you could try, I would go with this over the one above, performance tool is so/so quality, KD is high quality
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...pecialty+Tools
If you get this one dont use that pointed tip on it unless you press against the bolt (hoping there is a flat tip in this kit). I still like the KD tools 2286 puller better, and Matco/Mac/Snap on best.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4080_200354080
and another you could try, I would go with this over the one above, performance tool is so/so quality, KD is high quality
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...pecialty+Tools
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^nope.. I'm sure I'm not..
After all the BS I've been putting up with at work, I get home stare at the puller and walk away.. I'm just out of patience to be messing with the car lately. I've got some solid time off soon, so I can rest up and mess with the car again.
After all the BS I've been putting up with at work, I get home stare at the puller and walk away.. I'm just out of patience to be messing with the car lately. I've got some solid time off soon, so I can rest up and mess with the car again.
**** it just heat it, just keep the heat on the ring that is right around the crank, may slide right off. As for the seal you should replace it anyway.
But yeah take a couple days to release your irratability with it and things will go much better, when I keep going and going until frustration sets in I usually make a worse decision than if I had just stepped away for a while.
But yeah take a couple days to release your irratability with it and things will go much better, when I keep going and going until frustration sets in I usually make a worse decision than if I had just stepped away for a while.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
Got it.. "Freeze off" a BFH, long HEAVY metal pipe, the Chrysler puller, a chunk of drywall (Damage from thrown "DAMN IT tool" ) and a LOT of swearing!
Took her for a rip earlier and holy **** this car is FAST!!!
Haven't driven it in a month!
Took her for a rip earlier and holy **** this car is FAST!!!
Haven't driven it in a month! LMGDAO at the drywall, been there. That relief of frustration from throwing the tool does not last long at all, unless you hit nothing with the tool that causes further work to be done then its great lol.
