UDP Won't come off crank!
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
UDP Won't come off crank! WTF!? It's not coming off!
Tips? Tricks?? It's just bending my puller... It's an SLP UDP too... I'm waiting on THunderracing to send me another one. I wanted the ASP UDP.
Tips? Tricks?? It's just bending my puller... It's an SLP UDP too... I'm waiting on THunderracing to send me another one. I wanted the ASP UDP.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^I'm using a heavy 3 jaw puller.. It's not budging. I tightened all the bolts on it and it's strightening the puller.. -Not staying where I want it and I run out of bolt for the puller..
That SOB went on TIGHT too!
That SOB went on TIGHT too!
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...4080_200354080
Autozone and other stores will have similar as rental tools that you can use without having to buy and keep the tool in your toolbox. It makes things much easier than regular gear pullers!
Autozone and other stores will have similar as rental tools that you can use without having to buy and keep the tool in your toolbox. It makes things much easier than regular gear pullers!
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
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POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
I believe they are 3/8"x24 bolts. Someone might be able to double check that, but I'm pretty sure that's right!
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
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Go pick up a cheap Propane torch from your local auto parts store and try to heat up the pulley a little bit. I've had a couple in the past that broke pullers trying to come off. Heated them up and they slip right off.
Make sure to wear thick gloves and keep the flame away from anywhere near the oil pan or surrounding components.
Make sure to wear thick gloves and keep the flame away from anywhere near the oil pan or surrounding components.
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Powerbond pulley = SLP pulley
Here's how I did it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/751611-how-remove-powerbond-ud-pulley.html
Here's how I did it:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/751611-how-remove-powerbond-ud-pulley.html
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^ I'll try the Crystler method..
I thought about heating it, but I don't want to melt my front seal..
And yes, I tried the large socket too.. It's stuck on the 3 jaw puller now..
Usually I can figure this stuff out, but I've been put thru hell at work lately and I don't have the patience to deal w/ more IshT when I get home..
I thought about heating it, but I don't want to melt my front seal..
And yes, I tried the large socket too.. It's stuck on the 3 jaw puller now..
Usually I can figure this stuff out, but I've been put thru hell at work lately and I don't have the patience to deal w/ more IshT when I get home.. Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
Haven't worked on it... GOtta go to the dealer to get the removal tool..
It was killin me not being able to drive the car today.. It was a great day for it... I haven't driven it in months.. It's a garage queen that sits on carpet scraps while I beat on my DD F-150. I spent 2 months detailing it so I'm not in a hurry to get bugs or dust on it again, but I just want out take it out for a rip....THis is killing me not having drivin it in SO long.. I miss the lope and the power, to the point that my 5.0 95 F-150 feels fast..
It was killin me not being able to drive the car today.. It was a great day for it... I haven't driven it in months.. It's a garage queen that sits on carpet scraps while I beat on my DD F-150. I spent 2 months detailing it so I'm not in a hurry to get bugs or dust on it again, but I just want out take it out for a rip....THis is killing me not having drivin it in SO long.. I miss the lope and the power, to the point that my 5.0 95 F-150 feels fast..
Tighten the puller up to the point where you saying "this isn't gonna budge", remove the ratchet and leave the socket, 2 sharp blows with a hammer on the socket, tighten the puller up some more... Repeat. Shock loading the puller while it's got tension on the damper works everytime. You may have to do this quite a few times. You may not see progress at first, but each time you put the ratchet back on, you'll notice that you get an additional 1/4-1/2 turn on the puller before in snugs up again.
Last edited by crashinaz; Oct 5, 2008 at 12:58 AM.
X2
and as far as the comment "I would heat it but I dont want to ruin the front seal", well you should be replacing that seal anyway, and heating it is a good idea anyway, it will expand the pulley and let loose of the crank. I personally dont like to heat things much, but it does work, im more of a big ******* hammer type of guy lol.
If nothing else heat it and beat it ( that sounds so wrong )
oh and I had a lot of trouble getting a buddy of mine's pulley off with his cheezy puller until I brought over a "real" puller, as in not cheap, got a Mac tools puller and that bitch popped right off.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
I was gonna stalk the Snap-On tool truck to see if he had a good puller... He's a hard one to find! I found the Matco tool guy but I didn't have money at the time..
I don't have a lot of "WHACK" room.. the RAD is still in the car and the car is on the ground.. Lowered F-Cars are a PITA to work on.. That crank pulley is always a PITFA for some reason!! I'd rather do my H/C swap again than have to mess w/ the fans and that damn crank pulley!!! FK THAT!!!
I don't have a lot of "WHACK" room.. the RAD is still in the car and the car is on the ground.. Lowered F-Cars are a PITA to work on.. That crank pulley is always a PITFA for some reason!! I'd rather do my H/C swap again than have to mess w/ the fans and that damn crank pulley!!! FK THAT!!!
Last edited by bayer-z28; Oct 5, 2008 at 01:31 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 4,085
Likes: 1
From: N. Falmouth MA
^The fans will slip off the RAD.. But I'm not bleeding this whole system just to change the frickin Pulley.. The fans always kick my *** for some reason.. They're hard to get off the RAD on my car and to un clip the connectors and all... it's just a PITA in my book.. Like I said, I'd rather do a whole H/C swap than mess with these damn fans or crank pulley..
The way my garage is, it's a real PITA to work on a lowered F-Car.. There's a 1" step in the foundation towards the front of the garage. So my shins are basically at the height of the top of the RAD.. = Bet the hell over.. I put a piece of carpet of the RAD support frame piece to kneel on.
The way my garage is, it's a real PITA to work on a lowered F-Car.. There's a 1" step in the foundation towards the front of the garage. So my shins are basically at the height of the top of the RAD.. = Bet the hell over.. I put a piece of carpet of the RAD support frame piece to kneel on.
