changing rod bolts?
changing rod bolts? ok so ive read about the stock rod bolts being a weak link in 500+hp and higher RPMs so im tempted to change mine to an ARP set. now the only thing holding me back is that ive read somewhere on here that the rod caps are actually toothed in a way? so that they mesh with the rods and arent actually perfectly flat for some reason...and if you remove them they wont go back together exactly how they were which would cause bearing problems? anyways what should i do?
Last edited by C Murda; Oct 28, 2008 at 06:59 PM.
Katechs are much closer in size and weight to OEM than heavy ARP's and is the only ones I would do without getting the rods resized. DEFINITELY DO THEM ONE AT A TIME If you decide to move forward. Some have run the ARP fine and others have had failures. It is a crapshoot IMHO. I decided to take my chances with the stock 98's and shift at 6500 even though I am leaving a little bit on the table. Their is a recent poll thread around here on this very subject you may want to search.
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thanks for the info guys now its just deciding between ARP and katech...i heard that the newer 01-02 ls1s had come with stronger factory rod bolts and if so, how much stronger are the katech rod bolts?
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I used ARPs on mine. I did 7 rods one bolt at a time but I had one cap off to check bearings so I just put that cap back on the way it was and installed the bolts. I've got 5000 miles on it and I routinely shift it at 7000 rpm with no issues.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/946074-poll-who-s-had-stock-rod-bolts-fail.html
I dont think Ive eveer heard of a stock rod with arps swapted in, the rod bolt failing.
I dont think Ive eveer heard of a stock rod with arps swapted in, the rod bolt failing.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=946074
I dont think Ive eveer heard of a stock rod with arps swapted in, the rod bolt failing.
I dont think Ive eveer heard of a stock rod with arps swapted in, the rod bolt failing.
I didn't read any further. It's a crapshhoot IMO. 