next mod?
11-13-2008, 06:51 PM
#1
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next mod? heres my current mods
1998 trans am a4
K&N
3.73 gears
Shift kit
flowmaster catback
hypertech programmer III
also have a ram air hood just needs to be painted
anyone have a clue what hp i got now
i want to get my car inbetween 360hp and 385hp in the next year or so what should my next mods be i believe i am adding a lid next and may switch over to SLP LM1 or True Duals, but what after that to get the best hp for cheapest price
1998 trans am a4
K&N
3.73 gears
Shift kit
flowmaster catback
hypertech programmer III
also have a ram air hood just needs to be painted
anyone have a clue what hp i got now
i want to get my car inbetween 360hp and 385hp in the next year or so what should my next mods be i believe i am adding a lid next and may switch over to SLP LM1 or True Duals, but what after that to get the best hp for cheapest price
11-13-2008, 07:29 PM
#3
this is before the cam, mods are as follows, Long tube headers, lid, hand held programmer, magnaflow cat back. I too would recommend a torque converter to complement the gears. Next would be headers and a cam and your set.
Last edited by danger ds; 12-09-2008 at 08:24 PM.
11-13-2008, 08:11 PM
#6
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okay and you guys said torque converter what kind of gain would that add to the car? and if i got one anyone have any recomendations for which one to get
i never knew this but i also i found this on a site should i not get one
Is a shift kit required or recommended?
10. Yank Performance Converters can achieve maximum performance and efficiency without the use of shift kits. Shift kits dramatically raise transmission line pressure to increase shift firmness. Increased shift firmness will not increase performance, but create unnecessary stress on the transmission and other drive-line components.
i never knew this but i also i found this on a site should i not get one
Is a shift kit required or recommended?
10. Yank Performance Converters can achieve maximum performance and efficiency without the use of shift kits. Shift kits dramatically raise transmission line pressure to increase shift firmness. Increased shift firmness will not increase performance, but create unnecessary stress on the transmission and other drive-line components.
Last edited by 1998_trans_am_ls1; 11-13-2008 at 08:30 PM.
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11-13-2008, 09:27 PM
#9
a shift kit increases shift firmness and performance by reducing slip. picture a maunual transmision shifting from first to second slowly slipping the clutch (causes wear tear and reduces performance does it not) now pictures a manual transmision with a quick shift instead of slipping(fasheer shift less time loss where power is being wadted clutch has less damage more power is hitting pavement and your on your way to a faster time slip).
Also think bout a non shift kit car it is less likely to chirp the 3-4 shift where as most shift kit cars with lt1's or lsx's has almost always chirped the 3-4 shift.
Also think bout a non shift kit car it is less likely to chirp the 3-4 shift where as most shift kit cars with lt1's or lsx's has almost always chirped the 3-4 shift.
11-14-2008, 07:45 AM
#12
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"With the better exhaust, and lid without the headers I would say 337rwhp and 345rwtq"
with no headers? please!!!
with what you have now (no lid or headers) i would guess 310rwhp
hand held programmers are crap, and the flowmaster is well known to be marginally better than stock for power.
don't waste your money on a whole new exhaust setup. cheapest thing to do would be install a cutout, next cheapest would just be to replace the muffler with a high flowing setup.
lid will definatly add power
torque converter will help get power to the ground. won't make you dyno any higher (typically will hurt dyno numbers) but the car will be faster. which is what counts.
if you want the 360-380rwhp you mentioned
get some lt headers, a cutout, a lid, torque converter (3000-3500 perhaps...research that), and a 224 cam with the associated upgrades.
then get a good dyno tune and you'll be all set. should make for a nasty street car but still have basically stock driveability.
with no headers? please!!!
with what you have now (no lid or headers) i would guess 310rwhp
hand held programmers are crap, and the flowmaster is well known to be marginally better than stock for power.
don't waste your money on a whole new exhaust setup. cheapest thing to do would be install a cutout, next cheapest would just be to replace the muffler with a high flowing setup.
lid will definatly add power
torque converter will help get power to the ground. won't make you dyno any higher (typically will hurt dyno numbers) but the car will be faster. which is what counts.
if you want the 360-380rwhp you mentioned
get some lt headers, a cutout, a lid, torque converter (3000-3500 perhaps...research that), and a 224 cam with the associated upgrades.
then get a good dyno tune and you'll be all set. should make for a nasty street car but still have basically stock driveability.
11-14-2008, 02:45 PM
#14
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my 99 dynoed 300 with lid and cutout. so there is no way he would hit 330 with those mods. As far as the torque converter i suggest getting a circle d converter and a transmission cooler.
