You need all supporting mods before a cam IMO.

Then, I'd go for heads instead of a cam swap. You could go with a larger cam, but you'd lose some drivability and fuel economy.

 

Everything works as a system. By you adding a cam you threw off the car and have the cam too good for the rest of the car. Theres no set in stone series for upgrading a car, but a cam and other internal work is usally reserved for when the rest of the externals are set up. Also are you tuned and did the dyno chart reveal how healthy the motor is? What was the day like when you dynoed it? Don't worry about the #s too much just enjoy the car and touch up and address certain things on the car when you can. Good luck with the car.

 

Man i know you guys know your **** , but i have seen huge # with that cam ( witch i loved ) and a set of ls6 stg 2.5 There is a guy on here making 470 452 trq with that cam those heads and fast 90 simple sexy and sick !

 

who gets a cam before a lid? you need all the supporting mods to get the most out of it.

 

WOW....talk about building a car the wrong way.

you're EASILY leaving 25hp on the table with a stock lid and catback.



that's like drag racing on a spare tire...not getting traction and blaming the suspension.


if nothing else put a 3" pipe on the ypipe, into a cutout, then run the stock catback. quiet when you need it, power when you want it.
for about $200 you can have the power you're looking for.

 

I agree, the car has the potential to make really good power. Like I said before, he needs to finish the bolt-ons(catback, pulley and I believe he said he has already purchased a lid). I think once he redynos after the remaining bolt-ons, he won't be disappointed. He's leaving quite a bit of power on the table. My setup dynoed around 430RW with mods in sig.

Brian

 

Sounds like you could benefit from a ring & pinion swap also .

4.10 is a good ratio for the street .