ARP rod bolts!!!
#1
ARP rod bolts!!!
well i have a stock bottom end 2000 ls1. few questions;
1) If i get arp rod bolts do i just drop the pan and tq them down?
2)If so, then will it allow me to rev to 6,800rpm?(everything else permitting cam,springs, rockers)
Right now i shift 1-2 6,300rpm 2-3 6,300rpm. rev limit is at 6,500(been there manytimes) 133,000 miles tr224 227 cam ls6 heads, best time 11.56 @ 117 1.64 60' 245 nitto tires, 3.73, 3600 stall, and a 3,300 with driver weight. chrome moly pushrods, gold dual springs, high flow, high pressure oil pump.
1) If i get arp rod bolts do i just drop the pan and tq them down?
2)If so, then will it allow me to rev to 6,800rpm?(everything else permitting cam,springs, rockers)
Right now i shift 1-2 6,300rpm 2-3 6,300rpm. rev limit is at 6,500(been there manytimes) 133,000 miles tr224 227 cam ls6 heads, best time 11.56 @ 117 1.64 60' 245 nitto tires, 3.73, 3600 stall, and a 3,300 with driver weight. chrome moly pushrods, gold dual springs, high flow, high pressure oil pump.
#2
10 Second Club
iTrader: (11)
Hey Brad
I've logged 6900+ with rev limiter set to 6600. ARP 2000 bolts won't stretch like the stockers. If the motor is healthy, 6800 should still be reliable.
I haven't decided if I'm going Katech or ARP 2000 yet. But I am going to keep the same motor and swap to ported heads this winter. I plan to spin 6800-7000 next season and make some 9 sec passes.
I've logged 6900+ with rev limiter set to 6600. ARP 2000 bolts won't stretch like the stockers. If the motor is healthy, 6800 should still be reliable.
I haven't decided if I'm going Katech or ARP 2000 yet. But I am going to keep the same motor and swap to ported heads this winter. I plan to spin 6800-7000 next season and make some 9 sec passes.
#3
Nathan,
So your stock 2000 bottom and motor revs to 6,900+? Your motor sure has proven what a stock LS is capable of!!!! Looking forward to seeing you hit your 9 sec goal. My goal is a 10.9xx or better on motor for next season. I have several little things i want to do over the winter to help me reach my goal.
70lbs off, elec pump, fast 90/90 or weinad intake,bigger cam?, and a better tire. I have a feeling i'm going to be stuck in the 11.0-11.2 range, and if that does happen then the nitrous will go on.
So your stock 2000 bottom and motor revs to 6,900+? Your motor sure has proven what a stock LS is capable of!!!! Looking forward to seeing you hit your 9 sec goal. My goal is a 10.9xx or better on motor for next season. I have several little things i want to do over the winter to help me reach my goal.
70lbs off, elec pump, fast 90/90 or weinad intake,bigger cam?, and a better tire. I have a feeling i'm going to be stuck in the 11.0-11.2 range, and if that does happen then the nitrous will go on.
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#9
I think where silver beast was going with that is the Katech's are closer to the stock rod bolt weight where as the ARPs aren't. From what I have read on here you may want to be careful doing this, this could change your bearing clearances which could end up bad for you.
#12
I think where silver beast was going with that is the Katech's are closer to the stock rod bolt weight where as the ARPs aren't. From what I have read on here you may want to be careful doing this, this could change your bearing clearances which could end up bad for you.
My motor has 133,000 miles anyway so if they did tighten the clearence that may be good. I really don't see why the would tighten more then .0005in so if i was at .0025 that would put me at .002, right in spec.
#14
Its really not a rumor, called both companies.
ARP says you may need to resize the rod due to the bolts being longer and possibly distorting the rod in to an oval shape.
Kateck says their bolts are the stock size which prevents distotion but allowes for simple replacement.
Conclustion: If yuo want a simple upgrade get kateck, if you want to do a complete motor build with the best of the best and have the entire motor blueprinted , then go arp!
ARP says you may need to resize the rod due to the bolts being longer and possibly distorting the rod in to an oval shape.
Kateck says their bolts are the stock size which prevents distotion but allowes for simple replacement.
Conclustion: If yuo want a simple upgrade get kateck, if you want to do a complete motor build with the best of the best and have the entire motor blueprinted , then go arp!
#20
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Join Date: Aug 2005
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Its optimum to have the rod work done whenever you replace bolts but I have yet to hear about a single rod failure due to a bolt replacement provided the bolt replacement was done properly (bolts replaced one at a time and tightened properly). Thats why I dont buy the internet arguement that you need to have the rods worked on with ARP bolts. This has been floated around here for a long time without any instance of actual failures due to this. Tons of people have done direct replacements of rod bolts on stock motors and they have been fine.
Everyone knows everything on the internet so take what you read with a grain of salt.