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ARP Head Bolts or Studs?

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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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Default ARP Head Bolts or Studs?

I am doing heads over the winter and am wondering if I need to get ARP head bolts or studs? or maybe just stick with the stock GM bolts.

Full bolt on + TR230 + PRC 5.3L 2.5
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:03 AM
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If you can spend the money get the studs. They will handle any thing you want to do in the future and if you have to remove the heads for any reason no more coolant in the hole's to worry about.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:35 AM
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and they are a straight torque sequence.

none of that torque down, then turn 90deg BS

and as stated, reusable and very strong.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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So it's not worth it to get the bolts? I think the bolts are 150$ compared to close to $400 for the studs.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by PewterMNZ
So it's not worth it to get the bolts? I think the bolts are 150$ compared to close to $400 for the studs.
If you're looking at $400 studs, you're shopping in the wrong places!

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/cate...MID=1&catid=36

We offer them for well under $300!
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 10:20 AM
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So are you saying that its not worth it to get bolts ..
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 10:27 AM
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I think they are worth the extra $100 over the arp bolts.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 10:28 AM
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It's personal preference that makes the difference. As someone above stated, when you have studs you can leave them in for a head swap and not worry so much coolant getting in the holes and having to clean those out. Both are re-usable, so that's not an issue really. On an F-body car, the clearance getting the heads off above the studs is VERY tight. Whereas with bolts it is much easier since the bolts come out before removing the heads (obviously). So labor wise, the bolts can make things a bit easier.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
It's personal preference that makes the difference. As someone above stated, when you have studs you can leave them in for a head swap and not worry so much coolant getting in the holes and having to clean those out. Both are re-usable, so that's not an issue really. On an F-body car, the clearance getting the heads off above the studs is VERY tight. Whereas with bolts it is much easier since the bolts come out before removing the heads (obviously). So labor wise, the bolts can make things a bit easier.
so there is no difference in strength or effectiveness in preventing head lifting, it's more of a preference/labor choice?
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 11:44 AM
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Also don't forget the studs require a retorqing after heat cycling. Not hard, just a PITA.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dubrado
so there is no difference in strength or effectiveness in preventing head lifting, it's more of a preference/labor choice?
There is a slightly different method to torquing studs and bolts, but nothing crazy. The studs also distribute the clamping force a little different, but for the average car on this site it will not make any significant difference.
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt@Texas-Speed
There is a slightly different method to torquing studs and bolts, but nothing crazy. The studs also distribute the clamping force a little different, but for the average car on this site it will not make any significant difference.
what about if you have a forged 347 with a 200-250 shot?
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 03:01 PM
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I always used bolts but with like said on LS1's if your going to do frequent cyl head removal, I would do studs, but if I were not. Bolts are quite fine.
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