I am about to O.D. on all this!!!
ms4 cam
prc ls6 heads
ported 90/90 intake/TB setup
pacesetter LT's with custom 2.5 xpipe into 1 chamber race flowmasters
lid
Vig. 4k stall
410s
weight reduction
dynotune
race weight is 3200 right now.. havnt spent any money on it though.. if i spend a few hundred dollars i could get under 3000 pretty easily...
right at 425rwhp...
havnt been back to the track with the heads on yet... im expecting a 7.0@96.. 1/8 of course..
prc ls6 heads
ported 90/90 intake/TB setup
pacesetter LT's with custom 2.5 xpipe into 1 chamber race flowmasters
lid
Vig. 4k stall
410s
weight reduction
dynotune
race weight is 3200 right now.. havnt spent any money on it though.. if i spend a few hundred dollars i could get under 3000 pretty easily...
right at 425rwhp...
havnt been back to the track with the heads on yet... im expecting a 7.0@96.. 1/8 of course..
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Ok..It might be nothing it might be something...This morninig, i checked the coolant..and looked dirty as hell..Like brown almost..The last time i changed the coolant i put Dex and water..50/50 mix..I put Dex in the coolant resivor and it looks like the dip stick attached to the cap is kinda melted??..WTF??.
Ok..It might be nothing it might be something...This morninig, i checked the coolant..and looked dirty as hell..Like brown almost..The last time i changed the coolant i put Dex and water..50/50 mix..I put Dex in the coolant resivor and it looks like the dip stick attached to the cap is kinda melted??..WTF??.
Ok..It might be nothing it might be something...This morninig, i checked the coolant..and looked dirty as hell..Like brown almost..The last time i changed the coolant i put Dex and water..50/50 mix..I put Dex in the coolant resivor and it looks like the dip stick attached to the cap is kinda melted??..WTF??.
Having said that I have a combined 268K miles on my Z-71 and T/A running Dex with no issues..... Weird how some people do though
hey man sorry so long on response.. i took a trip out of town for the weekend..
drain everything.. fill it back up with dexcool and report back!
brown ugly nasty stuff on the tops is no biggie... thats just moisture and stuff mixing together.. if its the water itself, thats not awesome.. haha
drain everything.. fill it back up with dexcool and report back!
brown ugly nasty stuff on the tops is no biggie... thats just moisture and stuff mixing together.. if its the water itself, thats not awesome.. haha
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Verdad Gallardo While the car is idling.....
Turn ON your heater to flush the core and undo the top radiator hose from the rad. Run water through the rad. cap with a hose so it doesn't get hot but just cycle it through top hose till it comes out clear. I just put a slow trickle in the rad. to make the t-stat open more to speed things up and just watch the temp guage to stay safe. When it is clear. Drain the remaining water out of the petcock and refill with 50/50 mix of green stuff and distilled water. Burp it of course and fill the overflow bottle. DONE
Turn ON your heater to flush the core and undo the top radiator hose from the rad. Run water through the rad. cap with a hose so it doesn't get hot but just cycle it through top hose till it comes out clear. I just put a slow trickle in the rad. to make the t-stat open more to speed things up and just watch the temp guage to stay safe. When it is clear. Drain the remaining water out of the petcock and refill with 50/50 mix of green stuff and distilled water. Burp it of course and fill the overflow bottle. DONE
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While the car is idling.....
Turn ON your heater to flush the core and undo the top radiator hose from the rad. Run water through the rad. cap with a hose so it doesn't get hot but just cycle it through top hose till it comes out clear. I just put a slow trickle in the rad. to make the t-stat open more to speed things up and just watch the temp guage to stay safe. When it is clear. Drain the remaining water out of the petcock and refill with 50/50 mix of green stuff and distilled water. Burp it of course and fill the overflow bottle. DONE
Turn ON your heater to flush the core and undo the top radiator hose from the rad. Run water through the rad. cap with a hose so it doesn't get hot but just cycle it through top hose till it comes out clear. I just put a slow trickle in the rad. to make the t-stat open more to speed things up and just watch the temp guage to stay safe. When it is clear. Drain the remaining water out of the petcock and refill with 50/50 mix of green stuff and distilled water. Burp it of course and fill the overflow bottle. DONE
you arent going to pick up a **** TON from the heads.. so it will be a lot of work for no huge gain.... id do two at once.. or better yet all three... will save you money too.. you wont have to replace oil antifreeze etc. 2-3 times, just once..
Those heads will pick you up nothing unless they are ported.... 241's MAYBE have 5 hp over 806's....
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id hold of on putting the heads on until your ready to do the cam swap, or at least the intake.....
you arent going to pick up a **** TON from the heads.. so it will be a lot of work for no huge gain.... id do two at once.. or better yet all three... will save you money too.. you wont have to replace oil antifreeze etc. 2-3 times, just once..
you arent going to pick up a **** TON from the heads.. so it will be a lot of work for no huge gain.... id do two at once.. or better yet all three... will save you money too.. you wont have to replace oil antifreeze etc. 2-3 times, just once..
dont know how much you spent on them.. but if i were you id try to sell them for whatever you can and get some stock ls6 heads (of course ported would be better).. but you dont have to worry about getting someone to port them and all that and 243s should pick you up about 15-20rwhp...
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Yeah I am..I settled on the T2 or T3..Most 243 i found are for 300-500 bucks..The Ported Fast vs Ported LS6 dosen't make that much difference in my opinion, But i like the setup CAMAROZ28AQUINO said minus AFR..