Help Me Understand.... Has To Do With H/C Question
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Yes for the bigger cams to perform at thier peak more compresion is needed. But the power is way up, rpm wise,and not needed for the street. With the right drivetrain setup a person can give them a good run. Granted all is the same as weight ,suspension. Going with 4:88 gears and a 27-28 inch tall tire(15 inch wheel) a 4000 stall, flash it to 4200. A manual could be launched around the same but maybe a different rear gear depending on the first gear ratio. You can get peak performance form any cam by degreeing it. And with a head that is ported as needed. and an intake that has a runner leanth and plenum volume you need for the engine your building. Our engines(LS) make great power over the gen one mainly due to the head design,15 degree. On the older ones going from a stock 23 to a 18 degree is a huge diff in performance. Alot of it also comes down to great marketing. TSP did run awsome#s cam only. But at 2800lbs It should. I dont know all the stats on the car. BTW nice car. You going to paint the bumper too? Like the CETA bumper.
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Right now i don;t have any money to do much. Heads and rear are out for now. but i have a dew goddies going on the car in spring nothing big
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I only pulled Rob once, but i thik he gave up b/c he was going def from my exhaust
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Welcome to the madness. Lot of experts out there is why big cams are so popular
thats all I have to say about that
Nothing beats a proper combo.
Running the biggest cam most aggressive lobes and springs you can find and OEM lifters is the credo for the experts on this site
thats all I have to say about thatNothing beats a proper combo.
Running the biggest cam most aggressive lobes and springs you can find and OEM lifters is the credo for the experts on this site
dyno numbers dont mean anything except to people whos car doesnt run.
my car must be one of those "improper setups" only makes 395 hp and 380 ftlbs with full bolt ons, heads, and a 228/230 cam.
did i mention i drive 100 miles to the track, change tires, run 11.5's @ 122-123 weighing at 3500#'s and drive 100 miles home
my car must be one of those "improper setups" only makes 395 hp and 380 ftlbs with full bolt ons, heads, and a 228/230 cam.
did i mention i drive 100 miles to the track, change tires, run 11.5's @ 122-123 weighing at 3500#'s and drive 100 miles home
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i agree a proper combo that is proven is the only way to go, also every car is setup different that's why dyno # vary so much, i believe dyno's are for tuning purposes only track number matter most. My t-rex dyno'd at 400 rwhp and 378 tq but i ran 11.8
dyno numbers dont mean anything except to people whos car doesnt run.
my car must be one of those "improper setups" only makes 395 hp and 380 ftlbs with full bolt ons, heads, and a 228/230 cam.
did i mention i drive 100 miles to the track, change tires, run 11.5's @ 122-123 weighing at 3500#'s and drive 100 miles home
my car must be one of those "improper setups" only makes 395 hp and 380 ftlbs with full bolt ons, heads, and a 228/230 cam.
did i mention i drive 100 miles to the track, change tires, run 11.5's @ 122-123 weighing at 3500#'s and drive 100 miles home
I'm running a torquer 2 and GTP stg 2+ H/C setup and have beaten numerous H/C cars running big cams (MS3, MS4) cam only and some with PRC LS6/5.3 2.5 setups. Only big cam I've lost to is a car running Vindicator and 125 shot, and that was only by half a car.
Part of the problem is, well for me is the heads I was sent, have too large of a intake runner volume. I need to get something like a 215 to get the VE I need. Now for an engine size say the 413-427 the PRC LS6 2.5 would be great. For one valve size can hurt performance because it gets to apoint the hinder flow for a given engine size. AFR has capitalized on this, And Trick Flow has had a different combustion chamber shape to help swirl air into the chamber. Next is that valve events of the smaller cams compared to the larger. A person dont need to spin an engine to the moon to make power.








