2000 Z-28 won't start
01-16-2009, 11:29 PM
#1
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2000 Z-28 won't start - Problem SOLVED!! Here's my original post:
Battery is good, 12.2 volts, gauges work, won't crank. Red top battery 3 years old, tried putting jumper cables on battery terminals, not the cables, no difference. Corroded terminals on side possible? #9 fuse is partially melted, but not blown, replaced, still no start. 6 months ago, we cracked the plastic case of the starting relay when trying to remove it, but it still worked afterwards. It's 8 degrees here in Philly, so we're trying to diagnose it first, difficult to work in cold. Could a corroded relay do this? Why would the fuse be partially melted? I have a DC clamp meter to check things once the temperature makes working on it possible. Any ideas? Thanks!!
The solution:
The VATS wire for the chip that is n the key was broken in the steering wheel. I checked the chip and put a resistor across the module under the glove box and the car started. The car now runs, so I'm going to make my own security setup to permanently bypass the bad wire. There was a huge discussion on the internet about this problem and was lucky to find it. What a pain in the A$$
Neil
Battery is good, 12.2 volts, gauges work, won't crank. Red top battery 3 years old, tried putting jumper cables on battery terminals, not the cables, no difference. Corroded terminals on side possible? #9 fuse is partially melted, but not blown, replaced, still no start. 6 months ago, we cracked the plastic case of the starting relay when trying to remove it, but it still worked afterwards. It's 8 degrees here in Philly, so we're trying to diagnose it first, difficult to work in cold. Could a corroded relay do this? Why would the fuse be partially melted? I have a DC clamp meter to check things once the temperature makes working on it possible. Any ideas? Thanks!!
The solution:
The VATS wire for the chip that is n the key was broken in the steering wheel. I checked the chip and put a resistor across the module under the glove box and the car started. The car now runs, so I'm going to make my own security setup to permanently bypass the bad wire. There was a huge discussion on the internet about this problem and was lucky to find it. What a pain in the A$$
Neil
Last edited by HotRodNeil; 01-19-2009 at 01:49 PM. Reason: update
01-17-2009, 12:15 AM
#2
It's pretty common for the security(VATS) to prevent these cars from cranking. Try popping the cover of the starter relay and manually actuating it. If it cranks then its most likely the VATS or a bad ignition switch. You can also try swapping the starter relay with one of the others to eliminate it as a possibility.
01-17-2009, 01:45 AM
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01-17-2009, 05:09 AM
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A few questions:
When did it stop working - you just parked it and it wouldn't start, it had been sitting, you changed something?
When you go to start it what happens - clicks but doensn't turn, lights go dim, lights go out, nothing, etc.?
Have you removed, cleaned and tightened both battery terminals?
When did it stop working - you just parked it and it wouldn't start, it had been sitting, you changed something?
When you go to start it what happens - clicks but doensn't turn, lights go dim, lights go out, nothing, etc.?
Have you removed, cleaned and tightened both battery terminals?
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01-19-2009, 02:47 PM
#9
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A few questions:
When did it stop working - you just parked it and it wouldn't start, it had been sitting, you changed something?
When you go to start it what happens - clicks but doensn't turn, lights go dim, lights go out, nothing, etc.?
Have you removed, cleaned and tightened both battery terminals?
When did it stop working - you just parked it and it wouldn't start, it had been sitting, you changed something?
When you go to start it what happens - clicks but doensn't turn, lights go dim, lights go out, nothing, etc.?
Have you removed, cleaned and tightened both battery terminals?
01-19-2009, 03:02 PM
#11
12 Second Club