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ARP bolts worth it?

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Old 01-19-2009, 01:09 PM
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Default ARP bolts worth it?

I'm in the final stages of gathering parts for my LS1 rebuild, parts are in my sig. Question is bolts...I'm going with arp rod bolts for sure but what about the rest?

Head bolts, maybe thinking about it?
Cam bolts?
Flex plate?
Balancer?

I'm not looking to beat this up but hold up yes. Just trying to cut where I can.
Old 01-19-2009, 01:12 PM
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If you are going to run head bolts and not studs, I would recommend staying with the factory bolts. The ARP studs are a signifigant upgrade but between the ARP bolts and GM bolts... not so much. The others are nice to have but not at all necessary. You did make a great choice going with the ARP rod bolts.

Thanks,
Shane
Old 01-19-2009, 04:55 PM
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Thanks so much for the input! I figured but I would rather ask...I'd like to go head studs but don't want to spent the $$. I'm going to run a shot but a small one only at the track...
Old 01-19-2009, 08:28 PM
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get studs, because i am sure you will want more and more power out of the motor.
Old 01-19-2009, 09:48 PM
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flex plate bolts might not be a bad idea either if your gonna run on the jug. considering the almost instant torque nitrous makes.
Old 01-20-2009, 07:24 AM
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Yeah for the price, flex plate bolts with my new stall are a good idea. With the shot, I don't want to spray off the line. Don't want to break stuff.
Old 01-20-2009, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by XtraCajunSS
If you are going to run head bolts and not studs, I would recommend staying with the factory bolts. The ARP studs are a signifigant upgrade but between the ARP bolts and GM bolts... not so much. The others are nice to have but not at all necessary. You did make a great choice going with the ARP rod bolts.

Thanks,
Shane
What Shane is describing a Bolt Vs Stud.

I ran ARP bolts in all my LTX stuff and like yourself you should not be changing head gaskets like crazy, the tensile strength and clamping power in ARP is great, and I trust it over ANY TQ to yeild bolt any day.

Now for hardcore racers or shops that have easy access to the heads who have to change them, no question I would stud the motor. Also with studs there are less of a chance that Sh*t can get into the bolt hold area which if it does and the installer is not clean, it CAN/WILL lead to a cracked block.

I personally like knowing that I do a 3 step torque pass with the bolts coated with the supplied grease on the underside of the bolt head to get the most accurate reading possible.




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