Found the problem, fuel pump!
(Edited-bad fuel pump) thanks
David
i would say that is a true statement. everything have to match. your heads should be able to flow at least 320+ inorder for that cam to work properly and i would say atleast go with an all bore motor for best results.
Did you guys check PtoV?
My cam's only slightly bigger (242/242 .65/.65 114), and with the slightly goofy heads I have (they got over-machined along the way), I put down 442 (with 2.02" valve, and less than 320 cfm flow). So yeah, I'd think that your valves are too big for a 346 (velocity is down), and you may have P-V issues.
Have you done a compression check to see if you've ever tapped the valves to the pistons? If you've got slightly bent valves, the motor will still run, but it'll tend to be weaker. A compression check will show this.
-Andrew (edit: RTFP
) 3800 stall is somewhat mild for a solid roller setup. Most guys running solids are in the 4500 rpm range on stalls.
LS6 intake should be borderline acceptable for a stock cube SR setup. I don't see that as your main problem.
Any dyno graphs to post? How does that higher rpm range look? What are your shift points?
Tony
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I'm willing to bet that your heads don't flow 320.
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"Good luck with that".
The head exhaust ports flowed very poorly, and there were a number of other issues.
In my current setup the only thing left form that whole fiasco is the actual head castings. They have been re-ported of course for huge flow gains.
chris
PM a member by the name of IMKMFAST and ask him what his ARE Stage III heads off his 422 motor flowed when he took them to an independent bench.. I saw the numbers and the heads, but he has the exact figures.
Why can't this be evident on a dyno? Wouldn't my fuel ratio show a fall or something? I don't see why this got missed. Anyway, I'm borrowing a slightly used stock one for the track thursday, and shopping for an upgrade.
NOT GOOD!!!
You're under more of a load when not on the dyno...that makes a diff but it shouldn't make that much of a diff.
Fix the fuel system. If your WOT fuel pressure drops more than 10 psi from base (58) then you will lose power.
Make sure also to try different shift points to find where the car should be shifted.
I'd try 6400 for both shifts and go from there.
I like to keep an eye on the 1/8th readings, you want to be going 98 mph or faster IMO for the parts you have. Anything in the 7.20 or less range is nice.
R/T .055
60' 1.707
330 4.868
1/8 7.496
mph 93.04
1000 9.780
1/4 11.701
mph 117.54
More stall would definitely help in the ET dept.
Be sure to always run a FP gauge when tuning so you can watch the pressure.
I think you should be running 98+ in the 1/8th as well. I am a hyd/2.02/1.57 valved setup and went 7.1@98.8mph in the 1/8th at 35XX pounds raceweight. (I am 360ci though)
Cheers,
Chris



