gun5l1ng3r

Long story short, I have a failed lifter on a 150K mi 1998 LS1 and I need a reliable replacement option.

I know, it is a LOT cheaper to replace the lifter but I need something that will be reliable for my upcoming graduate school years.

The local GM dealer quoted me a 1998 specific (most likely built in 1998 the parts guy says, only ~65 remain) for $3900.00.

It comes with a 3yr/100,000mi warranty, including any labor needed to fix the problem.

Should I remove the balancer and replace the oil pump (because of possible sticky pressure relief valve)? Or should I play the statistics game and hope it will be ok.

This is my only transportation, and I really don't want to break open a new crate motor...

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

If you decide to go with the warrantied motor, i say leave it alone. However, I would seriously suggest just replacing the lifter (and cam if it's damaged). I don't think the 98 engine is worth the 3900. That money could go to better places.

Gregorya24

iTrader: (13)

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...id=46&catid=28 cheaper lol

Cchris1109

iTrader: (11)

thats just a short block

im getting slightly annoyed with people suggesting a new short block without thinking of the costs of all the sensors, seals, etc

no offense to you gregorya24 at all

maybe you can find a used ls1 off of here for MUCH MUCH cheaper and only 30-60k?

gun5l1ng3r

Yeah, but I am worried about having to do other bottom end work on the car later, I was having OP issues before the lifter went(maybe main/rod bearing problems, or if could have been the lifter...).

This thing needs to be dead solid for the next 2-3 years. Also, my dad is helping me do the work and he doesn't want to have to do anymore work anytime soon.

Also, when I start up this new motor, will the computer trying to relearn the A/F cause a problme with washing down the rings?

'02 WS6

iTrader: (73)

Call Scroggin Dickey and get a fresher 2004 ls1 crate from the GTO's. Buddy of mine did that exact thing. Sensors, seals, etc all crossover. You'll need to eliminate EGR, but it'll be worth it. Last time I checked they were $3500 IIRC.

gun5l1ng3r

Yeah, but once again, this thing needs to be SUPER reliable to get me through grad school.

This failed lifter has already stressed me enough with having to deal with it AND school and I haven't even turned a wrench yet...

And I don't trust ANYONE to really work on my car except for sponsors who are too far away and are usually too expensive per hour, when a new motor is 3,900.

gun5l1ng3r

I have to get this done ASAP and trying to retro fit a non 1998 in, PCM and such will probably take too long...

Also, the 3900 is with the same discount as SDPC gives, the local dealer price matches to SDPC!

Also, CA doesn't allow SMOG modifications (although they may never be able to tell other than the SMOG sticker on my hood)...

'02 WS6

iTrader: (73)

Flashing the PCM should be the only thing that isn't a direct swap. Since the motor will be pulled the EGR is simple, then slap in the new motor and flash the PCM w/ stock '01/'02 tune.

gun5l1ng3r

The thing is, I don't have anyway to flash the PCM and getting the car to a tuner would require towing it, and even then, does the Scoggin Dickey motor have a 100,000mi/ 3yr warranty? It pretty much needs to bolt right in.

Because this is my only transportation and my dad is a big fan of reliability, any sort of hot rodding/upgrading is probably out of the question.

I think I am just going to install it and hope for the best. Hopefully they will provide a rental if the bypass spring fails...

On a side note, does anyone know how many 1997/1998 LS1's had a failed bypass spring and how many total were produced? Being a Business major I like numbers and some numbers like only .1% failure rate would put my worries to rest!

LS1W66

An LS1 is an LS1 It's the same engine the PCM doesn't know what year the engine is or what size it is for that matter.
Will it be optimal ? probably not but it will still work.

There are several changes that make the newer engines better and more reliable, so I wouldn't shy away from a `99 up engine. Besides we're talking about a longblock here anyway, your intake, exhaust, accessories and sensors will swap over from the old engine. With that said I beleive you can get a GM Goodwrench LS6 long block (CTSV service engine) for under $3500

gun5l1ng3r

Where can I get it for that price and what is the warranty?

The biggest reason we are going to get the 1998 LS1 is because of the warranty. I would love to get a 2000+ motor without the oil pump problem, but I am pretty sure I saw a post where a conversion in the wiring harness was needed and I am also pretty sure I saw a post where the PCM was different for 1998 than the 1999+ motors...

LS1W66

The `98 PCM is different but it doesn't matter because you are reusing your old harness and sensors on the new engine.
As for the LS6 engine I'll send you a PM with the link but it's now over $3,500
Still a good price for it though.

vader99

iTrader: (4)

I would buy the newer ls1 engine (like an '04). Just swap over the topend stuff that you want from the old engine and the rest should be the same. I don't see why you couldn't use your 98 pcm tune as well.

Beau@SDPC

iTrader: (14)

FTR It's Scoggin Dickey. Lol. We have a good price on alot of LS engines.
01 LS1 engine....3466.00 plus shipping, but you dont have to pay sales tax for out of state sale. comes with a 3yr 100k mile GM wnty.
02 LS6 engine.....3750 same warranty, and i have all these in stock. (FROM VETTE) but i also have the CTSV engine as well....same price, same wnty in stock.

i have plenty more where those came from

Mssingkid

iTrader: (7)

You won't have an issue using a 98PCM, just have to swap some sensors. Coolant temp sensor, and few others are special to 98's.

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

you could try to fit a crate 572 big block in there.... that comes with a warranty too!!

blue98Z

iTrader: (29)

FWIW, I have a 98 car with an engine from a 2000. No problems whatsoever. If you can get a newer engine for less then do it. As far as your PCM goes, just use your intake on it and you can retain the emissions without a problem and not have to fool with the PCM. The only thing extra you'll have to buy would be valve covers and coil brackets for the 99 up engines and you'll need to swap your injectors if you get a 99-00 cause they use 26lb injectors where the 98's & 01-02 use 28.8lb injectors(not sure on 03 up). These will interchange.You can get your valve covers and coil brackets with coils on ebay for cheap.

gun5l1ng3r

Thanks to all of you for the help, but in the interest of time, as this is my only school transportation, I need to get pretty much everything local and trying to get a newer intake or having warranty work done when bought from an out of state dealer might present problems in the future.

If this was a project car (which it will become after I am done with grad school, 2 1/2 more years) I could take my time and gather all the parts from across the country.

I have to order it tomorrow and get it back in with in the next week and a half. Since it has the warranty, I am not going to worry about the oil pump and concentrate on school.

The only other question I have, is will the relearn mode on my PCM, after I hook it all back up, create an A/F ratio that might wash the rings, or is this only a factor when changing the airflow properties by huge amounts(i.e. heads and cam)?

A BIG thanks again to all those who offered their ideas and support! I don't know what I would do with out the LS1Tech community... I would probably have to do something drastic like have a mechanic do it!!

got-a-ls1

iTrader: (12)

the stock computer will be fine and wont wash the rings... if you leave the battery unhooked the computer will be forced to run off of base tables and learn as it goes. im guessing this is just how it happens when it leaves the factory floor also... just do a proper breakin.

to be 100% sure check with your dealer though...