Blown headgasket. Going to replace both sides, have heard pulling (well dropping Kmember) is easiest way to go for this job (have access to lift) Is This True..... Also, should I get new head bolts? Or anything else. Some general info about dropping the Kmember w/tranny intact would be much appreciated. This intimidates me... seems like a big job
Thanks

 

I have only pulled the engine from the bottom so i can't say if it was easier than the top, but it was nowhere near as hard as i thought. I thought it was easy from the bottom. I also had to use a cherry picker to lift the car where as you have a lift! I would deff vote to go out the bottom. You can take the trans, headers, intake, etc. right down with it.

The head bolts are one time use only becaus ethey strech so you have to get new bolts

 

Thanks man, this is a dumb question but what did you have the motor resting on, how high was it, all I can think of is putting it on some 2x4's?? The car has almost 120k on it, are new pushrods a must too??

 

Well if you have an aftermarket cam and valvsprings i would say do pushrods, but if you have the stock stuff (then as long as they all are straight) new pushrods are not neccessary.

And i acually built a dolly for my engine out of 2x4's plywood and 4 wheels...i'll look for a pic now

 

Cool thanks...
Was just wondering (i know, full of questions) My oil was quite milky, so I'm sure there was alot of water mixed somehow.... gonna get heads milled but is there anything else I should worry about other than the actual head gaskets

 

Thats right after got it out. Dont mind the mess or how dirty everything is...

 

If the oil looked like butterscotch pudding then that is coolant in the oil....which if you had a blown head gasket makes sense. And check out ls1howto.com they have alot of nice write ups

 

One more question man, as far as disconnecting the steering goes, do I just unhook it at the knuckle/joint, is that the hardest part?
btw, looks good... ingenuity at work, I like it
Thanks again for the help

 

there are 2 bolts. one connecting it to the rack and the other up to the "colum" i guess i would call it. Here's a good link with eveything you need to know about pulling it from the bottom. it looks like alot but it goes fast. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls1-fbody.html

 

This is going back in, but it is pretty simple. I didn't have a lift, so I raised the car up. Slid the motor under. Then sat the car back down on the jack stands. I used my cherry picker to lift the motor back up to the frame, with a floor jack under the tranny and motor to help guide it. Did it by myself and it only took a couple hours. With a lift, it should be a lot easier.

 

Thanks guys

 

You dont' have to pull the motor to replace headgaskets.
It all can be done while it is still in the car.

 

Yeah, what he said. No need to pull the motor. Upgrade to ARP headbolts. Just torque to spec and go. Plus they are reusable.

 

if you do pull the motor, do yourself a favor and dont spin the steering wheel. Lets just say someone said the accidently over spun the steering wheel when the knuckle and such was disconnected, and the air bag wires inside snapped...DAMN IT!

 

Ouch....
But wouldn't it be easier to just pull it or no?
I work pretty slow, like jerry's kid slow...

 

That sucks!! Before you start anything make sure to lock the steering wheel in place.

 

Erik, quit asking so many questions... just buy the damn head gaskets (you know you need them) and bolts, and let's do this thing.

 

Getrdone

 

I did a head/cam swap, spun a bearing during beak-in and had to pull the motor. I pulled the motor and never want to do it again. It's not bad pulling the heads while in the car. If you do pull the motor I would consider rebuilding the bottom end depending on how miles are on it.

 

unless you have head studs, it's easier to just take the heads off without dropping the engine. i did it in a matter of a few hours with limited tools.