cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

I replaced my head gaskets, while doing so I swap'd in a cam.

ended up ******* up the threads in my crank... long story.

so, I got the new bolt in.. and it had tension the whole way down. BUT its in there.. and isnt going to come out.

everything is fine and the car runs great.. question is.. when its time to rebuild, what am I going to do to do about the crank threads.. I really dont want to buy a new crank and have to have the whole damn assembly balanced... I know its a 16mmx2.0 thread.. has anyone had luck chasing these issues out?

I doubt the threads are that fucked up.. probably just need to be chased.

anyone had luck doing this?

conan

iTrader: (5)

I had a "BUDDY" (yes I still call him a friend) stick a puller in my crank, wrecked the threads in my brand new forged SB about a year ago. This summer I pulled the engine again... and tore it down to a bare block. My grandfather was a machinist and kept a mill and lathe when he closed his machine shop. So he drilled the front of my crank and retaped 3/4" fine threads with the lathe. He also did it the way GM had done it, where the threads dont start untill a inch in the snout. He took out as little materal as possible to keep the strenth of the snout. Now I have 3/4 inch grade 8 bolt and torqued to 180 feet #.

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

thought that maybe and option.

so I guess probably just drill to 17mm, then tap to 2.0 and fine a bolt and flat cut washer? sound like a plan?

conan

iTrader: (5)

Ya I have a flat washer in there. Also check tap sizes because the next step up in tap availability was a standard pitch 3/4 inch. Thats why I chose to go standard to keep as mutch materal inn the snout. I am also supercharged so thats why snout strength was a bigger issue for me.

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

ahhh I see... I aint really worried about the snout on this thing.. they have to much metal to begin with.. I just dont want to have to **** the threads harder everytime I pull the cam...

in other words this next build I want a swap to take 2 hours and not 3. you know?

want every bolt to at least thread correctly.

conan

iTrader: (5)

I hear you thats why I said F-it and pulled the moter back out. I was so pissed my brand new motor had that stupid problem. Now I sleep better at night

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

exactly... and yea I let me 'buddy' install the balancer... not to hard a job I didnt think lo

I was ******* dead wrong

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

Is there an aftermarket crankbolt for these motors?

cellulis44

iTrader: (11)

yea arp

conan

iTrader: (5)

When I first dynoed the car I was living in park city and the car was in pittsburgh, the seal pushed out of the timing cover and shot 5qts of oil all through my engine bay. I was leaving the next day so he offered to clean the oil mess up untill I could get back to fix it. When I got back a month later he had taken all the front acc off so I could replace the seal. To my suprise when I was putting every thing back together the pully bolt would not even start in the crank. So after chasing it with a tap it was still eating bolts and I didn't dare torque to 240 ft#'s. I know now why I used to never let any one else touch my car, so I broke my own rule and got burned. The only good that came out of it was I added a remote bleeder to the slave cylinder and my clutch is so much nicer now. Good luck with the fix in the future.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Are you guys all following the methods of LS1howto.com? For this part of the work, that web site is dead wrong and has resulted in a lot of guys messing up the crank threads.

JFM-jr

iTrader: (23)

618 Hawk sells this tool above in the tools section for 45 bucks. Seems like a good way to avoid problems.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Nice looking tool

W es 6

iTrader: (1)

I just got done snapping my crank bolt last weekend by listening to ls1howto.com... Long story short, I ended up tapping the crank snout to 3/4", fine threads. Then I used an installation tool by Comp much like ^^^^^^ and it's amazing what using the right tool for the job can do! It's now held on with a Grade 8 bolt torqued to 180 ft/lbs.