View Poll Results: What do you think I should do?
Keep using same oil (mobile 1 5w-30)
11
39.29%
Switch to GC 0w-30
12
42.86%
Switch to Royal Purple 5w-30
5
17.86%
Voters: 28. You may not vote on this poll
Thinking about switching to a different oil in the 408
03-01-2009, 09:38 AM
#21
with a non factory motor, you need to know bearing clearances before you start switching oils, IMO.
ill never put 5w30 in my ls1. i never used it in my factory 6.0. too thin, IMO.
lot of folks use it, but that stuff is pee water after heavy driving.
ill never put 5w30 in my ls1. i never used it in my factory 6.0. too thin, IMO.
lot of folks use it, but that stuff is pee water after heavy driving.
03-01-2009, 11:05 AM
#22
The proper balance is as thin as possible, but still adequately protecting the engine.
03-01-2009, 11:57 AM
#25
What quantitative data makes you think this and what specific 5w-30 are you referring? Every brand/type 5w-30 oils falls differently in the 30 wt viscosity range depending on the formulation.
The proper balance is as thin as possible, but still adequately protecting the engine.
The proper balance is as thin as possible, but still adequately protecting the engine.
after a weekend of 17 track passes bracket racing, that stuff is like water pouring out.
never done a test, just going by the eye meter.
03-01-2009, 02:25 PM
#27
This is where the internet and people with lots of free time start to over analyze. Your most likely not going to see a change in anything switching to any oil over another, thats the same weight. Now a good filter migh be worth talking about until someone buys them and tears them apart to see whats really inside.
Seriously, just run whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy. If I filled up your favorite bottles of oil with Walmart synthetic, you would never know!
Seriously, just run whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy. If I filled up your favorite bottles of oil with Walmart synthetic, you would never know!
03-01-2009, 05:22 PM
#28
Of the oils listed, GC 0W-30 is the highest viscosity. Better check the 100 degrees C values, you will see this. Putting in a 10W-30 doesn't mean diddly. German Castrol is 11.7 CsT and is close to a 40W, where as the others are around 10 Cst, closer to a 20W at temperature. This includes Mobil-1.
03-01-2009, 05:52 PM
#30
Of the oils listed, GC 0W-30 is the highest viscosity. Better check the 100 degrees C values, you will see this. Putting in a 10W-30 doesn't mean diddly. German Castrol is 11.7 CsT and is close to a 40W, where as the others are around 10 Cst, closer to a 20W at temperature. This includes Mobil-1.
friend of mine that runs 2 bracket classes each week and sometimes 2 tracks per weekend, runs 20w50.
any of you serious autocorss or road race guys run light oil?
03-01-2009, 06:07 PM
#31
I run 3-4 HPDE's (8 open track days) a year with Pennzoil Platinum 10w-30. Max oil temps in the 280 - 285 range for 30 minutes at a time. According to my Dyson UOA's, the oil has had no problems protecting the engine.
I've used Redline 10w-40 under these same conditions and wear was worse than PP 10w-30. It was close between Redline 10w-30 and PP 10w-30, but PP performed better. Redline 10w-40 is too thick for all but the loosest clearance LSx engine. I'm not using an oil cooler, no need, and I use Amsoil EaO32 oil filters.
I've used Redline 10w-40 under these same conditions and wear was worse than PP 10w-30. It was close between Redline 10w-30 and PP 10w-30, but PP performed better. Redline 10w-40 is too thick for all but the loosest clearance LSx engine. I'm not using an oil cooler, no need, and I use Amsoil EaO32 oil filters.
03-01-2009, 06:20 PM
#32
buddy of mine bought it from me and ran it. he ended up melting a piston, and popping the top off another and both the main and rod bearings look like new.
when you say the redline and PP 30wt were close, how do you decipher the test in laymans terms?
thanks.
03-01-2009, 09:20 PM
#34
the advertising companies do is all hype to me. no truth.
the castrol syntec with the dodges on the dyno come to mine. even the shell commericals are comical to me. no truth in that.
03-01-2009, 09:37 PM
#35
i know those tests are done, and are accurate. but what is a real life milage difference if you ran 2 exact engines the same way with two different oils?
the advertising companies do is all hype to me. no truth.
the castrol syntec with the dodges on the dyno come to mine. even the shell commericals are comical to me. no truth in that.
the advertising companies do is all hype to me. no truth.
the castrol syntec with the dodges on the dyno come to mine. even the shell commericals are comical to me. no truth in that.
I'm only interested in the best combination of products that keeps wear in check. To get there, I've used one of the best tribologists in the industry to perform used oil analysis and develop a regimen to keep the engine in good condition as long as possible. Doing this, I have used many different combinations of oil/filters to arrive at what works.
The statements I've made are based on my last 6 years of used oil analysis with Terry Dyson. I don't know why I even try to help anyone, they would rather believe marketing hype and opinions with no quantitative data or quantifiable proof to support them.
The way an oil drains during an oil change, it's color, etcetera does not offer any insight into the protection it provides.
Last edited by 405HP_Z06; 03-01-2009 at 09:45 PM.
03-02-2009, 12:11 PM
#40
Former Vendor
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have used Motul in a lot of import applications and it seems to be very popular.
I agree with running 20W50, personally I like to Brad Penn due to the zinc content it seems to give better wear protection.
On a side note, I would refrain from switching between synthetic and non-synthetic oils. I am not 100% sure of the reasoning but a friend of mine that is a retired GM engineer indicated to me that he had seen this cause failures. I understand that it should be broken in on conventional oil, but I think this was more of a high mileage switch that he was seeing the issues with.
Oliver
On a side note, I would refrain from switching between synthetic and non-synthetic oils. I am not 100% sure of the reasoning but a friend of mine that is a retired GM engineer indicated to me that he had seen this cause failures. I understand that it should be broken in on conventional oil, but I think this was more of a high mileage switch that he was seeing the issues with.
Oliver