Katech or ARP rod bolts?
I had ARP's.. Ran it for about 40 passes with the cam only shifting at 7400.
When I tore it down the bearings didnt have a single scuff.
When changing bolts, the key is to disturb the bearing as little as possible and make sure everything is ULTRA CLEAN.
Katech does not say to resize the big end of the rod. ARP says to resize, however its a CYA thing, and not nearly as needed with a cracked cap rod that hasnt had the cap removed after initial install.
When I tore it down the bearings didnt have a single scuff.
When changing bolts, the key is to disturb the bearing as little as possible and make sure everything is ULTRA CLEAN.
Katech does not say to resize the big end of the rod. ARP says to resize, however its a CYA thing, and not nearly as needed with a cracked cap rod that hasnt had the cap removed after initial install.
This is a very contraversial subject and there are varying opinions. The ARP's ARE bigger AND heavier than stock. Katech 's are NEARLY identical in size znd weight and I BELIEVE desingned to be a direct drop in. Even ARP says on their instalation literature that you are SUPPOSED to get your rods resized with their bolts I would assume from different clamping pressure.
The reality is I think it is a crapshoot. Some guys on here have done countless 7k passes on ARP's no problem and some have trashed their motors within a few thousand miles. If it were a rebuild I would save the $$ and go ARP everytime but just swapping them out one at a time on a stock bottom I would go Katech and pay the $100 of insurance.
The reality is I think it is a crapshoot. Some guys on here have done countless 7k passes on ARP's no problem and some have trashed their motors within a few thousand miles. If it were a rebuild I would save the $$ and go ARP everytime but just swapping them out one at a time on a stock bottom I would go Katech and pay the $100 of insurance.
Ok so after reading this post I've come to this conclusion-one of two things is correct. One party or the other is lying about the ARP bolts needing work done to fit correctly, or both opposing parties are correct and the ARP bolts are poorly designed and some will fit while others won't.
I think I'll go with katechs since there is no clear defined answer for the ARP's. I'd rather be sure than to guess.
I think I'll go with katechs since there is no clear defined answer for the ARP's. I'd rather be sure than to guess.
Ok so after reading this post I've come to this conclusion-one of two things is correct. One party or the other is lying about the ARP bolts needing work done to fit correctly, or both opposing parties are correct and the ARP bolts are poorly designed and some will fit while others won't.
I think I'll go with katechs since there is no clear defined answer for the ARP's. I'd rather be sure than to guess.
I think I'll go with katechs since there is no clear defined answer for the ARP's. I'd rather be sure than to guess.
Both are great products. ARP's are fine. Save yourself $100. ARP has to tell you to resize the big end of the rods just to cover their a$$. Just check the ID for roundness after the bolts are torqued down. You'll be just as happy if you had the Katechs but with an extra $100 in your pocket.
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Verdad Gallardo Ok now the question is get the regular ones or the "pro" ARP's? Here's the regular ones:
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=94
And the pro:
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=95
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=94
And the pro:
http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp?itemid=95
I did search.
First off, where do you buy Katech bolts? I found them on their site but $200 for bolts seems a little steep, is there a cheaper place? Expecially when ARP's are $100. I saw a little bit of info on ARP bolts saying that they need modification, is that true? Why does everyone seem to prefer Katechs over ARP? Thanks.
First off, where do you buy Katech bolts? I found them on their site but $200 for bolts seems a little steep, is there a cheaper place? Expecially when ARP's are $100. I saw a little bit of info on ARP bolts saying that they need modification, is that true? Why does everyone seem to prefer Katechs over ARP? Thanks.
Here are some facts to help you make your decision.
ARP 8740 chrome-moly rod bolts - 180,000-210,000psi tensile strength
ARP Pro2000 high performance alloy rod bolts - 220,000psi tensile strength
Katech Performance H-11 tool steel rod bolts - 260,000psi tensile strength
(ours fit all LS engines including LS7)
These bolts are made exclusively for Katech by A1 Technologies, a leading motorsports and aerospace supplier. http://www.a1technologies.com/
.
but i am sure in true ls1 tech fashion that if katecks cost more THEY MUST BE BETTER
and you should buy 2 sets and put the ones in than shine in the sunlight more becasue they are prob lighter and closer to stock wt and put a set of arp bolts in the bottem of the oil pan becasue the steel they use will mix with the oil and make youre engine last longer because it will bind to the crank and bearings and hold up better to abuse
yes i am being a dick arp are direct bolt in as wel as the katecks. as wellas stockers will take 7k beatings also unless it is a 00 or older then they need to be changed otherwise just spending money to help the economy
cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
and you should buy 2 sets and put the ones in than shine in the sunlight more becasue they are prob lighter and closer to stock wt and put a set of arp bolts in the bottem of the oil pan becasue the steel they use will mix with the oil and make youre engine last longer because it will bind to the crank and bearings and hold up better to abuse
yes i am being a dick arp are direct bolt in as wel as the katecks. as wellas stockers will take 7k beatings also unless it is a 00 or older then they need to be changed otherwise just spending money to help the economy
cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
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but i am sure in true ls1 tech fashion that if katecks cost more THEY MUST BE BETTER
and you should buy 2 sets and put the ones in than shine in the sunlight more becasue they are prob lighter and closer to stock wt and put a set of arp bolts in the bottem of the oil pan becasue the steel they use will mix with the oil and make youre engine last longer because it will bind to the crank and bearings and hold up better to abuse
yes i am being a dick arp are direct bolt in as wel as the katecks. as wellas stockers will take 7k beatings also unless it is a 00 or older then they need to be changed otherwise just spending money to help the economy
cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
and you should buy 2 sets and put the ones in than shine in the sunlight more becasue they are prob lighter and closer to stock wt and put a set of arp bolts in the bottem of the oil pan becasue the steel they use will mix with the oil and make youre engine last longer because it will bind to the crank and bearings and hold up better to abuse
yes i am being a dick arp are direct bolt in as wel as the katecks. as wellas stockers will take 7k beatings also unless it is a 00 or older then they need to be changed otherwise just spending money to help the economy
cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
This is a very contraversial subject and there are varying opinions. The ARP's ARE bigger AND heavier than stock. Katech 's are NEARLY identical in size znd weight and I BELIEVE desingned to be a direct drop in. Even ARP says on their instalation literature that you are SUPPOSED to get your rods resized with their bolts I would assume from different clamping pressure.
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Largest Stocking Distributor of LS-x Engines / CHECK OUT OUR NEW WEBSITE!
COMP - FAST - PACESETTER - DIAMOND RACING - EAGLE SPECIALTY PRODUCTS - CALLIES - COMETIC GASKETS
RAM CLUTCHES - MOSER ENGINEERING - KOOK'S HEADERS - ARP - GM BOLTS AND GASKETS - MSD - NGK
POWERBOND - ASP - AND MORE!
and how does piston slap have anything to do with rod bolts?????but you call me a moron i guess but what i can see you are a jack ***
also like i said so if stock gm bolts and the 2000 and older dont matter because we all know the rod bolts were junk before the 2k ls engines
cant fix stiupid right?
all i can say is i spun to 7400 with stock rod bolts with a 04 ls6 and then went to arp 2000 bolts just because i felt like it.
and i pulled each bearing cap and they all look like new.
so if the stockers will take it and the arp's are better for a 100 bucks why spend 200 on katech's unles you plan on turning 8k dont worry about it but i am sure camaro fan 71 still has his limiter set at 6200
I might not be a engineer but i build my own engines and trans and that is more than any engineer i have ever met has ever done
plus i know that piston slap has nothing to do with rod bolts
be he dont because he prob read somewhere that would make a diff but he really has no clue what makes his engine work i would explain more if i thought he would learn i feel it is a lost cause .
he thinks he knows everything already but in reallitry he knows nothing
but i know stock rod bolts will take 7400 a lot of times because i have done it that many times
Last edited by quick346; Mar 6, 2009 at 09:08 PM.
also one last point arp says to resize is going back to the old school rod not a cracked cap rod.
the cracked cap rod locates itself wher as the old school rods were located by the bolt or stud in that case
the cracked cap rod locates itself wher as the old school rods were located by the bolt or stud in that case
this is what makes me laugh. all the guys whinning and crying about arps are turning like 6k once a month
but when paeple like me and texas speed that push these engines to the limits no one wants to hear it
because they are so afraid of spending a 100 less because so ans so said so
like they say cant fix stupid.
also has 4:30 gears with a 5000 stahl edge converter and my shift points are 7400 any more ?'s meentss02 i will be glad to answer them
tq them and then loosen for a total of 3 times
the instructions are in the back of the package with the moly lube.
just make sure you use a good tq wrench sk or snap on