Katech or ARP rod bolts?
03-07-2009, 07:42 PM
#42
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Next time you send someone a message like this in a PM...... You might want to PROOFREAD it before you hit send. You're this worlds best example of a ******* wasted ******* you retarded, inbred dipshit.
03-08-2009, 04:46 AM
#43
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my ARP´s went right in, no mods what so ever... you eother use a stretch gauge which is whar arp recomends as no. 1, or torque to 45 and loosen twice and torque to 45 thidr and final time...
and the people saying that katechs are better... have you tried both and have had more faliures with ARP´s or are you just talking out of your ***???
and the people saying that katechs are better... have you tried both and have had more faliures with ARP´s or are you just talking out of your ***???
03-08-2009, 10:30 AM
#46
03-08-2009, 01:40 PM
#48
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You're not likely going to find them cheaper. Due to the high cost from our supplier there is not much room for discounting these. We've had to raise the price over the years due to price increases from our supplier.
They are back in stock as of today.
Here are some facts to help you make your decision.
ARP 8740 chrome-moly rod bolts - 180,000-210,000psi tensile strength
ARP Pro2000 high performance alloy rod bolts - 220,000psi tensile strength
Katech Performance H-11 tool steel rod bolts - 260,000psi tensile strength
(ours fit all LS engines including LS7)
These bolts are made exclusively for Katech by A1 Technologies, a leading motorsports and aerospace supplier. http://www.a1technologies.com/
.
They are back in stock as of today.
Here are some facts to help you make your decision.
ARP 8740 chrome-moly rod bolts - 180,000-210,000psi tensile strength
ARP Pro2000 high performance alloy rod bolts - 220,000psi tensile strength
Katech Performance H-11 tool steel rod bolts - 260,000psi tensile strength
(ours fit all LS engines including LS7)
These bolts are made exclusively for Katech by A1 Technologies, a leading motorsports and aerospace supplier. http://www.a1technologies.com/
.
(next time i take mine appart it will be to install a different rotatong assy.. and your tool steel bolts will be included)
03-08-2009, 02:57 PM
#49
Nice post by the way... my rant wasnt directed at you guys... im just fed up with internet engineers who has never turned a wrench let alone have had enough aftermarket rod bolt faliures to compare two brands... im sticking below 7k and hoping my ARP´s wont snap..
(next time i take mine appart it will be to install a different rotatong assy.. and your tool steel bolts will be included)
(next time i take mine appart it will be to install a different rotatong assy.. and your tool steel bolts will be included)
03-08-2009, 03:03 PM
#50
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the reason that people are saying that the ARP rod bolts need modification is because they recommend that the rods be bored after they are installed. i dont think you can really go wrong with ether set.
03-09-2009, 06:28 AM
#51
I contacted your company about purchasing a set of these bolts back in late March 2007. You did not have them in stock, and could not give me an answer as to when they would be back in stock. I called 3 months later and again, same thing. I gave up after searching on here and finding out my experience was the norm. I contacted a couple of local LS1 oriented speed shops and they said NOBODY had ever run those bolts because for all intents and purposes, they didn't exist. My coworker called you for his build back in early 2008 and found the same thing - not in stock.
The first time I called your company some secretary or receptionist put me on hold for over 20 minutes before I hung up, and called back. I again got put on hold for over 5 minutes before I hung up again. I called a third time and explained to the receptionist that I had been put on hold twice, and that nobody had answered. She said the "guys must be at lunch", at 3pm EST
She took my info and promised that I would receive a call later that day. Guess what didn't happen? I called back AGAIN the next day and finally spoke to someone, who told me that the bolts were not in stock, and they couldn't tell me when they would be back in stock.
The first time I called your company some secretary or receptionist put me on hold for over 20 minutes before I hung up, and called back. I again got put on hold for over 5 minutes before I hung up again. I called a third time and explained to the receptionist that I had been put on hold twice, and that nobody had answered. She said the "guys must be at lunch", at 3pm EST
She took my info and promised that I would receive a call later that day. Guess what didn't happen? I called back AGAIN the next day and finally spoke to someone, who told me that the bolts were not in stock, and they couldn't tell me when they would be back in stock.
03-09-2009, 02:27 PM
#52
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05-02-2009, 10:15 PM
#55
umm i found a set of katechs (recently maybe a few weeks ago) and there in my stock 02 short block ..
i used them for the peace of mind that i wouldnt spin a bearing due to rod bolt out of roundness ..on my built forged ls1 short block i ran arp because all the rods had been checkd and resized and in fact 2 of the were distorted by the arps.. but every thing got machined and asembled so no biggie .
in my opinion .. if ur getting a short block built go with the arps .. everything will be machined and checked and be all up to spec .. if ur just bolting on a set then run katech which wont need machining and plus whats and extra 100 $ for out hobbies anyways! ..
fyi ive ran both motors my stock h/c/i torquer v3 motor 7200 (katech)and my nitrous built 347 h/c/i ms4 motor to 7300 (arp) ...both are fine !
so use wich ever one .. better than stock either way
ha ha or better yet buy both sets .. and install 4 rods with arp and 4 with katechs .. spind the **** out of it and let us knw wich one spins the bearigns first ...
altought it might trow off the internal balance of the motors due to slight difference in weight ..
who knws !!! but either way if ur stock DONT SPIN THEM SOOOO HIGH!! no need at all if u aint gona make power at that rom and risk of damaging internals !! if u want rpm buy a bike , a highe reving all motor honda or better yet a turbo rotary !! lol ..
just my .02 cents...
i used them for the peace of mind that i wouldnt spin a bearing due to rod bolt out of roundness ..on my built forged ls1 short block i ran arp because all the rods had been checkd and resized and in fact 2 of the were distorted by the arps.. but every thing got machined and asembled so no biggie .
in my opinion .. if ur getting a short block built go with the arps .. everything will be machined and checked and be all up to spec .. if ur just bolting on a set then run katech which wont need machining and plus whats and extra 100 $ for out hobbies anyways! ..
fyi ive ran both motors my stock h/c/i torquer v3 motor 7200 (katech)and my nitrous built 347 h/c/i ms4 motor to 7300 (arp) ...both are fine !
so use wich ever one .. better than stock either way
ha ha or better yet buy both sets .. and install 4 rods with arp and 4 with katechs .. spind the **** out of it and let us knw wich one spins the bearigns first ...
altought it might trow off the internal balance of the motors due to slight difference in weight ..
who knws !!! but either way if ur stock DONT SPIN THEM SOOOO HIGH!! no need at all if u aint gona make power at that rom and risk of damaging internals !! if u want rpm buy a bike , a highe reving all motor honda or better yet a turbo rotary !! lol ..
just my .02 cents...
