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Katech or ARP rod bolts?

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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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Question Katech or ARP rod bolts?

I did search.

First off, where do you buy Katech bolts? I found them on their site but $200 for bolts seems a little steep, is there a cheaper place? Expecially when ARP's are $100. I saw a little bit of info on ARP bolts saying that they need modification, is that true? Why does everyone seem to prefer Katechs over ARP? Thanks.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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Katechs are really good rod bolts. They have a proven track record. For that matter so does ARP. Do not skimp on rod bolts. The extra $100 will be worth it if you are spinning it past 7000 rpm.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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I'll spin it to about 7K after the bolts, but it's still a stock bottom end. I know they are both really good brands, i'm just curious why everyone buys Katech over ARP even though they are 100 more. They're both good right...?
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 09:10 PM
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i didnt even know katech made rod bolts most everyone here use ARP go with those
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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So do the ARP's really require modification to work with stock rods?
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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they do and I was goin to order when they had a sale last week but they are on backorder.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:27 PM
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You need a stretch gauge for the ARP's, as well as some extra machining I believe. With the Katech, remove the ferrules (if your car has them) and torque them to spec, done deal. For what it's worth, I'm putting the Katech's in my daily driver.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:29 PM
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What modification does the arps need for stock rods? I'm fixing to order some.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:33 PM
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my arp rod bolts didn't need modification to fit..i had some in my car and they bolted right in however i have heard some people say they were a lil wider then the stock bolts were
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:34 PM
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yes, katechs are a direct bolt in. and arp requires modifications. im not 100% sure so im not gonna speculate, but my vote is for katechs. i was gonna get those when i was about to rebuild my engine, but decided not to rebuild. when i do, its katech all the way.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 10:54 PM
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I have spun my stock short block to the limiter at 7450 a hundred times but i did last winter put in arp's

they say to tq them 3 times to 43 ft lbs and that is it

and i have spun it to 7300 a hundred times since and prob 6 times to the 6450 limiter

not looking to get flamed just this is what i have done.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 11:02 PM
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but i am sure in true ls1 tech fashion that if katecks cost more THEY MUST BE BETTER

and you should buy 2 sets and put the ones in than shine in the sunlight more becasue they are prob lighter and closer to stock wt and put a set of arp bolts in the bottem of the oil pan becasue the steel they use will mix with the oil and make youre engine last longer because it will bind to the crank and bearings and hold up better to abuse

yes i am being a dick arp are direct bolt in as wel as the katecks. as wellas stockers will take 7k beatings also unless it is a 00 or older then they need to be changed otherwise just spending money to help the economy

cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by quick346
but i am sure in true ls1 tech fashion that if katecks cost more THEY MUST BE BETTER

and you should buy 2 sets and put the ones in than shine in the sunlight more becasue they are prob lighter and closer to stock wt and put a set of arp bolts in the bottem of the oil pan becasue the steel they use will mix with the oil and make youre engine last longer because it will bind to the crank and bearings and hold up better to abuse

yes i am being a dick arp are direct bolt in as wel as the katecks. as wellas stockers will take 7k beatings also unless it is a 00 or older then they need to be changed otherwise just spending money to help the economy

cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
If you run the ARP ones straight, you run the risk of the bore not being totally round. While it probably is a small risk, the fact is that Katechs were designed from the ground up to be a direct replacement. Since it seems you have some respect for engineering things right, take into account that the people at Katech did SOME research into the matter!
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by quick346
cracks me up that so many not turning even 7k rpms are so worried when gm already spent millions to engineer the stockers
My fellow 98' LS1 owners will disagree with that.
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerShift408
My fellow 98' LS1 owners will disagree with that.
pre 2000.5 and under agree with that
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 12:01 AM
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i went with the arp pro series rod bolts everythings fine here! rev limiter set to 7200rpms
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 12:45 AM
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o2 ls6 here, arp bolted right up. ARP everything.

If stock was good enough, we wouldn't do anything to our motors now would we?????

Last edited by Moneyshott; Mar 4, 2009 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 05:44 AM
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The Katechs are better.period
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 06:51 AM
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My arp's were a direct bolt it. Had the car to 7200 every run down the track.
never had any issues.
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 07:05 AM
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Katech does not have a bolt making machine! They are made for them and they have to make money on the investment. That is why they are more money. ARP bolts do not need any modifications. Bolt them in and you are done. Due diligence is required before some of you post!!
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