Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Mike, I paged you with the number to the shop. Call me back if you need some more help. The threads on the stock crank are M16x2.0. The standard Snap-On tap kit does not include this size, but you should be able to order it. Also, try a machine shop as they could possibly let you borrow it for the time being.

If the tap doesn't work, you may need to get a helicoil kit.

Jason

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It's not surprising that you damaged your crank if your willing to try to repair the damage you did using what you call the "IMPACT METHOD". There is a way to describe this type of damage control and the word "METHOD" is not part of it. This is the first time I've ever heard of this "IMPACT METHOD". An idea like that deserves to be kept a secret, a DEEP DARK SECRET. If I tried to make a repair in this fashion I sure wouldn't tell anyone about it. You can purchase the tool that JMX told you about or you can purchase a tap (Bottom tap NOT taper tap) either of which will be costly and there is no limit to the damage you could do with one of those in your hands. I don't know if you can buy a thread chaser that big, but that would be expensive too. I'd wish you Good Luck as some others here have done, but I'm afraid you need more than luck.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It's not surprising that you screwed up you crank threads if your willing to try and repair the damage you did using what you call the "IMPACT METHOD". I've never heard of the "IMPACT METHOD" before. An idea like that should be kept a secret, a DEEP DARK SECRET! You can use the idea JMX gave you or get a bottom tap or a thread chaser if they make one 16X2. The price isn't going to be cheap. There's no limit to the damage you can do with one of those tools in your hand. That longer bolt is starting to sound like more of a bargain at this point. I'd wish you GOOD LUCK as others have done here, but I think your going to need more than luck.

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I can't believe what I just read in this thread "Keep running bolts through till it's seated" Damn

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

I posted this thread to get feedback, advice and opinions on different ways to approach this problem. That was one idea that was an option to me. I don't know if you read the whole thread but in one of my post after that idea I wrote, "I'll do whatever I have to do to get it right and if you all say that tapping is the only way to go then I will do that." I'm pretty upset about the whole ordeal so anything that will fix it without me having to pull the engine sounds great to me at this point, realistic or not. I will not be attempting the impact method but thanks for the support otherwise.

WhiteRhino

iTrader: (6)

Its a 16mmx2.0 thread.You can buy a complete tap set from sears that size,but not the individual tap.I stripped my crank as well.I ended up helicoiling my crank.Ive had it off 2-3 times now with no problems.Also its almost impossible to find a helicoil kit that size.I got lucky and found a local shop where i live that carries them.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

if you cant find it locally, you can find the stuff you need here:

www.mcmastercarr.com

do a search for tap and helicoil...they offer both M16x2.0 taps and M16x2.0 helicoils...

SilverGhost

iTrader: (53)

hey, call my sledgehammer method whatever you want but it works just fine. I don't beat the hell out of it, just tap it on..sledgehammer just happens to be convienient for me or I'd just something smaller..the big head of the sledge is what makes it work so well since it hits the entire head of the bolt at once and not just half of it or the edge like a smaller hammer would.

T/A Medic

iTrader: (1)

ARP Crank Bolt... used it loved it u can thread it deep into the crank pushing the pulley on. Take the washer off it get it started more into the crank and seat the pulley... remove then use the washer.

Boosted LS1

Your dead right! This works because you are using a stud and this is why studs are preferred to bolts every time. The load/strain is at the nut end as opposed to being in the base metal.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I've never heard of the "IMPACT METHOD". An idea like that deserves to be kept a secret, a DEEP DARK SECRET! You can buy the tool JMX told you about or a bottom tap (not a taper tap) or a thread chaser if you can find one that big. Any of those tools are going to be expensive, but there is NO LIMIT to the damage you can do with that tool in your hand. I'd wish you GOOD LUCK as some others here have done, but I believe your going to need more that luck.

Boosted LS1

Either way, looks like you can get it sorted however you decide to do it even if you end up using helicoils. Good luck dude.

SStolen

iTrader: (22)

Well guys, turns out the crank wasn't cross-threaded after all. I guess it was just a little messy inside. I cleaned out the hole with a magnetic tool and got a new bolt. I put a little wheel bearing grease on the tip and slowly threaded it in. The pulley seated without much trouble at all and I got a new bolt and torqued it to spec. Thanks for all the help.

Tin Indian

What you folks really need is a LONGER CRANK BOLT:

The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Two washers stacked works better than just one.

VERY IMPORTANT: Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!

Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort.