0 oil pressure after start up
#1
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0 oil pressure after start up
I am pretty tired of messing with my car. I installed a MS4 cam, ported ls6 oil pump and double timing chain and upgraded the valve train. After the initial start up I got not oil pressure.
Thinking it was the Oil pressure sending unit I replaced that and still no pressure.
So I took the cover back off, replaced the oil pump O ring and tried again....no oil pressure
What can be the problem?
Thinking it was the Oil pressure sending unit I replaced that and still no pressure.
So I took the cover back off, replaced the oil pump O ring and tried again....no oil pressure
What can be the problem?
#2
Launching!
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Have you hooked up a mechanical gauge to the block to verify that you have zero psi? Also did you check the cam retainer plate gasket? its on the back of the retainer plate. If it is messed up I've seen that cause oil psi issues.
On a side note
I have a similar setup- TSP portted ls6 pump with the roll master double roller and I get 55psi at idle 78psi at WOT.
On a side note
I have a similar setup- TSP portted ls6 pump with the roll master double roller and I get 55psi at idle 78psi at WOT.
#4
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the retainer plate gasket looked fine when we installed the cam but if this was messed up would i still have 0 oil pressure im sure the new sending unit could be bad because auto parts store dont really care if **** hits the ground so the unit could be bad from the auto parts store right?, no i havent hooked up a mechanical gauge to the block but i took the valve cover off the driver side to see if there was any oil in the head after it idled for the recommended 3-5 secs to see if it gets oil pressure it had no oil in the head, the pickup tube was on when i tore it down the last time and i doubt it fell off.
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Are you sure you spun the engine over long enough to get oil pressure after you checked the O-ring? You have to spin it over for a pretty long time to see the gauge move if you have it disabled so it doesn't start.
#6
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i spun the engine over for about 10secs probly with the coil harness disconnected and the fuel pump relay out before we started it up do i need to do that longer i didnt do it any longer because i was scared with no oil circulating that i would mess bearings up
#7
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Yeah, you will have to spin it over longer than that to see the gauge move. As long as the engine isn't firing and there is some oil still on the bearings it shouldn't hurt it to spin it over with the starter. It probably took my engine 25 seconds to build up pressure the first time I spun it over. Not something you want to do often but I would rather spin it over with the starter till I saw oil pressure than start it up and wait to see oil pressure.
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#8
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Wow...I have been helping him with the cam swap and would have never thought it would take 25 secs to see oil pressure....anybody else see the same results?
Black01M6SS...your sig explains how we felt after the took everything apart and now have to do it for the 3rd time....unless we turn it over again as you recommended and its works....we will see
Black01M6SS...your sig explains how we felt after the took everything apart and now have to do it for the 3rd time....unless we turn it over again as you recommended and its works....we will see
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Yeah, I've been working on it for about 2 years now. Every time I think things are going well I'll run into another issue, get pissed off, and stop working on it for 3-4 months. It has been quite the project trying to do it out in the garage with hand tools. I really am about to the point where I never want to see the car again...
I really wish I would have just put a cam and nitrous in it and been happy with it.
I really wish I would have just put a cam and nitrous in it and been happy with it.
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I had this same problem when I built my motor thats in my car right now except I was gettin oil to the top of the motor unlike you, and it was my sending unit. I would say that if you prime your oil pump up and it still isnt gettin oil pressure to try your stock oil pump if you still have it just to see if that is where the problem is. Its alot of extra work but it might save you alot of money in the long run. Im runing the same oil pump as you and have not had any problems with it yet (knock on wood) but have heard of alot of people runnin into this same issue with it. Hope this helps and keep us posted!
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i called tsp where i got the pump from and talked to john and he said theyve never had a pump fail and that he is almost 100% certain that the double roller when i shimed it . it pinched the o ring so im going to try and prime the oil pump more tomm and if that doesnt work im going to tare it down again and pump a single roller on it so i run no chance of pinching the o ring.. keep it coming guys every little bit of into helps thanks
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The one thing that comes to my mind is, did you put the shim in right for the oil pump? The one with the hole it it. Is it on backwards?
I could not get oil preassure after building a motor and we took the front cover off the oil pump and packed it with assembly lube to create a suction action and that worked. The oil pump was dry from sitting a long lime. I even poured oil in it when built but it was about 3 months later before starting
just a thought!
I could not get oil preassure after building a motor and we took the front cover off the oil pump and packed it with assembly lube to create a suction action and that worked. The oil pump was dry from sitting a long lime. I even poured oil in it when built but it was about 3 months later before starting
just a thought!
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i had this problem once. the oil galley plug in the front of the motor had fell off somehow. And there was no pressure up top. I ruined all my cam bearings and the motor had to come out. I'm not saying thats your problem but check it out its the hole right next to the exit hole of the oil pump.
#14
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What was the condition of the other o-ring when you pulled it out?
Have you pulled the fuel pump fuse, and tried spinning the motor for about 30 seconds? It's not going to hurt anything. Thats how I always prime motors that I build before initial start up to make sure it's not dry fired.
Have you pulled the fuel pump fuse, and tried spinning the motor for about 30 seconds? It's not going to hurt anything. Thats how I always prime motors that I build before initial start up to make sure it's not dry fired.
#15
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Unhook the coils and hold it at WOT while you crank it...Don't worry about pulling the fuse.
Mine wouldn't make oil pressure either with a double roller and the stock pump...I changed to a single roller and a Melling pump and now it's awesome...I don't know which caused the issue though since I changed both at the same time.
Mine wouldn't make oil pressure either with a double roller and the stock pump...I changed to a single roller and a Melling pump and now it's awesome...I don't know which caused the issue though since I changed both at the same time.
#16
I'm new with LS1's, just a stang guy rebuilding my friend's vette motor....What's wrong with the double roller chain? This motor came with a double roller in it when ECS put a cam in so I was going to put it back in? Where's the oil pump shim? I don't remember seeing any when I pulled it apart.
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What was the condition of the other o-ring when you pulled it out?
Have you pulled the fuel pump fuse, and tried spinning the motor for about 30 seconds? It's not going to hurt anything. Thats how I always prime motors that I build before initial start up to make sure it's not dry fired.
Have you pulled the fuel pump fuse, and tried spinning the motor for about 30 seconds? It's not going to hurt anything. Thats how I always prime motors that I build before initial start up to make sure it's not dry fired.