faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

I have the stock ls1 with 144k miles on it in my 98 trans am. I am wanting to rebuild it and am very mechanically inclined but this will be my first rebuild. I can take it all apart and put it back together however i need ls1 specific tips.
My current engine has great compression, consumes less than a quart of oil between changes, and overall runs excellent. I am wanting to do heads and cam but i really dont feel comfortable doing it with these miles. Here are a few questions to start.
When i get the crank and pistons out what surfaces need machining? Can I just put in new rings, main bearings, and cam bearings in or do the surfaces the bearings sit in need machining? The cylinder walls?
Does the block need to be decked if it has never overheated and doesnt have any current head gasket issues?
Does my crank possibly need to be resurfaced? What should I look for?

I can get a good set of ported and polished 706 heads (stock valves & unmilled) and i plan on getting a cam that is a good match with the flow numbers on the heads.
What is the max lift i can have with these heads unmilled?

Is there any book that stands out more than others that would help me with this build?

Thanks in advance.

bonestock99

iTrader: (1)

If you are going to change pistons the cylinders would need to be honed, the block line honed, and the decks resurfaced. The connecting rods would also need to be resized, and at least polish the crank(If it measures ok). This is if you want to do it right. But if it were me wanting to rebuild then I would go with a forged rotating assy or stroker kit. I personally wouldnt waste my tine or money doing a stock type rebuild when the car runs perfect and has great compression! These engines are known to last well into the 250s so spend your money wisely, and if your going to do it, do it right the first time. Oh yeah, NEVER USE PLASTIGUAGE!!! Go big or go home. Peace out

DaveX

Tear it down and take the block, crank, and rods/pistons to a good machine shop. They will measure everything and tell you what needs to be done. Most likely all it will need is cylinder honing and new bearings & rings. Get them to install new cam bearings also. And if you want to go ahead and install better rod bolts, have them resize the rods with them installed.

crazymofo1986

iTrader: (3)

y no plastigauge?

bonestock99

iTrader: (1)

Because it sucks and it is not accurate. If you want an acurate measurement use a dial bore guage. Do it right the first time!

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

Resize the rods? I thought to replace the rod bolts all you had to do is remove the oil pan and swap them (no machining)? What needs to be resized on the rod?

With my oil pressure as stated above do you guys think I need to get a ported LS6 oil pump? When we did my friends cam and when we put his ported pump on his car it is equal to what mine is now.

DaveX

When you swap rod bolts and torque them back down, the rods will not necessarily be round (egg shaped). This is why I would never do them in the car. They need to be torqued the correct amount and then honed round again (the big end). If necessary they will grind a little off the rods and caps to obtain proper size and roundness. If you don't do this you run the risk of a spun bearing. Some get away with it, some don't. On a rebuild it should be standard procedure, especially with your miles.

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

Thank you. Thats the kind of advice I am looking for.

faster_n_you98

iTrader: (31)

any other tips?