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Cam suggestions - A4 Only (No Stall) Daily Driver

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Old 04-03-2009, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
224/228 .609/.588 113+4 LSA
custom, 0 * overlap, peak 6100 rpm
Hey Predator,
how does this idle w/0-overlap?
I'm M6 but wan't smooth idle & low end torque (heavy vert)
Old 04-03-2009, 08:50 AM
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my suggestion is a 3000 vigilante stall. drives just like stock until you hit the loud pedal

Then you cam it, and you get the unavoidable perma-grin.

Trust me, it's worth every penny. I will say i have gotten 5x the comments on my car since i cammed it, compared to before.
Old 04-03-2009, 09:29 AM
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just my 2 cents, i have the LS6 cam and wish i'd gone slightly bigger. yes i currently have a stock stall, eventually i'll get a 3k. my cam idles at 600 rpm and purrs as if its stock, because of the 117.5 lsa. i'm now thinking of a 224/228 565 lift on a 115 lsa. again just my 2 cent, im sure the TSP post is also a great choice. cheers! ps peak hp on the ls6 cam is 5750 rpm, of coarse it can rev higher than that.
Old 04-03-2009, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by TRANS-DAD
Hey Predator,
how does this idle w/0-overlap?
I'm M6 but wan't smooth idle & low end torque (heavy vert)
Idles smooth, good torque, but for M6 I would tighten the LSA

224/228 .609/.588 111+2 LSA
Old 04-03-2009, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Damian
I've done a 224/228 .XXX/.XXX 11X on a stock stall custom grind to my specs, and it drove great. The car picked up 60 rwhp with it and the tune.
This is what I was thinking originally... (HP gain wise)

It would be sweet to see 50-60 extra at the wheels after tune.

I like the idea of being cam only. (Plus intake/exhaust)

The extra heat in the trans from a stall, I could do without that. (I know, I know, B&M Trans cooler)
Old 04-03-2009, 10:43 AM
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I had a LPE GT2+3 cam when I had my stock stall and loved it. Ran mid to high 12's all day long with headers. Idled like it was bone stock.

Hard to beat for a stealth cam.
Old 04-03-2009, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Idles smooth, good torque, but for M6 I would tighten the LSA

224/228 .609/.588 111+2 LSA
Thanks for response!
Yeah I know I could tighten the LSA a little w/no prob.
being M6 but It's a weekend cruiser that I wanted to keep a smooth
idle & w/ more overlap will prob.= more raw fuel smell at stop light w/ top down=
Old 04-03-2009, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by TRANS-DAD
Thanks for response!
Yeah I know I could tighten the LSA a little w/no prob.
being M6 but It's a weekend cruiser that I wanted to keep a smooth
idle & w/ more overlap will prob.= more raw fuel smell at stop light w/ top down=
Then put 400cfm cats on and that will negate any fuel smell (with proper tune).
4* overlap does not make your eyes cry. I lost only 5rwhp with cats.

Otherwise yeah, the 113 will be a bit less noticeable but there nonetheless. Tune has a big effect, and can be tailored to minimize raw fuel. (better efficiency)
Old 04-03-2009, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Then put 400cfm cats on and that will negate any fuel smell (with proper tune).
4* overlap does not make your eyes cry. I lost only 5rwhp with cats.

Otherwise yeah, the 113 will be a bit less noticeable but there nonetheless. Tune has a big effect, and can be tailored to minimize raw fuel. (better efficiency)
OK thanks Mark for time and input , Gonna think on this one

OH and to OP - sorry for the high jack!!
Old 04-03-2009, 02:12 PM
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I once had a 01 Z/28 with heads, LS6 cam, a stock stall, stock exhaust, with 4:10's...It was a fun car to drive. Felt fast, idled perfect and passed smog with flying colors. And it still got 20/21 mpg on the freeway @65mph.
Old 04-03-2009, 03:22 PM
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I had a patriot 226 cam on stock stall with home ported heads by myself and it did 7.8X @ 93mph in the 1/8th with the stock 3.23 gear. It was fun to drive, cut better 60ft's with heads/cam than it did with bolt ons.
Old 04-03-2009, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by odarabla
This isn't true!! First off RPM doesn't affect the tranny as much as more torqe and higher fluid temps due to the stall and cam. Due to the stall slipping more than the stock stall it will have the tendency to heat the transmissions fluids up more (heat kills these transmissions). If you put a stall converter in your car (even on a stock motor car) and want your tranny to survive for any period of time I would recommend also installing a B&M tranny cooler and the Trans go Shift kit in the tranny.. Good luck..
well, maybe i'm wrong, but i hear a lot people saying to start saving for a built tranny once the cam goes in. If you look at the specs for the tranny and how much they are rated to handle(i can't find it and dont feel like looking), they are rated just above what a stock ls1 puts down for hp and right at the max rpm at what a stock car shifts at, if i remember correctly. There are a ton of cars out there running bigger stalls with no problem at all with the tranny. Then i hear them throwing a cam in, bumping up the rpm, and the internals just cant handle it and they let go. Sounds like the Op doesn't want a stall anyways, so whatever.. btw i'm on my third year of street/strip driving on my stalled, stock trans auto.
Old 04-03-2009, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by yyz28
I had a LPE GT2+3 cam when I had my stock stall and loved it. Ran mid to high 12's all day long with headers. Idled like it was bone stock.

Hard to beat for a stealth cam.
Don't really want a stealth cam.
I want something that sounds NASTY
Old 04-03-2009, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by b.lee
Don't really want a stealth cam.
I want something that sounds NASTY
Nasty lope means overlap. Overlap needs higher idle speed which will pull on the brakes hard with a stock stall. Not only is it bad, it can be dangerous as well.

From experience the right way to mod a auto is to stall first or along with a cam.
Old 04-03-2009, 06:53 PM
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I plan on running a 4,000 stall in my daily driven car. The biggest thing is keeping the tranny cool, and the fluids clean. I had almost 100k on a stock LT1 4L60e when I put a 3,200 stall in it ... I beat the **** out of that car, and it took another 23k of punishment before the tranny broke. It breaking was completely non-related to the converter.

Also if you want something that sounds mean, get a lower LSA cam, 110-111 range, hell even go lower if you want, and run a cutout if you don't want dumps. The idle will sound nasty. Like suggested higher idle is needed with more overlap, and a proper tune is a must.
Old 04-03-2009, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
224/228 .609/.588 113+4 LSA
custom, 0 * overlap, peak 6100 rpm
how much rwh better is that cam over this 224/228 581/588 113t4
Old 04-04-2009, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by shackattack37
how much rwh better is that cam over this 224/228 581/588 113t4
~5+ rwhp (due to added lift and lobe profile)
Old 04-06-2009, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
224/228 .609/.588 113+4 LSA
custom, 0 * overlap, peak 6100 rpm
What kind of #'s would this make over stock cam?
(with lid, LT's, 3" exhaust, tune)
Old 04-06-2009, 07:41 PM
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Properly installed and tuned that cam is good for 35>40rwhp
Old 04-07-2009, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Properly installed and tuned that cam is good for 35>40rwhp
And this would be an acceptable cam for a stock stall?


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